no i just google searched mobile 1 oil price and amazon came up and i didn't realize it..

 

Hey now, I've found some great deals on **** sites.



Quick Craigslist find, might interest someone if they can locate more details on the axles-
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/1455346857.html

 

Just looking at the axles, those look like Driveshaft Shop axles. They look similar to my stage 2s.

 

damn i want those axles lol

 

hey fellas see i guessed i missed a lot this weekend as i was tied up in playing a tournament in NC for paintball but i got your message once i got to civilization Joe and as of right now i cant aford anything at the moment so this is going to once again sit on the back burner for now and Danew i hear what your saying about taking an aggressive charge im trying dude just had a string of bad luck right now but im trying to keep my head up so yea i just got in and i am tired so i don't know what eles to say

 

hey guy back in town sorry i couldn't make it sat. ill be here all week so hit the cell anyone looking to bay a interceptor i bought one friday and some **** with south so... anyway its up for 200or i trade it for a Aftercooler pump and 100 cash my IAT2 are at 140+ sometimes 179

 

re: craigslist hood and axels!!

They are Danew's!! I know who the guy is, contacted him and am picking them up for Danew tonight.

Not the guy's fault. Danew had left them there a LONG time ago and the guy never heard back from him.

 

i go through axels like a fat girl goes through cake!

 

I have quite a few NGK BKR7E's leftover if you want them.

 

are they good for the LS and how much do you want for them?

 

I had forgotten about his aftermarket hood, ha didn't put that together.

Glad I posted that! Time to **** with Danew.

 

what are the stock plugs..??

 

I have no clue

 

they would be 2 ranges colder, not a benefit to you

 

I just checked out the NGK website... Its showing iradium plugs and that seems to be what everyone else is recommending. The best plugs NGK recommeded, were LTR5IX-11

 

Anybody know anyone either interested in, or looking into getting an SS/SC let me know.

Not looking for the "you're selling your car" hype, I'm not saying that. No solid goal behind it, but I'm curious.

I love the SS and am quite content with it, however I'm not content with other things at the moment.

 

Hey guys.. I don't mean to be a burden or anything.. But I have an 07 Cobalt 2.0 SC and the car payment is really starting to get to me. I am askint 15k for the car. It is in Excellent condition, I have the 3inch intake and tb on it with tune and all, plus the stage 2 pkg. New tires, has about 44500 miles on it. Also has exteded warrenty until may 2012. So if you or anyone you know is looking and would be interested, please contact me. 757 274 4084. My name is Rob.


To all my old friends, sorry I lost touch, I am going through quite abit in my chaotic life right now.. and yea.. well not tryin to get to in details. I appreciate everything anyone ever did, and sorry for just kinda dropping off the face of the earth.

 

welcome back rob.... welcome back..... =]

 

Would like a little help. I followed the directions, and everything is a little messed up. Can somebody help me out?

Here's the problems:

1) The other day I decided to wire my Interceptor, wideband, and a sensor module for data recording into my car. Those who have wired an Interceptor into their cars know how easy it is. You run the gray cable from the gauge to the OBD2, and run the red wire from the 3 wire harness to a switched link that only turns on when the car is on. I used an Add A Fuse, and connected via the sunroof position in the fuse box. My Interceptor will not turn on when I start the car. I have to disconnect the OBD2 plug, wait a few seconds, and plug it back in in order the Interceptor to come on. Once it is on it stays on. When I turn off the car it will turn off. Link to directions I followed: http://www.aeroforcetech.com/files/I...AL_rev_2_6.pdf

2) My wideband gauge remains working while the car is turned off, even after several minutes. I have run the cable between the gauge and the sensor module. There is no way to screw that up. I also spliced the red wire from the wideband gauge and the yellow wire from the sensor module to the same line I ran for the Interceptor into the Add A Fuse I used for the Interceptor, thereby plugging 3 wires into one fuse. Each line is not only fused individually, but the fuse utilized for the Add A Fuse is slightly greater than the sum of all three individual fuses (5+3+1/2). I also spliced the ground wires from the gauge and the sensor module into one connection, and grounded that connection to the body, properly. The red wire for the sensor module is run through the firewall and connected to the positive jumper post on the fuse box under the hood. Also, the remote that is connected to the sensor module stays lit at all times too, just like the gauge. I wonder if the problem is the sensor module.

Wideband Installation Instructions: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1144.pdf
Sensor Module Installation Instructions: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1263(pdf).pdf



I can't understand this. Is there something I did wrong by splicing all the lines together the way I did? Should I seperate them into individual fuses in the fuse box? Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. I find it ridiculous that after working for 6 hours today and coming back to my car I find that the wideband gauge is still lit up and trying to get some readings. It was saying 16.0 with all the amber and red leds lit up while the car was not turned on, just like in the pic below.

 

Connor sounds like you have pretty tough problem to figure out...

 

Yep, hence why I went to the forum for help. And it's actually 2 problems. First is the Interceptor won't come on when I start my car. Second is the wideband gauge and remote to sensor module won't turn off.

 

So the wideband don't turn off at all?

Does the sunroof still work after you kill power to the and take the keys out, before you open the door to get out?

Because if it does then when you open the door it should go off...

 

I haven't checked. If it does open after I have removed my keys and opened the door, then what?

 

how can i test an aftercooler pump?

 

Ok, I have successfully identified and fixed my gauge wiring problem. All it cost me was a battery. Not bad since it only cost me ~$60 because the battery was so gone that I could not jump start the car.

Thanks to Wayne for asking about whether or not my sunroof opens when the park is off, keys out of the ignition, and doors open. The answer was, "YES." I then pulled the OBD2 plug for the Interceptor and everything went off and the sunroof didn't open. What I found out was the OBD2 was allowing everything to remain powered because I spliced all wires that were to be connected to a switched fuse together. The solution was powering the Interceptor to a switched fuse on its own, seperate from everything else. After a quick test of turning on and off the car, everything now works as it should, except for one thing -- the wideband gauge. The wideband gauge is not turning on because, according to Auto Meter, it was manufactured after all the other gauges and the sensor module for the Nexus Series gauges and is not recognized by the sensor module until another gauge is linked to the system. So, tuning will have to wait about a month and I will buy another gauge to get the wideband functional.