Ok the nitrous install did not go as planned so I have come q's...

Which wire is the TPS wire? We got readings from both the purple and yellow wire. When we have it hooked to the purple wire and programmed, the nitrous comes out smooth but then the silenoids click slowly while I'm at WOT. Is this the way Zex is designed? I thought it was one click for on and another for off...With the yellow wire connected it would click one for on, click another time for off, I think the throttle was only closing half way and then a final click for completely off the throttle. And that didn't seem safe so we stuck with the purple wire for TPS.

We were also having issues wiring up the MSD, Zex unit, and arming switch all together. Right now this is how we have it:
MSD yellow to Zex unit ground
MSD white to tach signal
MSD black to ground
MSD power to load post (accessory) on arming switch
MSD gray not in use
Zex unit power to msd power on arming switch
Zex TPS to purple wire
Arming switch power to positive post up front
Arming switch black to ground

With this setup the arming switch will turn on the MSD but not the Zex unit.

We also tried yellow MSD wire to power from Zex unit and black wire on Zex unit to a ground

No luck on either so I need your help!

I also have a small leak in my main nitrous line, how can I seal that up? And I also do not have a tap for drilling into the intake. What would u recommend for installing the nozzle without the tap?

 

Zinner the mod on here has a zex wet kit on his, hopefully he will see this and help you out... if not pm him

 

I'm thinking that I need a relay to get this to work because every place I've searched shows that I have configured it correctly. I'm just missing a relay, more specifically MSD relay PN 8960

http://www.msdignition.com/rpm_9.htm

is this the key Zex guys? answer me dammit

 

Oh wow, yes you need a relay for the MSD rpm switch because that can only hold like 2 amps and the zex kit draws like 15 amps.

My kit clicks a lot when the bottle pressure gets lower. I think that the zex kits sense the lower nitrous pressure and turns the soliniods on and off so you don't get to rich.

I don't remember all the colors of the wires, but I have my a relay in my system, the arming switch powers the MSD window switch and the window switch activates a relay to power the zex module, once the zex module is powered I use the built in TPS. Also remember the MSD window only acts as a ground.

I am not a wiring expert and it took me a couple interations of wiring to get mine right as well. I would get the ZEX kit working on it's own. Then add the the RPM switch to the mix.

 

I don't know how to help you but I just wanted to say this one thing...

Ninjas don't drive Ions...they are too cool for that. They drive Civics.

 

incredible so did your kit come with one or did you have to pick one up seperate? I have a used kit so i wouldnt know.

so I'm gonna pick up that relay and if I wire everything like this...I should be good...what do u think?



Oh and nice post there NJHK, I'll remember to only refer to you for turbo q's

 

That makes snese. See, i thought the zex "management" unit was a relay in itself with the solenoids. Yea, we definitely need solution for the nozzle.

Oh, and can you say broken bolt?

Edit: will NX fittings fit Zex nozzles?

 

When you get it all hooked up let us know how you wired everything. I would really like to know because I will have the same setup as you. As for the tapping problem i would just buy the size tap you need and use that. They are cheap and its the best wat to do it anyway. Good luck and take some pics!

 

yea I ended up buying the following:

new nitrous line (the old one had a ****** leak in it, I damn sure hope that wasn't there before I bought the kit) - $45

bought the MSD relay I posted above - $43

and I bought a tap which was like $8

I'm pretty sure we have the correct TPS wire, we just weren't sure if the silenoids were supposed to click that much at WOT but according to zinner they do click when the pressure is somewhat low and my bottle pressure was at 800psi so I'm going to assume thats why.

as far as the rest of the wiring, it will be done like the schematic posted above. I found it through google and it appeared to work for the person that posted it so I'm hoping everything will go fine there.

Unless I get everything in early I probably won't be touching anything until Saturday due to school and work but I'll keep you updated.

 

Well, Im thinking since we checked your bottle pressure before we tested everything, that it was much lower than 800psi. Because remember we were spraying nitrous like crazy, which would have dropped the pressure dramatically. I dont know if you checked it again, but i didnt, so im thinkg the pressure was a LOT lower which is why the zex would do that. Makes sense to me.

But it all makes sense with the relay, and should pretty much wire up exactly like the nx kit, cept the zex solenoids are alot cleaner with the wiring.

I myself, having worked on your install and seeing how clea*its go*g to b  am goRg to fA the sBt outtHmine tIs weekTd. I pe I d*t work*aturda  :nonoI

IfNou got=y messee let t know h you w0t me t pop doO thereUhis saTrday i=everyt ng is M by thA.

 

yeah if u can come on down then that'd be cool but come early, I wanna go to the big car show (HIN?) I forget which one it is...but I wanna be finished by then. My tap arrived today, nitrous line should be here tomorrow and relay on friday. And we'll need the smaller jets of course cuz if not its being tested with the 75

is the way you have yours wired up similar to the schematic above?

Oh and I still gotta see if i can pick up 4 10mm bolts from the dealership or from home depot, just haven't had time. I still can't believe I broke those...

btw with the colder plugs and 91 octane my car feels slightly slower...did u experience this or no? it could just be the wonderful electrical system freakin out my car again but I haven't flipped the switch back on since that night so I don't know.

 

I cant say that my car felt any slower. I get my work schedule tomorrow, ill let you know. But I figure I work from like 6-12 on saturday, so I can come by early still.

Maybe its because the boots or whatever arent on there tight enough because of the bolts we used. i dunno.

 

yeah possibly

anyway...sounds good just let me know whats up

 

I got my relay from radio shack!. My system is wired exactly like your diagram except your relay has 8 posts, a relay should only have 4.......

 

Yea I noticed you only used 4...I saw this diagram wired together with that relay on another site and just said **** it, I'll get what I know works. Even though that damn relay cost me $43 shipped!

Oh and since my main nitrous line had a leak in it I decided not to mess with it and just ordered another line, these lines are between $40-$50 bucks so keep it in good shape!

oh and this is what Zex had to say about the clicking...not sure if its really an answer.

I checked with Matt Patrick of our Zex department and he said you need
to
relearn the system. You will need to turn the system on and have
someone put the
throttle to WOT and while it is clicking press the button on the box.
Once you
have done that go through the programming procedure and that should fix
it.

oh one last thing, did u have any issues with your blowdown tube? i noticed there was no documentation on how to connect it to the bottle.

 

Turns out i work saturday morning, so im not going to be able to make it. Hopefully you get it finished. Only problem is risking the testing on your 65 shot.

 

ooo that sucks, I should be ok now though since I know what I need to do.

I think I'll be fine but I'm sure I'll drive around for a good amt. of time before I get the ***** to go WOT

 

keep it up, you've almost got everything worked out

I had been trying to contact AllTheDude for you but he wasn't answering me at all

when you test dont' have your bottle open, and just wait for it to bog down. then open it up and let her rip.

how are you heating the bottle before you put it in the car? try putting it over the drain in the bathtub and turning the faucet on hot, fill it to about 1/3 up the side of the bottle. in about 10-15 min you should be at least at 900 psi and it should be a strong enough base heat to hold around there for a short while.

what's your gap on the plugs too? you got he 7e's also right? for a little while she'll feel a bit uneasy with them in, and then it will smooth itself out and work fine.

 

yeah i got all the parts i need today so tomorrow i'll try to get everything together before I head out to HIN that night.

the only time we tried it, the bottle pressure was at 800psi before testing, so it probably dropped a considerable amount. i'll try putting it in the bathtub first.

yeah I've got the 7e's, we gapped them to .035

it seems to run smooth just...slower

 

Yeah no instruction.

You have to empty the bottle, unscrew the built in valve and screw in the blow down tube adapter.

 

43 bux WOW. I got one for like 5 bux at radio shack , but any automotive 40 amp lighting relay should handle it and they are in stock at every auto parts store.

 

Hey whats up....About the silenoids clicking, they are pretty quiet so you probly can't hear them over your exhaust. Just open your bottle and try it, its the one way to be sure if it works or not. Its not like its going to hert anything. If it works it works, eaither way your question gets answered. Good luck

 

ok wtf its not working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I wired it exactly how the diagram shows and the only damn thing I can get to come on is the MSD switch. Since I added the relay even the LED on my arming switch isn't coming on...maybe I just have a bad connection somewhere.

I'm lost, and pissed because I spent all day on this, AGAIN...and I missed HIN!

What am I missing cuz at this point I don't know how the hell else to wire this SOB...

 

The arming switch should have its own ground right? So if thats not coming on, youre either missing the ground connection, or the power connection. Also check the back of the arming switch maybe one of the clips came undone.

 

well the way I have it now the ground from the switch is going to post #4 on the relay

unless I'm reading it wrong and thats not supposed to be the ground wire going from the arming switch to #4...but I assumed black = ground so...

i'll try actually grounding the arming switch to something...