2.0 LNF Engine: (MPx) ModernPerformance FULL Exhaust Install and Stock Removal
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(MPx) ModernPerformance FULL Exhaust Install and Stock Removal
Here you will find a full install of the ModernPerformance Exhaust listed Here at ModernPerformance
Here is the list of tools you will have to gather to get the job done:
A Lift will make life easier, but this can be done at home in a garage
x2 11/16 Wrenches or 1 Deep Socket and 1 Wrench of 11/16's
15mm Deep Socket
3/4 Socket
7/8 Wrench
1 1/6 Wrench
Channel Locks
1 Foot or 2 Foot Extention and 6 inch Extention
Swivel
Flash Light or Shop Light
Saftey Glasses
Saw with Metal Cutting Blade
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench for nuts that don't want to come out
Well I started at the back and worked my way to the front to remove the whole system exhuast system. This works great for re-installing the new exhaust.
Here is a pic of the stock exhuast or close to it:
Start by cutting off the rear section as seen here: (Saw and Saftey Glasses)
Undo all 3 Hangers as seen here: (With channel locks or by hand)
Remove the pipe and trash it or keep it if you would like, should look like this:
Next to remove the rest of the pipe you just cut which is this:
Remove the pipe above by taking out the 15mm bolts (You will need a swivel and small extention for the top nut) and remove the hanger with the channel locks or by hand:
Next get your 7/8's wrench and take out your o2 sensor seen here:
Then you will have 4 nuts / studs (15mm with swivel and the 1 foot or 2 foot extention) holding the downpipe to the turbo seen here:
(One nut/stud is not show in the picture)
After that you should be left with this and ready to bolt up your new goodies:
Putting in the new downpipe take's the 15mm with swivel and the 1 foot or 2 foot extention for the 4 nuts/studs that you just took out and put the new Downpipe in and bolt it up as seen:
Also you will add the Vibrant Performance to the back o2 sensor spot and use the 1 1/4" wrench and tighten, then also tighen the o2 down with the 7/8 wrench.
(Also as seen above tighen the 2 3/4 inch plugs for the 2 extra o2 bungs and make sure the plug in the EGT bung is tight.)
When these are complete should look like above picture.
Next up is the resonator pipe: (Gasket and bolts needed for this)
DO NOT HANG THIS YET, You cannot get to the top bolt / nut if you do!
Hang when your nuts/bolts are tightened.
Will look like this when completed.
The pipe that goes of the axle is next, looks like this takes the 11/16 wrench and socket or 2 wrenchs and the gasket along with 3 of the bolts/nuts mpx provided. Make sure to put this on the hangers after you get the flange bolted. Should look like this when completed:
Also take note to bend your heat sheild or it will rattle against your pipe as seen here:
The muffler pipe is next and last, this also takes the 11/16 wrench and socket or 2 wrenches and the gasket along with 3 of the bolts/nuts mpx provided.
HANG the muffler on the two hangers so its easy to tighen everything down and your done!
Will look like this!
Finished Product:
Hope this is helpful to everyone, I tried to be detailed and list everything with pictures!
Please leave feedback, or anytihing i might have missed?
Here is the list of tools you will have to gather to get the job done:
A Lift will make life easier, but this can be done at home in a garage
x2 11/16 Wrenches or 1 Deep Socket and 1 Wrench of 11/16's
15mm Deep Socket
3/4 Socket
7/8 Wrench
1 1/6 Wrench
Channel Locks
1 Foot or 2 Foot Extention and 6 inch Extention
Swivel
Flash Light or Shop Light
Saftey Glasses
Saw with Metal Cutting Blade
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench for nuts that don't want to come out
Well I started at the back and worked my way to the front to remove the whole system exhuast system. This works great for re-installing the new exhaust.
Here is a pic of the stock exhuast or close to it:
Start by cutting off the rear section as seen here: (Saw and Saftey Glasses)
Undo all 3 Hangers as seen here: (With channel locks or by hand)
Remove the pipe and trash it or keep it if you would like, should look like this:
Next to remove the rest of the pipe you just cut which is this:
Remove the pipe above by taking out the 15mm bolts (You will need a swivel and small extention for the top nut) and remove the hanger with the channel locks or by hand:
Next get your 7/8's wrench and take out your o2 sensor seen here:
Then you will have 4 nuts / studs (15mm with swivel and the 1 foot or 2 foot extention) holding the downpipe to the turbo seen here:
(One nut/stud is not show in the picture)
After that you should be left with this and ready to bolt up your new goodies:
Putting in the new downpipe take's the 15mm with swivel and the 1 foot or 2 foot extention for the 4 nuts/studs that you just took out and put the new Downpipe in and bolt it up as seen:
Also you will add the Vibrant Performance to the back o2 sensor spot and use the 1 1/4" wrench and tighten, then also tighen the o2 down with the 7/8 wrench.
(Also as seen above tighen the 2 3/4 inch plugs for the 2 extra o2 bungs and make sure the plug in the EGT bung is tight.)
When these are complete should look like above picture.
Next up is the resonator pipe: (Gasket and bolts needed for this)
DO NOT HANG THIS YET, You cannot get to the top bolt / nut if you do!
Hang when your nuts/bolts are tightened.
Will look like this when completed.
The pipe that goes of the axle is next, looks like this takes the 11/16 wrench and socket or 2 wrenchs and the gasket along with 3 of the bolts/nuts mpx provided. Make sure to put this on the hangers after you get the flange bolted. Should look like this when completed:
Also take note to bend your heat sheild or it will rattle against your pipe as seen here:
The muffler pipe is next and last, this also takes the 11/16 wrench and socket or 2 wrenches and the gasket along with 3 of the bolts/nuts mpx provided.
HANG the muffler on the two hangers so its easy to tighen everything down and your done!
Will look like this!
Finished Product:
Hope this is helpful to everyone, I tried to be detailed and list everything with pictures!
Please leave feedback, or anytihing i might have missed?
#3
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But the list of tools will be nice to know before you got under the car in the garage, and have to keep coming out to get tools.
Anyhow Thanks for checking it out!
#5
im just curious how much deeper sounding is this than just the muffler delete alone? and is the sound noticably louder or about the same im afraid to get it as im afraid its going to be to loud cuz muffler delete with downpipe was to loud for me
#6
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it will be deep. i love how mine sounds. im also catless.
YouTube - ‪Cobalt ss exhaust‬‏
YouTube - ‪Cobalt ss exhaust‬‏
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It has a great sound, kinda quiet when driving alittle louder than stock, then when you get into it well you know it.. Still not loud enough to drown out people talking or anything.
My opinion this is a great setup w/o the cat and has a great sound, and beats stock all day any day.
I cant seem to get vids worth a crap..
Also take note, that when you put this full exhaust on it will be super quiet for alittle while until broke in, then it sounds great!
Mine I almost didnt like, but when I drove it more it broke in and sounded better.
My opinion this is a great setup w/o the cat and has a great sound, and beats stock all day any day.
I cant seem to get vids worth a crap..
Also take note, that when you put this full exhaust on it will be super quiet for alittle while until broke in, then it sounds great!
Mine I almost didnt like, but when I drove it more it broke in and sounded better.
#9
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OHH ICANT WAIT TO LISTEN TO THIS VIDEO. I WANT EXHAUST SOO BAD. i LOVE MY CATLESS DOWNPIPE SO THIS SHOULD MAKE IT EVEN NICER.. ANY PROBLEMS WITH LOWERED COBALTS THAT YOU KNOW OF?
SORRY FOR CAPS, IMA DRAFTER SO ITS ALWAYS ON LOL
SORRY FOR CAPS, IMA DRAFTER SO ITS ALWAYS ON LOL
#17
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Sub'd.
Is it necessary to cut the stock exhaust? I was hoping to be able to reinstall it if I were to part out someday.Will it not come out simply by unbolting it?
Is it necessary to cut the stock exhaust? I was hoping to be able to reinstall it if I were to part out someday.Will it not come out simply by unbolting it?
#18
so when you but the full exhaust from modern performance they do not provide the three bolts or gasket connecting the down pipe to the catback? Seems idiotic if that is the case...
#19
Senior Member
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Great write up, About to install mine tomorrow. MPx turbo back, I will comment back on how it goes. As for the 2x o2 bungs on the down pipe, mine came with 2 bungs (angled and the fish hook) it DIDN'T however come with plugs, if you order the catback/downpipe combo it comes with all the nuts/bolts/gaskets for everything but the plug.
So I did some searching some people said old o2 sensors or spark plugs to fill the extra bung but what i did was just call up to local auto parts store and ask for a M18x1.5 oil drain bolt from a subie or beemer. They had a couple in stock for under 3 bucks figured it wouldn't go to far into the pipe being a oil drain bolt.
We will see if it works if not I'm sure any muffler shop has a bung plug they would sell you for a couple bucks.
So I did some searching some people said old o2 sensors or spark plugs to fill the extra bung but what i did was just call up to local auto parts store and ask for a M18x1.5 oil drain bolt from a subie or beemer. They had a couple in stock for under 3 bucks figured it wouldn't go to far into the pipe being a oil drain bolt.
We will see if it works if not I'm sure any muffler shop has a bung plug they would sell you for a couple bucks.
#21
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Followed this to a T and it worked perfectly. One thing misfitz didnt specify is invest in pb blaster / wd40. Those bolts on the turbo are on there tight!!! other than that everything comes off and goes on easily. Took me all in all about 4 hours, probably would have taken less if you could get a 1/2" torque bar in some of those nooks and crannies.
Tip sticks out the back of my sedan about 1.5" - 2"
Not exactly the angle but i took this right after install.
Tip sticks out the back of my sedan about 1.5" - 2"
Not exactly the angle but i took this right after install.
#24
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First mine is on a sedan so the bumper will look a little different. Overall the install was super easy! it worked best to hang the muffler then install the downpipe then fill in to the middle get everything bolted together then tighten down everything. The tip hangs a little on the left of my bumper cutout but not too far.
Now i have only had it on for about less than a month so its still breaking in. It sounds sick great deep tone without sounding ricer or crackly. I hate rasp so i got the resonator and muffler and it sounds good. The sound band from inside is an awkward one from my past exhausts on other cars but it could just be because its my first turbo car. Im not sure how it sounds outside though but drone peaks between 2500-3000 rpms. (mean its loud inside the cabin at those RPMs).
Cruising at 55-60 hardly any noise, Its comparable to stock just a little deeper in sound you barely notice it.
Cruising at 60-70 slight drone only when accelerating up a hill or something still not too bad windows down or air on or radio on you can cover it quite nicely and still doesn't get annoying.
Cruising 70-85ish (high 2000s to 3000RPMs) the drone is a bit louder the plastics on the insides vibrate a little. My vents above the stereo vibrate and my airbag on the passenger dash vibrates. Nothing a quick slap or touch wont stop but if cruising it will vibrate again...(turn up the radio you wont notice it)
Anything past 85 cruising you hear more engine and the exhaust tapers off a bit.
If you punch it the bulk of the exhaust tone inside the cabin is between 1000-3000 RPMs then you hear engine and turbo from 3000+ RPMs. I wish i could draw an arching graph of engine and exhaust sound inside the cabin for you.
Again i have had it for less than a month and the drone is starting to disperse at 3000RPM and isnt that bad any more. I cant wait till 6+ months down the road once its broke in a bit. I have heard once they are fully broken in there is no drone at those RPMs though.
Now i have only had it on for about less than a month so its still breaking in. It sounds sick great deep tone without sounding ricer or crackly. I hate rasp so i got the resonator and muffler and it sounds good. The sound band from inside is an awkward one from my past exhausts on other cars but it could just be because its my first turbo car. Im not sure how it sounds outside though but drone peaks between 2500-3000 rpms. (mean its loud inside the cabin at those RPMs).
Cruising at 55-60 hardly any noise, Its comparable to stock just a little deeper in sound you barely notice it.
Cruising at 60-70 slight drone only when accelerating up a hill or something still not too bad windows down or air on or radio on you can cover it quite nicely and still doesn't get annoying.
Cruising 70-85ish (high 2000s to 3000RPMs) the drone is a bit louder the plastics on the insides vibrate a little. My vents above the stereo vibrate and my airbag on the passenger dash vibrates. Nothing a quick slap or touch wont stop but if cruising it will vibrate again...(turn up the radio you wont notice it)
Anything past 85 cruising you hear more engine and the exhaust tapers off a bit.
If you punch it the bulk of the exhaust tone inside the cabin is between 1000-3000 RPMs then you hear engine and turbo from 3000+ RPMs. I wish i could draw an arching graph of engine and exhaust sound inside the cabin for you.
Again i have had it for less than a month and the drone is starting to disperse at 3000RPM and isnt that bad any more. I cant wait till 6+ months down the road once its broke in a bit. I have heard once they are fully broken in there is no drone at those RPMs though.
#25
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Nice write up. This will be my first exhaust I bought. I dint know they need brake in. Im going yo call modern today. They dont answer my emails or calls an the voicemail is full. Did u do any sound clips. An do u know who makes the muffler?