Nos
01-21-2009, 09:38 PM
#3
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yea NOS is a term ricers use since holley made the NOS kits, (nitrous oxide system).
anyways dont go dry.. its not a good idea unless you just go with somethin like a 35 shot. just get a wet kit for the 50 shot.
anyways dont go dry.. its not a good idea unless you just go with somethin like a 35 shot. just get a wet kit for the 50 shot.
01-22-2009, 01:40 AM
#4
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Wellll I am asian...so maybe it's in my blood to say NOS? But anyways, I was just asking anyways. I'll probably just do Meth or Alc cause the whole nitrous thing kinda scares me...
01-22-2009, 01:42 AM
#5
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01-22-2009, 01:47 AM
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Ehh, not as much. I think because I know so little about nitrous, and that fact that if you search "Nitrous Oxide" on youtube, you get results such as..."CAR WITH N20 EXPLODES!" and "CAR TURNS INTO HUGE FIREBALL FROM NITROUS." So...mehh. May infact be completely unrelated, but like I said, I know so little about it that it is a tid bit unsettling in my mind.
Besides, I like my car...I demolished a modded WRX and a new Mustang GT tonight. So as of right now I'm feeling relatively confident about the numbers I'm putting down.
Besides, I like my car...I demolished a modded WRX and a new Mustang GT tonight. So as of right now I'm feeling relatively confident about the numbers I'm putting down.
Last edited by sickboarder343; 01-22-2009 at 01:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
01-22-2009, 02:14 AM
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JUST because you said it...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMqXjd8OcsA
01-22-2009, 10:03 AM
#11
Actually, it's nitrous.
There are advantages and disavantages to dry vs. wet. For a small shot, dry works well if your MAF can compensate. This means your fuel system (pump and injectors) can easily make up the added fuel demands. With a wet system you don't need to worry about injectors (still need a good fuel pump though). The wet systems are a bit easier to tune (you really need a wideband and A/F ratio gauge with any nitrous system). The wet systems are also the ones you see on YouTube when they have a manifold explosion. This is usually when they try spraying off the line. For safety, you should never spray under 3k rpm. It's also generally a good idea to use a RPM window switch and lock out first gear.
There are advantages and disavantages to dry vs. wet. For a small shot, dry works well if your MAF can compensate. This means your fuel system (pump and injectors) can easily make up the added fuel demands. With a wet system you don't need to worry about injectors (still need a good fuel pump though). The wet systems are a bit easier to tune (you really need a wideband and A/F ratio gauge with any nitrous system). The wet systems are also the ones you see on YouTube when they have a manifold explosion. This is usually when they try spraying off the line. For safety, you should never spray under 3k rpm. It's also generally a good idea to use a RPM window switch and lock out first gear.
01-22-2009, 06:20 PM
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if nitrous is done correctly and with a little bit of reading anyone can get enough info to do it properly. A dry system is just as safe as a wet system if not more. Simply b/c the nitrous will stay a gas until the combustion chamber. Nitrous only turns into a liquid once it comes in contact with the fuel. That is why you don't spray down low (on street use) and one of the reasons you see explosions. Yes a wet system is "easier" simply b/c you have less parts to worry about changing. But if you upgrade you fuel system and are smart about when you are using nitrous dry is just as good as wet.
As for wet systems they are the safer bet for people new to nitrous. Its is more "plug-and-play", in the fact that you don't have as much tuning/calibration involved. But a wet system is more likely to puddle and cause a nitrous backfire then a dry system. However a dry system can freeze injectors and has the likelihood of running lean faster. Just do some reading and you will answer all of your questions with time.
As for wet systems they are the safer bet for people new to nitrous. Its is more "plug-and-play", in the fact that you don't have as much tuning/calibration involved. But a wet system is more likely to puddle and cause a nitrous backfire then a dry system. However a dry system can freeze injectors and has the likelihood of running lean faster. Just do some reading and you will answer all of your questions with time.
01-22-2009, 09:47 PM
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the only time you have to worry bout puddlin in the mani is when you try to spray off the line and bog the engine and a back fire occurs.. when you spray right at wot around 3k then the engine is suckin in enough air that you dont have to worry bout the puddlin.
01-23-2009, 01:35 AM
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YellowLTcoupe22....I realllllllllly like your carbon fiber wing insert. I went wingless a few weeks ago...but prior to that I wanted a CF insert baaaad
01-23-2009, 01:49 AM
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its actually painted black but thanks. i was gonna get the CF but decided to be a lil different and just had it painted. i get alot of complements on it thou.
01-23-2009, 03:02 AM
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Actually, it's nitrous.
There are advantages and disavantages to dry vs. wet. For a small shot, dry works well if your MAF can compensate. This means your fuel system (pump and injectors) can easily make up the added fuel demands. With a wet system you don't need to worry about injectors (still need a good fuel pump though). The wet systems are a bit easier to tune (you really need a wideband and A/F ratio gauge with any nitrous system). The wet systems are also the ones you see on YouTube when they have a manifold explosion. This is usually when they try spraying off the line. For safety, you should never spray under 3k rpm. It's also generally a good idea to use a RPM window switch and lock out first gear.
There are advantages and disavantages to dry vs. wet. For a small shot, dry works well if your MAF can compensate. This means your fuel system (pump and injectors) can easily make up the added fuel demands. With a wet system you don't need to worry about injectors (still need a good fuel pump though). The wet systems are a bit easier to tune (you really need a wideband and A/F ratio gauge with any nitrous system). The wet systems are also the ones you see on YouTube when they have a manifold explosion. This is usually when they try spraying off the line. For safety, you should never spray under 3k rpm. It's also generally a good idea to use a RPM window switch and lock out first gear.
01-23-2009, 03:28 AM
#20
If you have any doubt about the effectiveness of nitrous or feel it is unsafe or dangerous, stay the **** away from it. It works fantastically, most of the really fast drag cars out there use very large shots of nitrous in multiple stages, becasue for the efficency and tunability you can't beat it. The downside is the negative image that it has been given by the whole F&F culture assuming that
1) It burns, which it doesn't. Nitrous itself is non-flammable. A bottle may explode from the pressure if the safety measures are not in place (1500+psi), but it won't be a fireball unless you keep your bottle of nitrous in a tank of flammable liquid]
2) It blows up engines, which it doesnt. Power blows up engines, along with bad tuning and driver error. A kid with an untuned turbo kit or tuned for 9 psi and he turns it up to 15 will do just as much damage as nitrous can, the difference is that nitrous is easy and cheap to setup. There is no other way you can hook up something that adds 100+hp at the push of a button for under $300 on your car.
I hate nitrous noobs
1) It burns, which it doesn't. Nitrous itself is non-flammable. A bottle may explode from the pressure if the safety measures are not in place (1500+psi), but it won't be a fireball unless you keep your bottle of nitrous in a tank of flammable liquid]
2) It blows up engines, which it doesnt. Power blows up engines, along with bad tuning and driver error. A kid with an untuned turbo kit or tuned for 9 psi and he turns it up to 15 will do just as much damage as nitrous can, the difference is that nitrous is easy and cheap to setup. There is no other way you can hook up something that adds 100+hp at the push of a button for under $300 on your car.
I hate nitrous noobs
01-23-2009, 03:31 AM
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If you have any doubt about the effectiveness of nitrous or feel it is unsafe or dangerous, stay the **** away from it. It works fantastically, most of the really fast drag cars out there use very large shots of nitrous in multiple stages, becasue for the efficency and tunability you can't beat it. The downside is the negative image that it has been given by the whole F&F culture assuming that
1) It burns, which it doesn't. Nitrous itself is non-flammable. A bottle may explode from the pressure if the safety measures are not in place (1500+psi), but it won't be a fireball unless you keep your bottle of nitrous in a tank of flammable liquid]
2) It blows up engines, which it doesnt. Power blows up engines, along with bad tuning and driver error. A kid with an untuned turbo kit or tuned for 9 psi and he turns it up to 15 will do just as much damage as nitrous can, the difference is that nitrous is easy and cheap to setup. There is no other way you can hook up something that adds 100+hp at the push of a button for under $300 on your car.
I hate nitrous noobs
1) It burns, which it doesn't. Nitrous itself is non-flammable. A bottle may explode from the pressure if the safety measures are not in place (1500+psi), but it won't be a fireball unless you keep your bottle of nitrous in a tank of flammable liquid]
2) It blows up engines, which it doesnt. Power blows up engines, along with bad tuning and driver error. A kid with an untuned turbo kit or tuned for 9 psi and he turns it up to 15 will do just as much damage as nitrous can, the difference is that nitrous is easy and cheap to setup. There is no other way you can hook up something that adds 100+hp at the push of a button for under $300 on your car.
I hate nitrous noobs
01-23-2009, 10:04 AM
#24
Nitrous is an oxidizing agent and technically nonflammable by itself. It basically adds oxygen to the air/fuel mixture which adds power by increasing heat and pressure during the combustion process. That is why extra fuel (gasoline) needs to be added. If you run the engine lean, then excessive combustion temperatures that will cause detonation which will eventually severely damage the engine. The most important thing to remember is running lean with nitrous is very bad, it tends to melt holes into the tops of pistons.
Nitrous can be tamed if you add safety features to the system and if you can provide additional fuel to prevent you from running lean. This means proper tuning with a wideband to make sure you have the right air/fuel ratio.
Things to remember: 1. only spray nitrous at WOT 2. only spray above 3,000 RPM 3. do not spray when the rev limiter is activated 4. maintain bottle pressure between 950-1050 psi
Recommended safety features: 1. WOT switch 2. RPM window switch 3. fuel pressure safety switch 4. blow off valve and tube if the bottle is mounted in the cabin of the car (this includes the trunk of Cobalts since the trunk is not sealed from the cabin)
The better window switches nowadays have a built-in TPS activated WOT switch and gear lock-out. I would not run nitrous without a window switch. What it does is allow you to program the activation RPM and deactivation RPM. In other works if you shift at 6,200 RPM, then you set the window switch to start spraying at 3k (I use 3.5k) and to shut off at 6k (don't spray in between shifts). If you have a WOT switch, you'll stop spraying anytime you lift your foot from the gas pedal too.
This ain't the fast and furious where you push a button and things get blurry.
Nitrous can be tamed if you add safety features to the system and if you can provide additional fuel to prevent you from running lean. This means proper tuning with a wideband to make sure you have the right air/fuel ratio.
Things to remember: 1. only spray nitrous at WOT 2. only spray above 3,000 RPM 3. do not spray when the rev limiter is activated 4. maintain bottle pressure between 950-1050 psi
Recommended safety features: 1. WOT switch 2. RPM window switch 3. fuel pressure safety switch 4. blow off valve and tube if the bottle is mounted in the cabin of the car (this includes the trunk of Cobalts since the trunk is not sealed from the cabin)
The better window switches nowadays have a built-in TPS activated WOT switch and gear lock-out. I would not run nitrous without a window switch. What it does is allow you to program the activation RPM and deactivation RPM. In other works if you shift at 6,200 RPM, then you set the window switch to start spraying at 3k (I use 3.5k) and to shut off at 6k (don't spray in between shifts). If you have a WOT switch, you'll stop spraying anytime you lift your foot from the gas pedal too.
This ain't the fast and furious where you push a button and things get blurry.
