What Have You Done To Your Cobalt Today?
Found out that the people who sold me the car didn't keep their end of bargain. Rockers and part of underbody is rotted out. They just covered with hard rubber. Also found fuel leak coming from line near tank above the exhaust.
this will be fun.
this will be fun.
Slobodan Miloević
iTrader: (8)
Not today, but I swapped wheels and brakes for significantly lighter models, did some more generic weight reduction, and got the car aligned.
V10 r8 with just an exhaust. Ctsv is bolt on tune LSA car. Was hot as hell in Mexico 90+*f and I was pulling timing halfway through 4th, and the ctsv was having serious heat issues as well.
For comparisons sake, I used to be pretty damn even with the r8. If he got any sort of hit, I couldn't I catch him. now after the rotational mass drop and alignment, you can see the difference. If he gets a jump, I can drive around. It's amazing what a few pounds can do. Weight is the enemy.
Lokks slow when everyone is in a pack with no real stationary reference, but it was ~60-140ish haha
V10 r8 with just an exhaust. Ctsv is bolt on tune LSA car. Was hot as hell in Mexico 90+*f and I was pulling timing halfway through 4th, and the ctsv was having serious heat issues as well.
For comparisons sake, I used to be pretty damn even with the r8. If he got any sort of hit, I couldn't I catch him. now after the rotational mass drop and alignment, you can see the difference. If he gets a jump, I can drive around. It's amazing what a few pounds can do. Weight is the enemy.
Lokks slow when everyone is in a pack with no real stationary reference, but it was ~60-140ish haha
Last edited by 07blackg5; 06-09-2017 at 11:26 AM.
Slobodan Miloević
iTrader: (8)
Pulled my valve cover to make sure everything looked okay. Looked brand new, so that was nice. Changed my plugs and put it back together.
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Snail_SS
Want to burn it to the ground.........
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by StevoElSupremo
LOL IDK, would a stock SS TC run a stock C5? it did stoke my interest in the C5 though as it sounded Gnarly
Nah I don't but I do lol its complicated. Yeah once I get frustrated I step away but I have barely driven the car to get it boosting properly and nothing I do will fix the damn problem its annoying. The car pretty much has been standing for a yr+
Decided that the balt is going to the scrap yard, it was fun while it lasted.
It is sad too, there are no leaks whatsoever in the engine or tranny. body and frame just rotted out around it.
It is sad too, there are no leaks whatsoever in the engine or tranny. body and frame just rotted out around it.
The problem with the SS is that it has those rocker moldings that trap salt, dirt and moisture in there. I've been thinking about pulling mine off and waxing under there to delay the inevitable. There's surface rust on the pinch welds, but nothing major. Been oil sprayed the last 2 years.
That bad? I didn't think these cars were that old yet.
The problem with the SS is that it has those rocker moldings that trap salt, dirt and moisture in there. I've been thinking about pulling mine off and waxing under there to delay the inevitable. There's surface rust on the pinch welds, but nothing major. Been oil sprayed the last 2 years.
The problem with the SS is that it has those rocker moldings that trap salt, dirt and moisture in there. I've been thinking about pulling mine off and waxing under there to delay the inevitable. There's surface rust on the pinch welds, but nothing major. Been oil sprayed the last 2 years.
Was going to Bondo as a band-aid but it isn't worth it.
They must have changed the kind of salt that they use on the roads around here, because a car shouldn't be that rotted out after 10 years unless it had some kind of shade tree bodywork done to it or something extreme.
NY uses CaCl and a brine mixture (salt water that they spray on the highway) depending on the weather. Years ago they just used rock salt, which wasn't as corrosive. It's keeping me from buying a new car because I know it'll just look like **** in 5 years underneath.
NY uses CaCl and a brine mixture (salt water that they spray on the highway) depending on the weather. Years ago they just used rock salt, which wasn't as corrosive. It's keeping me from buying a new car because I know it'll just look like **** in 5 years underneath.
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EmperorJJ1 (06-13-2017)
New Member
Have you gotten any quotes on getting the rockers repaired?
I may have to do mine.
New weld in (NOT slip on) rockers for a cobalt coupe are $54 Canadian each.
I've done 3 rocker jobs in the last year.
1997 Buick Lesabre - needed rockers both sides, inner rocker on one side. Previous owner had already had a slip on put on one side, the mess underneath had spread into the inner rocker.
2006 VW Jetta - Needed rockers both sides (the only aftermarket rockers available were from VW and cost $820 per side because rocker, rear quarter, and c-pilar are all one piece. I ended up forming new rockers out of 18ga satin coat sheet metal on the brake press at work)
2004 Chevy Silverado - needed rockers, inner rockers, and cab corners on both sides. Because it's cab on frame, it's not structural so I fully welded in just a patch for the inner rockers after I cut the rust out.
In each case the owner sourced their own rockers and material, I cut out the old rotten metal, welded in the new material and buffed the weld ready for paint. I charged each of them $700 in labour.
Before you give up on her completely, get some quotes. Not all "shade tree" or backyard mechanics are bad. I'm a welder/fitter by trade, this is just something I've found I can do in my spare time.
I may have to do mine.
New weld in (NOT slip on) rockers for a cobalt coupe are $54 Canadian each.
I've done 3 rocker jobs in the last year.
1997 Buick Lesabre - needed rockers both sides, inner rocker on one side. Previous owner had already had a slip on put on one side, the mess underneath had spread into the inner rocker.
2006 VW Jetta - Needed rockers both sides (the only aftermarket rockers available were from VW and cost $820 per side because rocker, rear quarter, and c-pilar are all one piece. I ended up forming new rockers out of 18ga satin coat sheet metal on the brake press at work)
2004 Chevy Silverado - needed rockers, inner rockers, and cab corners on both sides. Because it's cab on frame, it's not structural so I fully welded in just a patch for the inner rockers after I cut the rust out.
In each case the owner sourced their own rockers and material, I cut out the old rotten metal, welded in the new material and buffed the weld ready for paint. I charged each of them $700 in labour.
Before you give up on her completely, get some quotes. Not all "shade tree" or backyard mechanics are bad. I'm a welder/fitter by trade, this is just something I've found I can do in my spare time.
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
You would absolutely freight train a stock C5
Did you check your wastegate preload bro? Does the boost come on pretty nicely or is it sluggish? I'm sure KMO would have you check these things but it's possible that the nut/rod came loose and backed off a bit?
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
They must have changed the kind of salt that they use on the roads around here, because a car shouldn't be that rotted out after 10 years unless it had some kind of shade tree bodywork done to it or something extreme.
NY uses CaCl and a brine mixture (salt water that they spray on the highway) depending on the weather. Years ago they just used rock salt, which wasn't as corrosive. It's keeping me from buying a new car because I know it'll just look like **** in 5 years underneath.
NY uses CaCl and a brine mixture (salt water that they spray on the highway) depending on the weather. Years ago they just used rock salt, which wasn't as corrosive. It's keeping me from buying a new car because I know it'll just look like **** in 5 years underneath.
Have you gotten any quotes on getting the rockers repaired?
I may have to do mine.
New weld in (NOT slip on) rockers for a cobalt coupe are $54 Canadian each.
I've done 3 rocker jobs in the last year.
1997 Buick Lesabre - needed rockers both sides, inner rocker on one side. Previous owner had already had a slip on put on one side, the mess underneath had spread into the inner rocker.
2006 VW Jetta - Needed rockers both sides (the only aftermarket rockers available were from VW and cost $820 per side because rocker, rear quarter, and c-pilar are all one piece. I ended up forming new rockers out of 18ga satin coat sheet metal on the brake press at work)
2004 Chevy Silverado - needed rockers, inner rockers, and cab corners on both sides. Because it's cab on frame, it's not structural so I fully welded in just a patch for the inner rockers after I cut the rust out.
In each case the owner sourced their own rockers and material, I cut out the old rotten metal, welded in the new material and buffed the weld ready for paint. I charged each of them $700 in labour.
Before you give up on her completely, get some quotes. Not all "shade tree" or backyard mechanics are bad. I'm a welder/fitter by trade, this is just something I've found I can do in my spare time.
I may have to do mine.
New weld in (NOT slip on) rockers for a cobalt coupe are $54 Canadian each.
I've done 3 rocker jobs in the last year.
1997 Buick Lesabre - needed rockers both sides, inner rocker on one side. Previous owner had already had a slip on put on one side, the mess underneath had spread into the inner rocker.
2006 VW Jetta - Needed rockers both sides (the only aftermarket rockers available were from VW and cost $820 per side because rocker, rear quarter, and c-pilar are all one piece. I ended up forming new rockers out of 18ga satin coat sheet metal on the brake press at work)
2004 Chevy Silverado - needed rockers, inner rockers, and cab corners on both sides. Because it's cab on frame, it's not structural so I fully welded in just a patch for the inner rockers after I cut the rust out.
In each case the owner sourced their own rockers and material, I cut out the old rotten metal, welded in the new material and buffed the weld ready for paint. I charged each of them $700 in labour.
Before you give up on her completely, get some quotes. Not all "shade tree" or backyard mechanics are bad. I'm a welder/fitter by trade, this is just something I've found I can do in my spare time.
The other thing is in August I'll be moving and have to do a 1400 mile drive to FL where I'll be living. I am thinking I'm going to run the car until at least then and then either drive down and scrap it or find one there that needs and engine and swap the engine and tranny from mine into the new body.
Last edited by Meystrike; 06-13-2017 at 06:13 AM. Reason: extra info