Detailing: Deatailing Your Car....
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 07-04-06
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
Deatailing Your Car....
This is my first DIY some give me a break if it's a little sketchy. Thanks to all those that read.
THE FALLOWING DIY IS FOR A BASIC DETAL. THIS TO GET YOU STARTED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION FOR CARE OF YOUR VEHICAL.
The fallowing steps are not by any means the only way to detail you car. These steps are the steps that the Detail Department at Team Chevrolet and Cadillac of Vallejo, Ca use with nearly every Detail.
Things Needed:
(note: no specific product names will be listed for two reasons: 1; it is up to you to decide what works best for you (this includes all steps mentioned and not mentioned); and 2; I have no clue what exactly the dealership uses as far as brands go)
1. A good long hose that can reach 360 degrees around car and then some.
2. A spray nozzle for hose (note: we use a standard on like this:
^^^ Just not as fancy
3. Car Wash Soap (plus Bucket)
4. Bug-off (works really well on bugs and on bird doo doo)
5. All Purpose Cleaner
6. Engine Degreaser (not entirely necessary because All Purpose works good too but just not as good)
7. Brushes or Sponges (brushes are better imo but use what works for you)
8. Shammy
9. Small Towels/Rags (about 15.5 inches by 15.5 inches is what we use. Also you will need anywhere from 10 to 20 of these. It sounds like a lot but you need a clean rag for everything you do to get good quality out of your detail.)
10. Micro Fiber (mostly for fuzzies and lint left by towels and for waxing)
11. Carpet Shampoo
12. Vacuum
13. Glass Cleaner
14. Tire Shine
15. Vinyl and Plastic Cleaner (armoral)
16. Car Wax or Polish
17. Steel Wool
It's a lot of stuff I know, but you will probably use majority of it every time you clean or detail you car.
note: you will want to have a bucket with your soapy water already ready at the start. I'm pretty sure we use 5gal buckets that we completely fill. The foamier the soap is the better it seams to work.
1. Start off by popping the hood if you're planning on getting this clean. Spray everything you see that's dirty. This includes the underside of the hood itself. Use the Engine Degreaser or The All Purpose Cleaner.
2. Spray the wheels down with the Degreaser or All Purpose.
note #1: be quick at this point. The Degreaser/All purpose can make cleaning the wheels more of a pain in the butt if left on wheels for too long
3. Take Brush or Sponge and scrub wheels thoroughly. Also scrub wheel wells.
note #2: the next step will have nearly everyone screaming but this is what we do and our service guys have told me that it is ok.
4. Take hose and nozzle and spray down engine bay. Make sure that all Degreaser/All Purpose is rinses off, it will leave a white residue if let to air dry. Close hood.
5. Take hose and nozzle and rinse off wheels and wheel wells.
6. Spray down any and all Bugs and Bird Doo Doo with the Bug-off. This will prevent you from having to scrub them with either your brush/sponge or one of your rags/towels.
7. Wait a couple seconds then rinse Bug-off. I suggest using your most powerful setting on your nozzle.
8. Now soak your Car.
9. Soap and lather. Pretty simple, no?
10. Rinse. if you see any stubborn dirt spots, repeat step 9. Also, All Purpose can help.
11. Now dry with Shammy. Towels work as well but Shammies are better imo. Make sure you periodically dry the Shammy by any means necessary. Ringing out works ok.
12. Chances are you won't get every single drop of water. Sorry. If you have an air compressor then you're in luck. It'll be your friend and water's enemy. mwuhahahahaha!!! lol....
13. Next pop open hood and dry. Get every nook and cranny.
14. Take one of your rags. Open your doors and your trunk. Take rag and wipe down the jams. Get into those crevasses where the hinges are. It's a tight fit but, "You can do it!"
note #3: this is a good place to deviate if that’s what you want to do. Personally, I work from the outside in.
15. Take new rag and in half 2 or 3 times. (I do 3 times to get more out of the rag). Clean windows. Best way I've found for doing this is to look at each window as 2 windows (inside and out). Do 1 window at a time. Give each window 2 or 3 sprays. Move the bottle from side to side to distribute the Glass Cleaner more evenly. Wipe with one side of rag up and down from left to right. Flip rag over and wipe left to right from top to bottom. Do this for 2 to 3 windows than re-fold to 2 clean sides of rag. If you are encountering water spots take out your Steel Wool. Spray down windows as before. Spray the Steel Wool with the Glass Cleaner to the point where it is soaking wet. Scrub entire window once over. then Dry like before.
(personally I save the inside of the windshield and the inside of the rear window for when I'm doing the interior.)
16. New rag and Glass Cleaner. Do 1 wheel at a time. Spray Wheel with the Glass Cleaner. (Yes, Glass Cleaner. Works better than you might think.) Wipe down wheel. Be sure to rotate rag to a clean spot as the rag gets dirty. Once clean, take your tire Dressing and wipe down the tires. You can use the spray-n-go types. Much easier I think but that's not what we use. Wipe off any excess and wipe of any Tire Dressing that may have gotten on to the wheel.
17. If you're detailing a vehical with a chrome or polished grill, take out another new rag, your Glass Cleaner, and your Steel Wool. Your's going clean/polish this and all other chrome or polished exterior trim pieces. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD WITH ANY CHROME/POLISHED INTERIOR TRIM PEICES!! YOU WILL SCRATCH THEM!! use the same technique you used for the water spots on your windows. step 15
18. If the vehicle you are Detailing has any plastic trim or surfaces on the outside take out new rag and your Vinyl and Plastic Cleaner (armoral). i.e. running boards on SUV's and Trucks. Will make look brand new. Spray surface with your Vinyl and Plastic Cleaner (armoral) and wipe clean.
I'd say wax here but I usually tidy up the interior first.
19. For scuffs on interior of doors and other interior panels get out your All Purpose and 2 New Rags. Fold 1 rag however you like and dampen it. Not dripping wet but damp. Leave 1 rag dry. Spray either or both the rag/scuff. Scrub. Take Dry rag and wipe surface clean. Tada!!
19. Stains....... Grrrrr....... Either use above method or use Carpet Shampoo and a brush or rag. Both work pretty good Just Scrub until clean.
20. Vacuum....... Do I need to? I mean really.....
21. Waxing....... Best bet is to always read and fallow directions on the back of bottle. But if the label magically disappeared then here’s a brief how to.....
1. You'll need 1 damp rag; 1 dry and clean Micro Fiber; Wax; and patients.
2. dab a 50 cent piece sized amount of wax onto folded damp rag (folded 3 to 4 times works for me)
3. Apply wax ONE SECTION AT A TIME. Move rag from side to side NOT IN CIRCLES. Late Wax haze (takes a few seconds) then remove with Micro Fiber.
Be sure to avoid your plastic trim pieces because you will fade and stain them
I hope this was useful. Sorry it was so long. However, you're only looking at about 2 hours to do everything. It takes us about 45 min to an hour without the waxing. Good luck.
THE FALLOWING DIY IS FOR A BASIC DETAL. THIS TO GET YOU STARTED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION FOR CARE OF YOUR VEHICAL.
The fallowing steps are not by any means the only way to detail you car. These steps are the steps that the Detail Department at Team Chevrolet and Cadillac of Vallejo, Ca use with nearly every Detail.
Things Needed:
(note: no specific product names will be listed for two reasons: 1; it is up to you to decide what works best for you (this includes all steps mentioned and not mentioned); and 2; I have no clue what exactly the dealership uses as far as brands go)
1. A good long hose that can reach 360 degrees around car and then some.
2. A spray nozzle for hose (note: we use a standard on like this:
^^^ Just not as fancy
3. Car Wash Soap (plus Bucket)
4. Bug-off (works really well on bugs and on bird doo doo)
5. All Purpose Cleaner
6. Engine Degreaser (not entirely necessary because All Purpose works good too but just not as good)
7. Brushes or Sponges (brushes are better imo but use what works for you)
8. Shammy
9. Small Towels/Rags (about 15.5 inches by 15.5 inches is what we use. Also you will need anywhere from 10 to 20 of these. It sounds like a lot but you need a clean rag for everything you do to get good quality out of your detail.)
10. Micro Fiber (mostly for fuzzies and lint left by towels and for waxing)
11. Carpet Shampoo
12. Vacuum
13. Glass Cleaner
14. Tire Shine
15. Vinyl and Plastic Cleaner (armoral)
16. Car Wax or Polish
17. Steel Wool
It's a lot of stuff I know, but you will probably use majority of it every time you clean or detail you car.
note: you will want to have a bucket with your soapy water already ready at the start. I'm pretty sure we use 5gal buckets that we completely fill. The foamier the soap is the better it seams to work.
1. Start off by popping the hood if you're planning on getting this clean. Spray everything you see that's dirty. This includes the underside of the hood itself. Use the Engine Degreaser or The All Purpose Cleaner.
2. Spray the wheels down with the Degreaser or All Purpose.
note #1: be quick at this point. The Degreaser/All purpose can make cleaning the wheels more of a pain in the butt if left on wheels for too long
3. Take Brush or Sponge and scrub wheels thoroughly. Also scrub wheel wells.
note #2: the next step will have nearly everyone screaming but this is what we do and our service guys have told me that it is ok.
4. Take hose and nozzle and spray down engine bay. Make sure that all Degreaser/All Purpose is rinses off, it will leave a white residue if let to air dry. Close hood.
5. Take hose and nozzle and rinse off wheels and wheel wells.
6. Spray down any and all Bugs and Bird Doo Doo with the Bug-off. This will prevent you from having to scrub them with either your brush/sponge or one of your rags/towels.
7. Wait a couple seconds then rinse Bug-off. I suggest using your most powerful setting on your nozzle.
8. Now soak your Car.
9. Soap and lather. Pretty simple, no?
10. Rinse. if you see any stubborn dirt spots, repeat step 9. Also, All Purpose can help.
11. Now dry with Shammy. Towels work as well but Shammies are better imo. Make sure you periodically dry the Shammy by any means necessary. Ringing out works ok.
12. Chances are you won't get every single drop of water. Sorry. If you have an air compressor then you're in luck. It'll be your friend and water's enemy. mwuhahahahaha!!! lol....
13. Next pop open hood and dry. Get every nook and cranny.
14. Take one of your rags. Open your doors and your trunk. Take rag and wipe down the jams. Get into those crevasses where the hinges are. It's a tight fit but, "You can do it!"
note #3: this is a good place to deviate if that’s what you want to do. Personally, I work from the outside in.
15. Take new rag and in half 2 or 3 times. (I do 3 times to get more out of the rag). Clean windows. Best way I've found for doing this is to look at each window as 2 windows (inside and out). Do 1 window at a time. Give each window 2 or 3 sprays. Move the bottle from side to side to distribute the Glass Cleaner more evenly. Wipe with one side of rag up and down from left to right. Flip rag over and wipe left to right from top to bottom. Do this for 2 to 3 windows than re-fold to 2 clean sides of rag. If you are encountering water spots take out your Steel Wool. Spray down windows as before. Spray the Steel Wool with the Glass Cleaner to the point where it is soaking wet. Scrub entire window once over. then Dry like before.
(personally I save the inside of the windshield and the inside of the rear window for when I'm doing the interior.)
16. New rag and Glass Cleaner. Do 1 wheel at a time. Spray Wheel with the Glass Cleaner. (Yes, Glass Cleaner. Works better than you might think.) Wipe down wheel. Be sure to rotate rag to a clean spot as the rag gets dirty. Once clean, take your tire Dressing and wipe down the tires. You can use the spray-n-go types. Much easier I think but that's not what we use. Wipe off any excess and wipe of any Tire Dressing that may have gotten on to the wheel.
17. If you're detailing a vehical with a chrome or polished grill, take out another new rag, your Glass Cleaner, and your Steel Wool. Your's going clean/polish this and all other chrome or polished exterior trim pieces. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD WITH ANY CHROME/POLISHED INTERIOR TRIM PEICES!! YOU WILL SCRATCH THEM!! use the same technique you used for the water spots on your windows. step 15
18. If the vehicle you are Detailing has any plastic trim or surfaces on the outside take out new rag and your Vinyl and Plastic Cleaner (armoral). i.e. running boards on SUV's and Trucks. Will make look brand new. Spray surface with your Vinyl and Plastic Cleaner (armoral) and wipe clean.
I'd say wax here but I usually tidy up the interior first.
19. For scuffs on interior of doors and other interior panels get out your All Purpose and 2 New Rags. Fold 1 rag however you like and dampen it. Not dripping wet but damp. Leave 1 rag dry. Spray either or both the rag/scuff. Scrub. Take Dry rag and wipe surface clean. Tada!!
19. Stains....... Grrrrr....... Either use above method or use Carpet Shampoo and a brush or rag. Both work pretty good Just Scrub until clean.
20. Vacuum....... Do I need to? I mean really.....
21. Waxing....... Best bet is to always read and fallow directions on the back of bottle. But if the label magically disappeared then here’s a brief how to.....
1. You'll need 1 damp rag; 1 dry and clean Micro Fiber; Wax; and patients.
2. dab a 50 cent piece sized amount of wax onto folded damp rag (folded 3 to 4 times works for me)
3. Apply wax ONE SECTION AT A TIME. Move rag from side to side NOT IN CIRCLES. Late Wax haze (takes a few seconds) then remove with Micro Fiber.
Be sure to avoid your plastic trim pieces because you will fade and stain them
I hope this was useful. Sorry it was so long. However, you're only looking at about 2 hours to do everything. It takes us about 45 min to an hour without the waxing. Good luck.
Last edited by TommyP; May 23, 2012 at 03:57 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-28-06
Posts: 12,577
Likes: 2
From: Canada
great work!!
but yours scaring the **** out of me with the steel wool thing......
Im certain you dont actually mean steel wool, but more like one of those gritty scrubber things that are usually green and yellow?
Steel wool would tear the **** out of those windows lol
but yours scaring the **** out of me with the steel wool thing......
Im certain you dont actually mean steel wool, but more like one of those gritty scrubber things that are usually green and yellow?
Steel wool would tear the **** out of those windows lol
Member
Joined: 06-18-06
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Rochester NY
Horrible write up, your cars probably come out like **** after words, and your using products that will deminish the cars finish and actually do more harm than good.
Fist off, you say you use Armoral!? Big NO NO, Armoral contains alcohol which is actually harmful for your vehicles plastic and vinyl. In the long run and draws moisture out of plastic and vinyl surface which promotes cracking and discoloration. Its best to use a water based cleaner.
Second, glass cleaner on chrome? Most glass cleaners are amonia based which can etch chrome and other soft metals.
A true detail is going to consist of more than a wash and wax, your dealership doesnt polish or buff with an orbital polisher?
Undercoat? Fabric protector? Steam cleaning headliners? white wall cleaner? leather conditioning?
Why would you clean your windows first? So that when you apply your armoral it can smear the window so you can clean it again?
Dont your apply protectant or atleast tire-shine on the moldings so wax doesnt stain it?
If you're going to do a write up on detailing a vehicle, I guess I would suggest going a little more in-depth on things.
Fist off, you say you use Armoral!? Big NO NO, Armoral contains alcohol which is actually harmful for your vehicles plastic and vinyl. In the long run and draws moisture out of plastic and vinyl surface which promotes cracking and discoloration. Its best to use a water based cleaner.
Second, glass cleaner on chrome? Most glass cleaners are amonia based which can etch chrome and other soft metals.
A true detail is going to consist of more than a wash and wax, your dealership doesnt polish or buff with an orbital polisher?
Undercoat? Fabric protector? Steam cleaning headliners? white wall cleaner? leather conditioning?
Why would you clean your windows first? So that when you apply your armoral it can smear the window so you can clean it again?
Dont your apply protectant or atleast tire-shine on the moldings so wax doesnt stain it?
If you're going to do a write up on detailing a vehicle, I guess I would suggest going a little more in-depth on things.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 07-04-06
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
^^^ For starters this only a basic detail. Second, I put armoral because vinyl dressing is what we use and armoral was an analogy to give ppl the general idea. Third, we do a basic detail not Touch of Class or Full super duty detail. We get paid 8an hour wich is crap in Ca. Fourth, all of our glass cleaner and All Purpose Cleaners are diluted at least 4-1.
DIY NOTE AT TOP: THE FALLOWING DIY IS FOR A BASIC DETAL. THIS TO GET YOU STARTED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION FOR CARE OF YOUR VEHICAL.
DIY NOTE AT TOP: THE FALLOWING DIY IS FOR A BASIC DETAL. THIS TO GET YOU STARTED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION FOR CARE OF YOUR VEHICAL.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 07-04-06
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
Originally Posted by an0malous
great work!!
but yours scaring the **** out of me with the steel wool thing......
Im certain you dont actually mean steel wool, but more like one of those gritty scrubber things that are usually green and yellow?
Steel wool would tear the **** out of those windows lol
but yours scaring the **** out of me with the steel wool thing......
Im certain you dont actually mean steel wool, but more like one of those gritty scrubber things that are usually green and yellow?
Steel wool would tear the **** out of those windows lol
Senior Member
Joined: 06-28-06
Posts: 2,755
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Nice write up for the basics. There are a few things in there I wouldn't do but to each their own. I understand you are doing this at a dealership so there is probably a time issue, but a good detail will take an entire day and involve a lot more work then this write up explains. I'm not running you down but I think other detailing noobies should know this will not get you a show quality detailing. Really each step in the process should be it's own how to to get great results.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 07-04-06
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
Originally Posted by IMADreamer
Nice write up for the basics. There are a few things in there I wouldn't do but to each their own. I understand you are doing this at a dealership so there is probably a time issue, but a good detail will take an entire day and involve a lot more work then this write up explains. I'm not running you down but I think other detailing noobies should know this will not get you a show quality detailing. Really each step in the process should be it's own how to to get great results.
But really, if you take your time, wich you should, then a few hours maybe even a full day can be expected on doing everything to Perfection.
Just trying to help...
Senior Member
Joined: 06-28-06
Posts: 2,755
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Originally Posted by LandonElf
Whats wrong with Armor-all? I use the armor all wipes and my dash shines like its brand new. Does it really cause long term damage?
It's ok as long as you do it often. If you don't keep on it though it can dry out the dash and crack it. It's not a bad product to use but there are better and safer products out there.
Calmb4dastorm: Like I said, you did a very nice write up. I know how it gets done at the dealerships and it's good enough for most. Some of us are just perfectionist and we like to spend the entire weekend working on our cars.
If I think about it I will do a nice write up on buffing sometime. The problem is I never think to take pictures of the process until I'm half done. It's very easy really, just time consuming. I'm going to be doing a zaino treatment on my uncles miata. I may do a write up of that.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 07-04-06
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
^^^I love Black cars right after being clean. Very nice.
1. I used spell check too. It was also midnight when I was writing it up.
2. And you're right about the wax when you use the really good stuff. I use the quick dry stuff becasue time is limited when I do get a chance to detail out the Cobalt.
Originally Posted by hatrickstu
im a little worried about following a how-to with a guy that can not spell the following:
1. following
2. vehicle
and wax takes alot longer than a few seconds to dry
1. following
2. vehicle
and wax takes alot longer than a few seconds to dry
2. And you're right about the wax when you use the really good stuff. I use the quick dry stuff becasue time is limited when I do get a chance to detail out the Cobalt.
New Member
Joined: 09-03-06
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Edgerton, WI
I agree with n8dogg.
I know this post was suppose to be an introductory to detailing, but be careful about some of this information. OP, please take no offense to this, I am only trying to help.
First of all, if you are a beginner detailer, DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL ON YOUR CAR. For waterspots, use a clay bar. Clay bar can be used for many other uses on your car as well, try Google for more info. Or check out www.autopia.org or www.meguiarsonline.com/forums.
Be careful with a spray nozzle like noted by the OP. Some of these have a 'Jet' type action, which if held too close to your car's paint, will scratch the paint.
Don't use regular towels that you would use around the house, use microfibers, they arent that expensive. The reason is that most towels are made of polyester, and when the edges start to fray on these towels, they become very abrasive. They will scratch your paint, and induce swirls. Keep in mind however, that you can use these rags you have if you feel you need to. If you do use them, use them on the engine bay, or in door/trunk jams, or to dry your wheels/wheelwells. They will scratch the paint of your car.
I could go on, but if you are interested in detailing your car, try some other resources. Many people frown on dealership or cheap details for the practices they use. You can avoid this by educating yourself. Some nice messageboards exist at www.autopia.org (which is also an excellent resource besides the messageboards) and www.meguiarsonline.com/forums.
I know this post was suppose to be an introductory to detailing, but be careful about some of this information. OP, please take no offense to this, I am only trying to help.
First of all, if you are a beginner detailer, DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL ON YOUR CAR. For waterspots, use a clay bar. Clay bar can be used for many other uses on your car as well, try Google for more info. Or check out www.autopia.org or www.meguiarsonline.com/forums.
Be careful with a spray nozzle like noted by the OP. Some of these have a 'Jet' type action, which if held too close to your car's paint, will scratch the paint.
Don't use regular towels that you would use around the house, use microfibers, they arent that expensive. The reason is that most towels are made of polyester, and when the edges start to fray on these towels, they become very abrasive. They will scratch your paint, and induce swirls. Keep in mind however, that you can use these rags you have if you feel you need to. If you do use them, use them on the engine bay, or in door/trunk jams, or to dry your wheels/wheelwells. They will scratch the paint of your car.
I could go on, but if you are interested in detailing your car, try some other resources. Many people frown on dealership or cheap details for the practices they use. You can avoid this by educating yourself. Some nice messageboards exist at www.autopia.org (which is also an excellent resource besides the messageboards) and www.meguiarsonline.com/forums.
Member
Joined: 12-23-06
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
I agree with n8dogg.
First of all, if you are a beginner detailer, DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL ON YOUR CAR. For waterspots, use a clay bar. Clay bar can be used for many other uses on your car as well, try Google for more info. Or check out www.autopia.org or www.meguiarsonline.com/forums.
First of all, if you are a beginner detailer, DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL ON YOUR CAR. For waterspots, use a clay bar. Clay bar can be used for many other uses on your car as well, try Google for more info. Or check out www.autopia.org or www.meguiarsonline.com/forums.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PimpLay2
08-10 SS Turbocharged General Discussion
158
Nov 11, 2008 07:31 PM
