New from miami, fl new lnf owner
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-17-14
Posts: 249
Likes: 1
From: miami
New from miami, fl new lnf owner
New to the community, got myself an 09 cobalt ss 78K miles for 9K, love the car so far has its things i need to fix up good project car, and cheap, have tuned it and got downpipe and exhaust for it, love how it sounds, good daily driver, and hopefully in the long run reliable.
I am having trouble at times with the torque steer its crazy at times does anyone else experience this? Also our rims are 110 x5 wanted to buy rims but our pattern is almost impossible. I like the stock rims anyways...
I am having trouble at times with the torque steer its crazy at times does anyone else experience this? Also our rims are 110 x5 wanted to buy rims but our pattern is almost impossible. I like the stock rims anyways...
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-17-14
Posts: 249
Likes: 1
From: miami
Does anyone else have the RPMS like when coming to a stop throwing it into neutral rpms rev up to 1200 rpms and then drop to 500 rpm and then goes to regular around 800 - 900 rpm spot, or at idle it will have some play...? Is there a remedy to this to fix? I have cleaned out Throttle body, intake, cleaned MAF sensor and it still does it. Is this a cobalt ss syndrome? I don't mind it as it isn't that bad but want my car to run at optimum,
Senior Member
Joined: 10-20-14
Posts: 736
Likes: 5
From: Canada
My 06 SS/SC does the same thing..... sorta
I always assumed it was the computer taking care of the extra pressure built up from my supercharger to avoid a stall.
My rpms wont drop low, then bounce back up, but they will stay around 1100/1200, then drop to about 900 once I stop completely.
Even if I coast in neutral, the RPM's stay around 1100/1200 until I come to a stop.
I think this is just to keep the engine at a higher RPM and closer to the power band for when you get back on the gas.
If it dropped to 900 RPM while coasting, and you get on it in too high of a gear, it would bog, or possibly stall.
They used to bounce up and down MUCH worse until I cleaned my throttle body.
Not a mechanic, so I could be completely wrong, lol.
And you have a Turbo as apposed to a SC, so it could be something entirely different.
I always assumed it was the computer taking care of the extra pressure built up from my supercharger to avoid a stall.
My rpms wont drop low, then bounce back up, but they will stay around 1100/1200, then drop to about 900 once I stop completely.
Even if I coast in neutral, the RPM's stay around 1100/1200 until I come to a stop.
I think this is just to keep the engine at a higher RPM and closer to the power band for when you get back on the gas.
If it dropped to 900 RPM while coasting, and you get on it in too high of a gear, it would bog, or possibly stall.
They used to bounce up and down MUCH worse until I cleaned my throttle body.
Not a mechanic, so I could be completely wrong, lol.
And you have a Turbo as apposed to a SC, so it could be something entirely different.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-17-14
Posts: 249
Likes: 1
From: miami
your car likes coke ehh?
Also how would i go about if my back tires are getting eaten up any suggestions where i could get an rear axle beam for my car?? not alot of cobalt ss around is there an alternative? could i buy it from chevy directly??
Also how would i go about if my back tires are getting eaten up any suggestions where i could get an rear axle beam for my car?? not alot of cobalt ss around is there an alternative? could i buy it from chevy directly??
Last edited by mikeluis92; Oct 23, 2014 at 12:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-17-14
Posts: 249
Likes: 1
From: miami
what can i do if i want to check why my car has power loss? my cobalt should be on 24 psi, but its only at 20 psi of boost... Could it be a look somewhere? its hitting boost just not hard enough.... shed some light please.. im thinking do a boost leak test??
Why do you say that it "should be on 24 psi?" Do you have a tune with a specific pressure set? The pressure gauge reads "gauge pressure" not absolute pressure, so be aware of that. This means that your boost gauge reading will depend on the atmospheric pressure. Your turbo will output very similar absolute pressure each time. For example, if I stomp on it here in Phoenix the gauge will top out around 17-20psi. If I drive up to 8,000ft of altitude then I'll get 20-25 psi. That's why I take a lot of people's pressure comparisons with a grain of salt here. In Miami, I'd expect it to be difficult to get over 20psi without extra help.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-17-14
Posts: 249
Likes: 1
From: miami
well im on an dp, zzp intercooler, intake, exhaust mpx, e47 mix custom hptuned my tuner has my electronic boost controller at max, but my boost gauge only reads up to 18 - 20 psi.. and it'll sometimes spike 21... he told me its low on psi...
BTW, the fact that the turbo puts out similar absolute pressure each time is why our cars are not affected by altitude like naturally aspirated cars are. On the Pikes Peak hill climb, turbo is the only way to fly.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-17-14
Posts: 249
Likes: 1
From: miami
im guessing i may have to tighten my wastegate rod close it up a bit?? it has gotten completely loose before and i ve had to adjust it ,... havnt even looked at it in months but cars been runing fine, just need more psi for more power...
OK, then there might be something there. Maybe someone else can chime in. I'm all stock.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-17-14
Posts: 249
Likes: 1
From: miami
the electronic boost controller on the computer that controls boost is at max, but he says maybe the i need to manually adjust the rod of the wastegate to up the boost... how would i know if i possibly have a boost leak and its not the rod?