Nitrous Oxide N20

Pre-Spray

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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
Pre-Spray

what all do I need done to my car before I put it on the bottle? I am looking at getting a ZEX kit mainly for the simplicity. But again what supporting mods should I get before I spray?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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From: Woodbridge, ON
how big of a shot? and wat model is your car?

you may not neccessarily need supporting mods depending on the shot you plan on going for, but i do recommend:

wideband
bottle pressure gauge
bottle heater

good luck
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
08 2.4L all I have in the power department is an air box mod. I am looking at maybe a dry shot to start something like 25-50 then jump to a wet 75-100 after I get more mods.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 03:41 PM
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how are you going to supply the extra fuel?

wet shot is a safer bet
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kibosh3
how are you going to supply the extra fuel?

wet shot is a safer bet
troof
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 04:06 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
dry is safer for nitrous back fires b/c its never converted to a liquid it stays a gas until the combustion chamber. but you get less power. if i go dry i am not looking at much spray, maybe 50 but most likly 25-35 shot. Wet would be if i go over 50.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunkinuts
dry is safer for nitrous back fires b/c its never converted to a liquid it stays a gas until the combustion chamber. but you get less power. if i go dry i am not looking at much spray, maybe 50 but most likly 25-35 shot. Wet would be if i go over 50.
your theory is correct, but IMO balts don't do well with a dry shot.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 04:13 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
Originally Posted by joeworkstoohard
your theory is correct, but IMO balts don't do well with a dry shot.
also I think I wouldn't last at only 50 anyways. I think a 75 would be great though. but again what else would I need before I spray?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 05:36 PM
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From: Woodbridge, ON
Originally Posted by Kibosh3
how big of a shot? and wat model is your car?

you may not neccessarily need supporting mods depending on the shot you plan on going for, but i do recommend:

wideband
bottle pressure gauge
bottle heater

good luck
lol
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
I got that, but my main question I guess is do I need exhaust and intake to support the spray?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunkinuts
dry is safer for nitrous back fires b/c its never converted to a liquid it stays a gas until the combustion chamber. but you get less power. if i go dry i am not looking at much spray, maybe 50 but most likly 25-35 shot. Wet would be if i go over 50.
A 50 dry shot will not agree with your motor.

I would get a headerback and intake.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 07:54 PM
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I think i'd rather use a wet shot and risk blowing the intake manifold rather then use a dry shot and risk blowing the motor.....thats just me though. $200 vs $2000 **** up
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
Originally Posted by Brandon97Z
I think i'd rather use a wet shot and risk blowing the intake manifold rather then use a dry shot and risk blowing the motor.....thats just me though. $200 vs $2000 **** up
good point but isn't a dry shot more or less just a cooling affect? N20 is mostly oxygen.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunkinuts
good point but isn't a dry shot more or less just a cooling affect? N20 is mostly oxygen.
correct, n20 in small amounts can be used for cooling but a dry shot above about 20 will lean out ur motor really bad. the problem with tuning for a dry shot is what u do when you dont want to run n20. do it rite with a wet shot.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 08:39 PM
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You Should Be Good With A 50 Shot
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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as said before a dry shot will lean your engine out creating this big boom effect that results in a rod hangin from the engine. just go wet to begin wit so you dont end up spendin more money later on convertin to wet from dry. as for supportin mods.. you really dont need anythin other than one step colder plugs. a cai header d/p and cat-back will help turn out way more power thou.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon97Z
I think i'd rather use a wet shot and risk blowing the intake manifold rather then use a dry shot and risk blowing the motor.....thats just me though. $200 vs $2000 **** up
ur lucky u didnt blow the welds on the intake
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:14 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
would the Zex plugs work on the cobalts?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:16 PM
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if zex makes the right plugs for our cars it will. that would actually be better then any other plugs. your actually not suppose to run colder plugs wit n2o. its suppose to be a shorter ground strap instead of colder plugs but colder works too.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:31 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
Originally Posted by yellowltcoupe22
if zex makes the right plugs for our cars it will. that would actually be better then any other plugs. your actually not suppose to run colder plugs wit n2o. its suppose to be a shorter ground strap instead of colder plugs but colder works too.
on their website it just says spark plugs
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Raven SS
ur lucky u didnt blow the welds on the intake
i hate when that happens, the mad scientist has to go into the block to change those pistons you'll fry
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:46 PM
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and here i thought the F & F quotes were done with. Hell thats what 7 years ago?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon97Z
and here i thought the F & F quotes were done with. Hell thats what 7 years ago?
look, ask any racer, any REAL racer...
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunkinuts
would the Zex plugs work on the cobalts?
stay away from those as well...ive heard some bad stuff about them.
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 12:01 AM
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dont use zex plugs.

use 1 step colder NGKs and have a way to monitor knock retard. you may need to retard timing a bit.
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