Winterizing My Cobalt - A Step By Step Guide
Winterizing My Cobalt - A Step By Step Guide
Well, After about 400 threads with 2379831 different answers, i decided to pick the best ones and use them for the storage of my cobalt for the winter. Now i know all the ethugs will come out and nit pick something Ive done, just shows how ignorant they really are to fight on the interwebz
Enjoy 
I filled up with some v-powa gas and dumbed half a bottle of fuel stabilizer in there. Not sure if it works but I used this stuff when i was away for college for 5 months and had no side affects so what the hell ill use it again.

Give the car a good scrub down. I placed my car on some wood to prevent dry rot of the tires. Not sure if it works/true but i did it anyway

Next, I changed my oil. Of course i used mobil 1

Some what clean after about 4k of abused miles

Out with the old, in with the new!

Pump the tires up to MAX PSI, mine was 44psi

I placed my cover on my car to somewhat prevent dust or w/e may get on the car while it sits. and volla your done
I filled up with some v-powa gas and dumbed half a bottle of fuel stabilizer in there. Not sure if it works but I used this stuff when i was away for college for 5 months and had no side affects so what the hell ill use it again.

Give the car a good scrub down. I placed my car on some wood to prevent dry rot of the tires. Not sure if it works/true but i did it anyway

Next, I changed my oil. Of course i used mobil 1


Some what clean after about 4k of abused miles


Out with the old, in with the new!

Pump the tires up to MAX PSI, mine was 44psi

I placed my cover on my car to somewhat prevent dust or w/e may get on the car while it sits. and volla your done

Looks good. Personally I feel its better in the winter to just take the car for a spin around the block every so often, but if one physically can not do that, this plan seems to be the next best thing.
You have some good tips there but here is what we recommend for storing a vehicle:
http://www.turnerautomotive.com/winter_storage.htm
http://www.turnerautomotive.com/winter_storage.htm
Change the oil and filter, let the engine run for awhile to circulate the fresh oil. The reason for this is the oil tends to collect acids as you drive. We've seen engine parts corrode from sitting in used oil over the winter.
Fill the gas tank to the top and add fuel stabilizer. You want the smallest air gap as possible because temperature change will cause condensation.
Wash and completely detail your Corvette, inside and out.
Inflate tires to 40 pounds of air. The reason is because on average your tire will loose 2 pounds of air each month when sitting. Also, this will prevent your tires from forming hard spots.
Clean out the interior really well. Check all compartments as to not attract mice.
Place several moth ***** on plates around and under your Corvette to keep mice away.
Stuff a rag into the airbox intake and exhaust tip to keep mice out. *Make sure you make a note to remove them before starting your Corvette in the spring.
Check the anti-freeze and adjust if needed. Should be at least 20 below zero.
Top off any other fluids in the engine bay.
Place a 'Dry Pac' moisture bag in the interior and engine bay to keep the moisture levels down. Put them on plastic bags so they do not come into direct contact with your Corvette.
In our opinion, it is a good idea to install a 'Demand Trickle Charger' and leave it plugged in all winter long. This will keep your Corvette's computer charged and prevent check engine code's in the spring. We have these trickle chargers in stock and ready to install.
DO NOT start the car unless you are going to drive it. Start up is the hardest thing on the engine, especially when the car sits for an extended period of time. Doing it once in the spring is better than many times over the winter. Also, condensation will build up in your exhaust system and begin to rust it out.
In the spring, start it up and let it idle until it is almost warmed up before driving it the first time. Drive it easy for the first couple miles so all the mechanical parts get lubed up and get a good 'workout'.
Fill the gas tank to the top and add fuel stabilizer. You want the smallest air gap as possible because temperature change will cause condensation.
Wash and completely detail your Corvette, inside and out.
Inflate tires to 40 pounds of air. The reason is because on average your tire will loose 2 pounds of air each month when sitting. Also, this will prevent your tires from forming hard spots.
Clean out the interior really well. Check all compartments as to not attract mice.
Place several moth ***** on plates around and under your Corvette to keep mice away.
Stuff a rag into the airbox intake and exhaust tip to keep mice out. *Make sure you make a note to remove them before starting your Corvette in the spring.
Check the anti-freeze and adjust if needed. Should be at least 20 below zero.
Top off any other fluids in the engine bay.
Place a 'Dry Pac' moisture bag in the interior and engine bay to keep the moisture levels down. Put them on plastic bags so they do not come into direct contact with your Corvette.
In our opinion, it is a good idea to install a 'Demand Trickle Charger' and leave it plugged in all winter long. This will keep your Corvette's computer charged and prevent check engine code's in the spring. We have these trickle chargers in stock and ready to install.
DO NOT start the car unless you are going to drive it. Start up is the hardest thing on the engine, especially when the car sits for an extended period of time. Doing it once in the spring is better than many times over the winter. Also, condensation will build up in your exhaust system and begin to rust it out.
In the spring, start it up and let it idle until it is almost warmed up before driving it the first time. Drive it easy for the first couple miles so all the mechanical parts get lubed up and get a good 'workout'.
You have some good tips there but here is what we recommend for storing a vehicle:
http://www.turnerautomotive.com/winter_storage.htm
http://www.turnerautomotive.com/winter_storage.htm
pour some oil or use an oil fogger and out some in each cylinder to prevent the cylinder walls from rusting. Also take the battery out and out it some place warm.
When you store your car it should not be started. It will do more harm then good
When you store your car it should not be started. It will do more harm then good
not a myth it is fact. When a car has been sitting for a while and you start it up it is very hard on the engine since the oil rings and the valve train have had all their oil drained off. Everytime you start that car you are putting unnecessary wear on those parts. Also if you are only taking it around the block you are really doing harm since you are never letting the car get to operating temps. This will cause moisture in the oil and this will lead to pitting of bearings.
If you have properly stored a car there is no reason to start it every so often
i guess you guys dont read well
once a week its going to be started and driving for 20-30 mins. i dont think a car sitting for 6 days will "drain" all the oil off. Im not starting ti and driving it right away, it will warm up to operating temp before me womping on it in the hood.
Doesn't starting it and driving it in the snow/salt/sand kinda defeat the purpose of storing a car for the winter? No offense but it doesn't make sense to me to do that. Normally when people 'store' a car for winter it sits covered up and doesn't see the light of day until spring.
Doesn't starting it and driving it in the snow/salt/sand kinda defeat the purpose of storing a car for the winter? No offense but it doesn't make sense to me to do that. Normally when people 'store' a car for winter it sits covered up and doesn't see the light of day until spring.
I don't think that the previous poster was trying to pick on you. But instead we are having a conversation about the proper way of storing a car for the winter. Driving the car once a week during the winter for limited miles is not the proper way of doing it. We just want to make sure that if someone who is looking for info on the proper way to store a car does not use your techniques. That is why we are pointing out the flaws.
Right now the only person that is ethugging is you my friend. Take a step back and put your ego in check and learn to admit when you are wrong.
Gm is actually recommending this to dealerships. Atleast thats what we were told. When its on the lot disconnect the battery to save its life. The clock and internal memory of the radio runs it down
i would have to agree with the not starting it once a month or every 2 weeks becasue of the no oil in the cylinder walls. but every week you should be fine. mine will sit from november 1st to about march 1st and it wont be started in between. what i will do is on march 1st i will unplug the coils so theres no spark which will allow the motor to turn over and get oil in the cylinder before it actually starting!!



