All Engines: MRZ crank pulley install


Tool needed:
jack and jack stands
serpentine belt tool
air tools(electrical impact works fine too)
sockets set
Materials needed:
MRZ pulley(which ever size u picked)
gatorback p#4050390 belt if you picked the UDP version
silicone
antisieze
motor oil
crank bolt(stock is a TTY)
step 1: jack vehicle in the air and remove the passenger side tire
step 2: remove fender lining if ts in the way(dont remember if i took it off or not)
step 3: use serpentine belt tool to take tension off the tensioner and remove the stock belt, the little hole is located right in the middle of the tensionor
step 4: use you impact to remove the crank bolt, i used a electrical impact rated 200lbs/ft, removed that bolt no questions asked
step 5: once the bolt is out you can wiggle the stock balancer out, i had a harmonic balancer removel tool with me, didnt need it, the stock one came out by wiggling it out, this is what you will see once its out

step 6: put silicone on the slot area on the inside of the pulley, you will know which im talking about when you see it, it looks like something slides in it, next put antisieze on the inside where the bolt will got hru, after that put some oil on the outer part of it to lube up the pulley for when it goes in, you can look at your stock one as it has oil on it too f rom the engine

where it says grease, put oil
step 7: wedge the pulley back in the way it came out, only goes one way since it has that slit in it, once its in;

^^thats the UDP installed

^^thats the OEM lightweight installed
step 8: put the bolt back on, and re-trq it on there, this part you will hear alot of, some say you can use it over, some say get a new one, i used the stock bolt, threw 200lbs of trq to it and called it a day, how ever here is the proper specs for it
First pass ............... 100 N-m / 74 lb ft
Second pass .............. 75 degrees
step 9: put your belt on, put lining back on, put everything back in
when you start your car it might idle a bit higher, mine idled 1200rpm, i let it sit for a good 15-20 mins and the idle settle back down to 800

start up
ac
Last edited by TommyP; Oct 3, 2012 at 12:41 PM.
Tools needed:
-Belt remover tool (for the belt tensioner, a rachet wont work, i tried, not enough room between the tensioner and the car)
What is the part number for the tool and where did you get it from?
Materials needed:
MRZ pulley(which ever size u picked)
gatorback p#4050390 belt if you picked the UDP version
This belt worked perfectly?
Thanks!
-Belt remover tool (for the belt tensioner, a rachet wont work, i tried, not enough room between the tensioner and the car)
What is the part number for the tool and where did you get it from?
Materials needed:
MRZ pulley(which ever size u picked)
gatorback p#4050390 belt if you picked the UDP version
This belt worked perfectly?
Thanks!
no rear o2...3 codes...
it was sitting there for a while...so it heated up, especially since it was already at 190 before i went inside to grab my cam
go to autozone, tell them you want to rent the serpentine belt tool for the tensionor, forgot the part#, and the belt fits, its a perfect fit, as in perfect perfect, it will put up a fight, but it fits
it was sitting there for a while...so it heated up, especially since it was already at 190 before i went inside to grab my cam
Tools needed:
-Belt remover tool (for the belt tensioner, a rachet wont work, i tried, not enough room between the tensioner and the car)
What is the part number for the tool and where did you get it from?
Materials needed:
MRZ pulley(which ever size u picked)
gatorback p#4050390 belt if you picked the UDP version
This belt worked perfectly?
Thanks!
-Belt remover tool (for the belt tensioner, a rachet wont work, i tried, not enough room between the tensioner and the car)
What is the part number for the tool and where did you get it from?
Materials needed:
MRZ pulley(which ever size u picked)
gatorback p#4050390 belt if you picked the UDP version
This belt worked perfectly?
Thanks!
Last edited by Jn2; Sep 24, 2008 at 12:58 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I just got done installing my udp and alt pulley and now when revving or driving the car makes a whistleing sound almost like a supercharger and i just wanted to make sure that this is normal?
I have the UDP on my 2.4 and I have no whistling sound. Noise wise there was no difference before and after. Is your belt rubbing on something? Look for rubber "dust" on the edges of the pulleys -- if there is any you have something not aligned -- is the belt in the grooves properly?
I'm thinking your thermostat is probably on its way out or something... my G5 runs no hotter than 195*F. The last time I saw my coolant at 219*F was when I had a damaged radiator.
Increase is too small to "feel". The only dyno I've seen showed 1-2 HP increase -- the truth is that could occur between 2 dyno runs. I like the UDP just because it slows the alternator and AC compressor down approximately 10% -- and I haven't had any problems.
i think there talking about an overdrive pulley on the tc u the only reason you would want an overdrive is if you have a big sterio or lots of stuff running off your battery if it is drawing a lot from it or if you get dimming lights if you dont have any of this and you want more power so to speak u would want an underdrive its not like it will give u lots but u will prob notice a difference



