How To: Install & Mount Big CX Heat Exchanger
 

Finished Product after being washed and cleaned...
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So you like what you have seen above^ and want to get started.
Taking off the front bumper would be key here and make your job a lot easier.
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1. I Ran the one side (Looking at the car the RIGHT SIDE of the stock h/e) coming out of the stock heat exchanger to the cx h/e. That went up under the front right headlight then down into the front of the right side of the cx h/e.
2. The other side (left side of the cx h/e) went left side and wrap to the right side then made a little circle so it would go back into the pump! (exactly where you took the line that was going out of the stock heat exchanger to the pump.
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^I used 50/50 dex cool mix. half water/half dex cool.
*I only used 2 screws, 2 lock washers, 2 nuts to mount the top part of the bracket (I drilled only 1 hole on each side to make them fit).
*The bottom side I wire tied together to the 2- 6 inch L brackets I bought from Home Depot which had pre drilled holes. Part number for the L Bracket I bought from Home Depot is in one of the pictures.
*12 feet of 3/4 heater hose. Little extra just in case.
*3-Metal Hose Clamps
*6-Metal wire ties or regular ones that I used
*1 Gallon of Dex Cool! Almost used the whole thing.
*1 foot of 1/4 hose for the drain off (blue hose on the left side)

I used the stock heat exchanger/inter cooler + the CX H/E. So I am running both the stock one plus the CX H/E (Dual Heat Exchangers). Extra coolant the better. Due to gas prices, being young, or not being able to pay for the more expensive ones. This one is very easy to install and for sure bigger than other company's like the one fast98 or his website sells (WWW. ottperformance .COM). Also Cobalt Addiction (WWW. Cobalt-Addiction .COM). Not to bash them it is just a pretty big price difference and I couldn't afford it as I talked to fast98 in pm's and he said the best he could sell his for was $280 to me at the time when it was over $300 after being shipped. He said he would be amazed if I could get the one on ebay which is the one I put on and put on for less than $200. It fits great when you mount it far back the way I did. I would recommend this to anyone as I would try to help you on how to mount it or exactly what I did. Also, to make sure it doesn't move anywhere. I have had it on the car mounted for over 4 months now and it is still perfectly secure!


-Chris

saweeet.

so have you logged any IAT2 temps?

Thanks for the PM. I now have a weekend project! The wifey is gonna be happy...not:lol:

Ok i got a stock 04 cobra h/e but im just fishy about getting the lines correctly routed to the pump and the stock h/e can you take pic's of that and so far as the write up go your how to i think is the best!!

once again (like everyone else that has posted a how to about this) ur color diagram is wrong..the water isnt hot after it leaves the h/e...its hot after it leaves the end plate

I could use pic's of the stock heat exchanger out and the pump in what it looks like i havn't been under that car to really look any one got good pic's of that??

:cssNET:

Sent you a pm. Also for me since I live in New Jersey, running the stock h/e and the CX H/E benefits me. I am not sure where everyone lives so for some of you maybe taking out the stock h/e may help some other users. This also will prevent you having to cut into the crash bar I believe.

i just did mine late at night then the next night i went out with my girl and passed out at like 11. ha

like i told you in the pm...

Find the last picture that shows the stock h/e hose that has "PUMP" written on it. take that hose off i gave you a picture of what the hose looks like. it will have 2 metal clamps on both sides. one to the stock h/e and the other to the pump. the hose says "PUMP" on one side. the actually pump says pump on it also.

pictures can not and will not help any better than that diagram i made. you will notice if you do exactly what i did you must take the one hose up and find a hose that says PUMP on it. i posted in my how to guide that hose you take off. find it. it says pump on it. the pump is located behind the stock h/e and radiator.

take that stock hose off. then the one side you took off that didn't say PUMP on it goes to the right side of the cx h/e. then on the left side of the cx h/e is the other nipple and that goes out the left then back to the pump. run the lines however you want as long as you don't kink them or anything. re-read my how to guide if you get confused. it is really simple. try to draw it out on a piece of paper and then you will understand.

hey cbod...where are you in jersey?

outside Morristown. why?

pm'd

zip ties? Really?

Flash Brandon's how to guide. take out stock h/e just like your kit and use gm's stock brackets that are on car. no fabrications needed. HOW TO GUIDE!
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/how-install-cx-racing-h-e-w-no-fabrications-125996/

If it makes you happier. the list i gave you the one packet you buy from home depot i can give you the part number gives you 4bolts/4washers/4nuts. so on top you only used 2 bolts one on each side. so the extra 2 you can just use on the botton half if you want.

If all else fails you can follow flashbrandon's how to guide where you can install big cx h/e from ebay with out any mounts. he takes the stock h/e out just like you do in your kit but uses the stock mounting brackets already on your car. pretty interested would be even cheaper and looks great but like your kit and his you have to delete the stock h/e. with my how to guide you keep the stock h/e. which is more coolant and if you live in a cool place you get better iat2's. tested it and tried both ways. never go above 120iat2's now with both stock h/e + the big cx h/e from ebay.

i just got lazy been driving the car around in jersey and trust me pot holes are everywhere and you can't avoid them. everything is still perfect. can't move it at all. had people even try to pull it down or move it. doesn't budge. bolts ontop and bottom help. will not move. solid as a rock.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=125996

I'll need this for later...

Don't use this. It should be deleted. This is exactly how to not mount your heat exchanger. Grade A hack job.

:lol::lol::lol: ohh sorry chris but it's funny as hell... all real mechanics feel this way...

if you want to run it the way fast98 uses his then by all means follow this how to guide.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=125996

^real mechanics. also delete's the stock h/e. so same as fast98 so i don't think he should have much bad to say there other than the fact people are doing it for way less than the kit he has to offer. i would understand him getting really mad. i've already helped 3 people put there's on my way. so i could understand him getting mad people buying from cx racing motor sports instead of him. also couple people who pm'd me. 1 bought the nos sniper kit and the other one bought dynotune from dynotune.com

if not the i know zzp sells one for like $160....

you only hate and want this deleted because it helps more people do it for less money and more people doing it this way then buying your kit for the higher price.

i dont understant your post are you being sarcastic about the stock h/e delete, like i did... sorry i lost my sence of humor somewhere about an hr ago....in another thread

I'm just trying to help the guy out. I think you should delete your how to thats all. I'm not mad at you for anything, this is just the wrong way to install a HE and if 3 other people have it installed this way you should be slapped for telling them to and they obviously have no idea how to work on a car properly, just like you.......

this could get good... subscribed...

i had a bunch of people pm me asking me how i put it on. i put up picture's of how i put it on. if you don't like regular zip ties use metal ones if that doesn't satisfy you then use bolts + washers&nuts. which you already bought in my how to guide. there are many different ways you can put it on. i personally wanted to keep my stock h/e cause where i live it serves me a purpose to run the stock h/e and big cx h/e for 3/4 of the year in new jersey when it's cold. that is it. i've made over 300whp on a dyno that doesn't read high. paul with the 414whp turbo cobalt as my witness also darksun, laloosh, and many other respectable well known people. i also ran 12.485 at the track with my setup. i have all the proof. made both the official 1/4 times and also official dyno thread. i don't need to argue with you. if you feel your way is better then when people pm you then say my way(meaning your way is the best).

i personally think if you want to not run the stock h/e use flashbrandon's guide if you buy the big cx h/e from cx motorsports racing.

if you want to buy a full kit i'd personally buy zzp's kit.

if i was to buy the small cx h/e which i never would but if i did i would probably do it something like ccp did.

Dude not only did you use zip ties, you cut the crash bar! Are you crazy? Also I don't care how much power you made or what your car ran this is just about the HE and your apparently your ineptitude as a mechanic. If you wanna bring in your social retardedness by talking about what you did or who you know thats your problem.

do you realize how big those pic's are. and that that little cut is about 1inch by 1-1/2 inches...

look back at the pic's. it's a really small cut. however i even said to people if you don't want to do it i am not holding a gun to your head. it is just a way. if you don't think it is the safest way or you think that little cut will harm the car that bad. then don't do it. like i said i am not holding a gun to anyone's head

Anybody else done this?
Care to post a review :confused:

It's an interesting 'approach' for sure.
If it's a much bigger advantage having both the stock and the CX then this seems to be the only way to fit it in.

I have a CX H/E on the way and I really can't make up my mind...to eliminate the stock H/E or not :confused:

if you want to eliminate it then use flash brandons or w.e.

if you want to keep it use my way or get creative.