when do you shift for normal driving and drag racing?
#1
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when do you shift for normal driving and drag racing?
this is my first 5 speed. trying to figure out where the best place to shift is for the max MPG. iv been shifting around 2000-2200rpm..
when your racing where do you shift? 6100rpm?
when your racing where do you shift? 6100rpm?
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that may be good for MPG.
but if you want your clutch to last forever, shift over 3000rpm ALL THE TIME!!!!
my 06 ss/sc has over 200,000km, and i am on my origanal clutch, it has NEVER sliped on me.
i go to the track twice a month during the summer and i red line my ****!!
but if you want your clutch to last forever, shift over 3000rpm ALL THE TIME!!!!
my 06 ss/sc has over 200,000km, and i am on my origanal clutch, it has NEVER sliped on me.
i go to the track twice a month during the summer and i red line my ****!!
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you can also search this bc theres a bunch of threads on it
but the clutch in the ss/sc likes to be shifted between 3000 - 3500 and shift it firmly no riding the clutch
the only time i shift below 3k is when im outta gas haha
but the clutch in the ss/sc likes to be shifted between 3000 - 3500 and shift it firmly no riding the clutch
the only time i shift below 3k is when im outta gas haha
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hahahahahahaha that might work for you, bt hes in the perfect range for mpg's already...from what i have heard from the s/c guys they launch at 3500-4500 at the strip, but it takes practice to get that right... and colinsss, are you sssc? because im an ls and iv had slippage in my car because of how i drive on a day to day basis( like i stole it lol) but it was just lightly glazed and went away after babying it for a few days
#6
that may be good for MPG.
but if you want your clutch to last forever, shift over 3000rpm ALL THE TIME!!!!
my 06 ss/sc has over 200,000km, and i am on my origanal clutch, it has NEVER sliped on me.
i go to the track twice a month during the summer and i red line my ****!!
but if you want your clutch to last forever, shift over 3000rpm ALL THE TIME!!!!
my 06 ss/sc has over 200,000km, and i am on my origanal clutch, it has NEVER sliped on me.
i go to the track twice a month during the summer and i red line my ****!!
In terms of best rpm's for gas mileage, there's really no answer for that, I'm surprised (not really) by the responses here. Rpm's are NOT the sole indicator of gas mileage. You want to look at engine load and boost (if applicable) much more so than rpms. To get the best mileage, you want the lowest rpms that your engine will run with the least effort. You can drive at 2,000 rpms all day long, if you're boosting 15psi to get up that slight incline, your mileage is going to go to ****. In that situation, you will get better mileage downshifting to 3rd, letting the rpm's go significantly higher, but keeping the boost in vacuum.
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100% dead wrong, everyone stop saying this! it's flat out bs. If you shift your car properly, you can shift below 3krpms every single time and not have your clutch go out. This is one of those things that someone said years ago, so other people said it, and then other people said it, and now for some reason everyone believes it. The 3,000 rpm rule ONLY applies if you don't know how to drive a manual properly.
#8
rev match
down shift
Basically, (the oversimplified version, since all the info is in the write up) when you shift higher or lower, your rpms are going to either go up or down. You want to match the tranny with the engine speed. What does that mean? Suppose your driving at 4k in 2nd gear, and shift to 3rd. What happens? Your rpm's drop. What you need to learn is where the rpms will drop based on gear and rpm. So you push the clutch, make your shift, wait for the rpms to fall to the approprate amount, and let the clutch out. It's tricky to learn, and will take some time. If you do it wrong, the car will give a jolt. (you'll know if you do it wrong, trust me) But stick it out, it's worth the practice. If you stay around long enough, you'll see how many people complain about the clutch going out, and how it sucks, meanwhile it's driver error that could have been prevented.
I'll find the write up for you, and if you have specific questions after that, feel free to shoot me a pm.
here ya go, it was actually a sticky in this section (general cobalt)
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/general-cobalt-68/driving-manual-tips-197545/
Last edited by D4u2s0t; 12-29-2009 at 09:09 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#9
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someone did a real good write up recently, i'd guess it's in the how to section. Here are a few terms to put in google, and do some reading on
rev match
down shift
Basically, (the oversimplified version, since all the info is in the write up) when you shift higher or lower, your rpms are going to either go up or down. You want to match the tranny with the engine speed. What does that mean? Suppose your driving at 4k in 2nd gear, and shift to 3rd. What happens? Your rpm's drop. What you need to learn is where the rpms will drop based on gear and rpm. So you push the clutch, make your shift, wait for the rpms to fall to the approprate amount, and let the clutch out. It's tricky to learn, and will take some time. If you do it wrong, the car will give a jolt. (you'll know if you do it wrong, trust me) But stick it out, it's worth the practice. If you stay around long enough, you'll see how many people complain about the clutch going out, and how it sucks, meanwhile it's driver error that could have been prevented.
I'll find the write up for you, and if you have specific questions after that, feel free to shoot me a pm.
rev match
down shift
Basically, (the oversimplified version, since all the info is in the write up) when you shift higher or lower, your rpms are going to either go up or down. You want to match the tranny with the engine speed. What does that mean? Suppose your driving at 4k in 2nd gear, and shift to 3rd. What happens? Your rpm's drop. What you need to learn is where the rpms will drop based on gear and rpm. So you push the clutch, make your shift, wait for the rpms to fall to the approprate amount, and let the clutch out. It's tricky to learn, and will take some time. If you do it wrong, the car will give a jolt. (you'll know if you do it wrong, trust me) But stick it out, it's worth the practice. If you stay around long enough, you'll see how many people complain about the clutch going out, and how it sucks, meanwhile it's driver error that could have been prevented.
I'll find the write up for you, and if you have specific questions after that, feel free to shoot me a pm.
when i down shift i tap the gas to bring up the rpms and let the clutch out not to give you that jolt foward (i read this some where else)
seems simple enough.. i think im good to go
#10
so basically when i up shift my car doesnt jerk or anything. i dont notice anything so i should be doing it right
when i down shift i tap the gas to bring up the rpms and let the clutch out not to give you that jolt foward (i read this some where else)
seems simple enough.. i think im good to go
when i down shift i tap the gas to bring up the rpms and let the clutch out not to give you that jolt foward (i read this some where else)
seems simple enough.. i think im good to go
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ill try it.. i did read that link your posted. good reading..thanks
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there my not be any proof of the 3000rpm story, however it has always worked for me, and i am pritty damn sure know one on this site has more milage on there OEM cobalt clutch more then i do!
and dont you figgure it would be the most easy to rmp match at a modrate rmp like 3000???
let me know if im worng, dont want to tell someone something thats not true...
not talking about MPG, but clutch life...
and dont you figgure it would be the most easy to rmp match at a modrate rmp like 3000???
let me know if im worng, dont want to tell someone something thats not true...
not talking about MPG, but clutch life...
#15
there my not be any proof of the 3000rpm story, however it has always worked for me, and i am pritty damn sure know one on this site has more milage on there OEM cobalt clutch more then i do!
and dont you figgure it would be the most easy to rmp match at a modrate rmp like 3000???
let me know if im worng, dont want to tell someone something thats not true...
not talking about MPG, but clutch life...
and dont you figgure it would be the most easy to rmp match at a modrate rmp like 3000???
let me know if im worng, dont want to tell someone something thats not true...
not talking about MPG, but clutch life...
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#18
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that may be good for MPG.
but if you want your clutch to last forever, shift over 3000rpm ALL THE TIME!!!!
my 06 ss/sc has over 200,000km, and i am on my origanal clutch, it has NEVER sliped on me.
i go to the track twice a month during the summer and i red line my ****!!
but if you want your clutch to last forever, shift over 3000rpm ALL THE TIME!!!!
my 06 ss/sc has over 200,000km, and i am on my origanal clutch, it has NEVER sliped on me.
i go to the track twice a month during the summer and i red line my ****!!
All it does is get me wineing arround in 3rd gear at 40-50 mph at 2500 RPMs...
Speed limits on the way to work are 50 and 40 most of the way. I try to shift higher when im accelerating, even slowly, but when im cruisin along at 40mph or above, ill drop it into 4th... I use 5th for 55 and up.
someone did a real good write up recently, i'd guess it's in the how to section. Here are a few terms to put in google, and do some reading on
rev match
down shift
Basically, (the oversimplified version, since all the info is in the write up) when you shift higher or lower, your rpms are going to either go up or down. You want to match the tranny with the engine speed. What does that mean? Suppose your driving at 4k in 2nd gear, and shift to 3rd. What happens? Your rpm's drop. What you need to learn is where the rpms will drop based on gear and rpm. So you push the clutch, make your shift, wait for the rpms to fall to the approprate amount, and let the clutch out. It's tricky to learn, and will take some time. If you do it wrong, the car will give a jolt. (you'll know if you do it wrong, trust me) But stick it out, it's worth the practice. If you stay around long enough, you'll see how many people complain about the clutch going out, and how it sucks, meanwhile it's driver error that could have been prevented.
I'll find the write up for you, and if you have specific questions after that, feel free to shoot me a pm.
here ya go, it was actually a sticky in this section (general cobalt)
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=197545
rev match
down shift
Basically, (the oversimplified version, since all the info is in the write up) when you shift higher or lower, your rpms are going to either go up or down. You want to match the tranny with the engine speed. What does that mean? Suppose your driving at 4k in 2nd gear, and shift to 3rd. What happens? Your rpm's drop. What you need to learn is where the rpms will drop based on gear and rpm. So you push the clutch, make your shift, wait for the rpms to fall to the approprate amount, and let the clutch out. It's tricky to learn, and will take some time. If you do it wrong, the car will give a jolt. (you'll know if you do it wrong, trust me) But stick it out, it's worth the practice. If you stay around long enough, you'll see how many people complain about the clutch going out, and how it sucks, meanwhile it's driver error that could have been prevented.
I'll find the write up for you, and if you have specific questions after that, feel free to shoot me a pm.
here ya go, it was actually a sticky in this section (general cobalt)
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=197545
Last edited by insylem; 12-29-2009 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#19
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The 3000 rpm deal was for people who had trouble with the 1st to 2nd gear change in the SS/SC . the gear ratio's of 1st and 2nd are too far apart so people were slipping the clutch to get a smooth 1-2 gear shift. I found it easier on the car if I waited a second before engaging the clutch in 2nd ....give the rpm a chance to come down from such a short 1st gear ...... so it was a smooth engagement .
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dont have time to read every post because im at work but just take your time and get a feel for your car. we all have the same make and all but we have different models and tunes/setups.
this was my first manual and i just got a feel for it over time. i shift at 3k-3500k regular driving, if you have a sc you wont be in boost and the car (at least mine) in shifting has a smooth transition through the gears. there are also time in 1st gear i may hold it out till high 3-4k rpms so when i shift into 2nd there is no jerk.
bottom line is there are plenty of methods on how to shift its just up to you and how you drive.
this was my first manual and i just got a feel for it over time. i shift at 3k-3500k regular driving, if you have a sc you wont be in boost and the car (at least mine) in shifting has a smooth transition through the gears. there are also time in 1st gear i may hold it out till high 3-4k rpms so when i shift into 2nd there is no jerk.
bottom line is there are plenty of methods on how to shift its just up to you and how you drive.
#22
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Shift as early as you can without burning the clutch or lugging the engine.
Also, always rev-match. Anyone who tells you not to is a moron. Check my sticky in the General Cobalt section for tips.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=197545
Also, always rev-match. Anyone who tells you not to is a moron. Check my sticky in the General Cobalt section for tips.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=197545
#24
If by bullshit, he means not necesary, i would not take advice from him in regards to driving, ever. Driving a manual is one of those things where more time driving does not mean you know more about properly shifting. If your taught wrong, or teach yourself, you're very likely to develop bad habits that never change.
#25
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If by bullshit, he means not necesary, i would not take advice from him in regards to driving, ever. Driving a manual is one of those things where more time driving does not mean you know more about properly shifting. If your taught wrong, or teach yourself, you're very likely to develop bad habits that never change.
BUt say to get from 4 to 3, I have to look at my speed, I know when im going 40mph, that I then need to set my RPM to 2500 but then ive slowed down a little, and OH **** I didnt see the turn ops...
VERY SMOOOOOOOTH When I get it right.... as far as 4 to 3 and 3 to 2, thats not so smooth.... But if I have to stop at like a light or something, I just go to N and use the brakes... Those are cheaper then clutches anyways I did notice that hwne I let the clutch out slowly for 1-2 that it doesnt bounce as much (NOT talking about wheel hop) But doesnt that wear the clutch? I like to let out fast... but oh well.. I guess some clutch wear is inevidable.