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Other/Misc: Jacking the car (Updated!)

Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:27 PM
  #26  
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Bump for Chad92's pics
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 01:55 AM
  #27  
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just jack it from the pin trail.. lol..
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 12:36 PM
  #28  
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What if your pulling the engine cradle.Then where do you put the jack stands??
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 03:50 PM
  #29  
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ive never used jackstands : / how stable are they? i just never thought they looked THAT secure. they would of been easier than doing 1 wheel at a time when painting my calipers on my maxima
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #30  
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You should start using them. They are entirely more stable then just a jack. Go spend ten bucks at Walmart and get a set.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 07:01 AM
  #31  
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so there isnt a center rear jack point? seems difficult to do it one side at the time...
imagine your front is on jack stands... you'll then jack up one side of the rear....put it on stand now the
other side must be very close to the ground... ? making it difficult to slide the jack under..

i wonder where dealer puts the lift pads under the car to lift it up....
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:11 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by centelred
dude the first time i saw this i thought you meant like "how to steal a car" in the title lol.

But as far as putting it up on a jack, i just learned something new with the e-brake. I wouldn't have thought of that before you said something. But now i feel stupid that i didn't, that's pretty dangerous.
walking darwin award
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:14 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by JT-KGY
so there isnt a center rear jack point? seems difficult to do it one side at the time...
imagine your front is on jack stands... you'll then jack up one side of the rear....put it on stand now the
other side must be very close to the ground... ? making it difficult to slide the jack under..

i wonder where dealer puts the lift pads under the car to lift it up....
I put the pads on the body right next to the tie down holes....the littl oval holes with flanged edges that stick down.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 11:59 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Maven
I put the pads on the body right next to the tie down holes....the littl oval holes with flanged edges that stick down.


Tire change place smashed mine while jacking the car up on the hoist
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 08:03 AM
  #35  
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So I bought this service manual thing from Ebay... it covers up to 2005 Cobalts
(seller told me up to 2008.. bastard!!)

Here's what the old manual said about jack points..






The rear jack point (according to the manual) is actually right at the center beam???
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #36  
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It makes sense because the Cobalt is a very light car, and that rear beam looks very stout. I'd use some type of load distribution plate in-between the jack point and beam though (like a thick block of wood).
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 10:30 AM
  #37  
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NO!!! First of all, that picture is not even a Cobalt, so your manual sucks. Second, the rear axle is a twist beam, and NOT, I repeat NOT designed to hold the weight of the car. That beam is NOT that "stout" at all. The trailing link arms of the rear axle are what hold the weight.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #38  
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Even though I've jacked my car up by the rear axle many of times because I need to get things done, I would say listen to Halfcent, the dude knows his ****.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 11:04 AM
  #39  
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my car has been jacked up and rested on the rear axle many many times. how is it not the same as when the car is just sitting in normal setup? usually the wheels and tires are supporting the rear through the rear axle, instead jackstands are doing it.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 02:17 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Halfcent
NO!!! First of all, that picture is not even a Cobalt, so your manual sucks. Second, the rear axle is a twist beam, and NOT, I repeat NOT designed to hold the weight of the car. That beam is NOT that "stout" at all. The trailing link arms of the rear axle are what hold the weight.
Came from one of those GM's service manual DVDs....
Maybe one of us can go to our dealer and ask for a print out of some sort...

Trailing link arms are fine but shouldnt there be a jackpoint running down the center line
somewhere? So that you can jackup the rear of the car using one floor jack?
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 05:18 PM
  #41  
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thanks halfcent...be using this when i do the first oil change

first one will be pricey...lol jack, jack stands, oil, filter, 1 1/4" socket
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 12:03 AM
  #42  
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The beam that connects the two rear wheels together is a "twist beam". It is not designed to, nor does it, carry the weight of the car. The weight is carried by the trailing link arms and the springs in the buckets. The beam is there for two purposes; first to provide anti-sway in the suspension, second to keep alignment.

I can prove it to you. Go out to your car and start jacking the rear in the center of the beam. You will notice it bend horribly before it actually starts to pick up the car. That's because its supposed to bend. It's designed to bend.

Does it work? Yeah, but you are ******* up your rear suspension by doing it.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 12:06 AM
  #43  
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let me correct myself, im not jacking it up by the twist beam. by the actual solid steel "axle" if you will
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 01:04 AM
  #44  
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if i'm not mistaken stu, we jacked my car up a few times by the center of the rear axle with no problems at all. i probably know every spot and combination of methids to lift a cobalt. i have a few dents to prove it too haha

then again my rear axle is kinda beefy...
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 05:23 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Halfcent
The beam that connects the two rear wheels together is a "twist beam". It is not designed to, nor does it, carry the weight of the car. The weight is carried by the trailing link arms and the springs in the buckets. The beam is there for two purposes; first to provide anti-sway in the suspension, second to keep alignment.

I can prove it to you. Go out to your car and start jacking the rear in the center of the beam. You will notice it bend horribly before it actually starts to pick up the car. That's because its supposed to bend. It's designed to bend.

Does it work? Yeah, but you are ******* up your rear suspension by doing it.

but would using your method in the 1st post require two floor jacks? especially if you
want to get the rear up in reasonable height?
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 08:02 AM
  #46  
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I used 2 floor jacks and noticed the entire body twisting slightly (passenger door wouldn't close properly).
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 06:21 PM
  #47  
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would these jack points work well with jack stands to store the car over winter? about 3-4 months?
if not can someone tell me where exactly,thanks
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 02:23 AM
  #48  
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how can you even get a jack under the front of the car when u have a front lip and lowered lol i no i cant
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by heathkidder
how can you even get a jack under the front of the car when u have a front lip and lowered lol i no i cant
I have a set of blocks that I drive up on that are sloped and raise the car about 4" off the ground
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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 04:34 PM
  #50  
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Thank you! I could never figure out where to put the jack so that I could fit the jackstand under to support the rear! Ive got my entire car on jacks off wheels now for tire rotation and brake inspection and oil pan change and brake/clutch fluid change and ottp stg1 mount install and K&N Filter cleaning!
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