wisconsin car club (balts and ions)
Street Attack is NO GOOD AT TUNING. Another cobalt fell victim to there shitty tuning, aka #4 done!
Im NOT happy about this especially since hes a good guy and didnt deserve to lose his motor because he got conned by a bunch of wankers telling him "We can tune it".
If you have a Street Attack tune PLEASE get ahold of Z Speed or I to fix your tune so that you dont **** your motor up. If you have one i suggest keeping out of boost.
Im NOT happy about this especially since hes a good guy and didnt deserve to lose his motor because he got conned by a bunch of wankers telling him "We can tune it".
If you have a Street Attack tune PLEASE get ahold of Z Speed or I to fix your tune so that you dont **** your motor up. If you have one i suggest keeping out of boost.
Good

I just wanted to inform everyone that if they have a tune from them to be careful... The post was a little on the harsh side because i had a couple to drink LOL.
its ok.. and its all understandable, i hope you didnt take by me saying, thanks for your concern as dick headish casue it wasnt if you thought that, im really thankful i have had a few guys tell me the say thing you said but, it hits harder the more times your hear it from a new person casue trust me I have around 5,000 invested and i sure as heck dont want it to go down the drain you know, im sure you'll be around with curt when i contact him after my build is complete, if there is anything that you think i should do to the motor other than im doing or that you think i should do throw it at me and i'll consider doing it if im not already thanks again
whats your build consist of?
I have a general idea of what would make a good build. 2 Things i would not skip over doing a build would be the hardened oil pump gear and neutral balance shafts. Not only because they are a good thing but also because they are not fun to do while the motor is in the car. A friend of mine broke his stock oil pump gear on his l61 and w/o a oil pressure gauge it would have been a disaster.
If it comes down to it finish the bottom end and get the motor in then finish the top end being that the head isn't all that hard to pull off. That way you can at least have your car on the road in a decent amount of time and spend a good amount of time working on the head. The more time spent on the head will result in better gains then rushing and not doing it right.
Also... if you have the motor assembled you can bring it to curt and i so we can double check all the clearances and tq specs so that YOU KNOW its done right w/o having to worry. If they are installing the motor then it would be tough to check it all over.
As far as breaking the motor in. There is lots of controversy over HOW to do it. My personal experience is to put high load, high vacuum on the motor within the first 10 miles. Basically take it in 2nd gear up to 3k rpms and coast down 3-4 times. Then take it to 4k rpms and do the same thing. Then 5k rpms, then 6k rpms then 7k rpms.... This does not mean WOT to those rpm ranges but put load on the motor.
When i did that exact break-in procedure on a 8.7:1 motor at 500 miles i had 180 psi across the board which was the same as my friends 9.5:1 motor after 5k miles. SO i think it worked well. PLUS when i tore the motor apart for oil pressure issues there was zero blow by detected by looking right underneath the oil control rings for any carbon build up.
All in all when you get the motor in make sure if you have to drive any significant distance (freeway driving) make sure you vary the rpms during the whole drive otherwise it will burn oil by 10k miles.
Hope that helps
I have a general idea of what would make a good build. 2 Things i would not skip over doing a build would be the hardened oil pump gear and neutral balance shafts. Not only because they are a good thing but also because they are not fun to do while the motor is in the car. A friend of mine broke his stock oil pump gear on his l61 and w/o a oil pressure gauge it would have been a disaster.
If it comes down to it finish the bottom end and get the motor in then finish the top end being that the head isn't all that hard to pull off. That way you can at least have your car on the road in a decent amount of time and spend a good amount of time working on the head. The more time spent on the head will result in better gains then rushing and not doing it right.
Also... if you have the motor assembled you can bring it to curt and i so we can double check all the clearances and tq specs so that YOU KNOW its done right w/o having to worry. If they are installing the motor then it would be tough to check it all over.
As far as breaking the motor in. There is lots of controversy over HOW to do it. My personal experience is to put high load, high vacuum on the motor within the first 10 miles. Basically take it in 2nd gear up to 3k rpms and coast down 3-4 times. Then take it to 4k rpms and do the same thing. Then 5k rpms, then 6k rpms then 7k rpms.... This does not mean WOT to those rpm ranges but put load on the motor.
When i did that exact break-in procedure on a 8.7:1 motor at 500 miles i had 180 psi across the board which was the same as my friends 9.5:1 motor after 5k miles. SO i think it worked well. PLUS when i tore the motor apart for oil pressure issues there was zero blow by detected by looking right underneath the oil control rings for any carbon build up.
All in all when you get the motor in make sure if you have to drive any significant distance (freeway driving) make sure you vary the rpms during the whole drive otherwise it will burn oil by 10k miles.
Hope that helps
whats your build consist of?
I have a general idea of what would make a good build. 2 Things i would not skip over doing a build would be the hardened oil pump gear and neutral balance shafts. Not only because they are a good thing but also because they are not fun to do while the motor is in the car. A friend of mine broke his stock oil pump gear on his l61 and w/o a oil pressure gauge it would have been a disaster.
If it comes down to it finish the bottom end and get the motor in then finish the top end being that the head isn't all that hard to pull off. That way you can at least have your car on the road in a decent amount of time and spend a good amount of time working on the head. The more time spent on the head will result in better gains then rushing and not doing it right.
Also... if you have the motor assembled you can bring it to curt and i so we can double check all the clearances and tq specs so that YOU KNOW its done right w/o having to worry. If they are installing the motor then it would be tough to check it all over.
As far as breaking the motor in. There is lots of controversy over HOW to do it. My personal experience is to put high load, high vacuum on the motor within the first 10 miles. Basically take it in 2nd gear up to 3k rpms and coast down 3-4 times. Then take it to 4k rpms and do the same thing. Then 5k rpms, then 6k rpms then 7k rpms.... This does not mean WOT to those rpm ranges but put load on the motor.
When i did that exact break-in procedure on a 8.7:1 motor at 500 miles i had 180 psi across the board which was the same as my friends 9.5:1 motor after 5k miles. SO i think it worked well. PLUS when i tore the motor apart for oil pressure issues there was zero blow by detected by looking right underneath the oil control rings for any carbon build up.
All in all when you get the motor in make sure if you have to drive any significant distance (freeway driving) make sure you vary the rpms during the whole drive otherwise it will burn oil by 10k miles.
Hope that helps
I have a general idea of what would make a good build. 2 Things i would not skip over doing a build would be the hardened oil pump gear and neutral balance shafts. Not only because they are a good thing but also because they are not fun to do while the motor is in the car. A friend of mine broke his stock oil pump gear on his l61 and w/o a oil pressure gauge it would have been a disaster.
If it comes down to it finish the bottom end and get the motor in then finish the top end being that the head isn't all that hard to pull off. That way you can at least have your car on the road in a decent amount of time and spend a good amount of time working on the head. The more time spent on the head will result in better gains then rushing and not doing it right.
Also... if you have the motor assembled you can bring it to curt and i so we can double check all the clearances and tq specs so that YOU KNOW its done right w/o having to worry. If they are installing the motor then it would be tough to check it all over.
As far as breaking the motor in. There is lots of controversy over HOW to do it. My personal experience is to put high load, high vacuum on the motor within the first 10 miles. Basically take it in 2nd gear up to 3k rpms and coast down 3-4 times. Then take it to 4k rpms and do the same thing. Then 5k rpms, then 6k rpms then 7k rpms.... This does not mean WOT to those rpm ranges but put load on the motor.
When i did that exact break-in procedure on a 8.7:1 motor at 500 miles i had 180 psi across the board which was the same as my friends 9.5:1 motor after 5k miles. SO i think it worked well. PLUS when i tore the motor apart for oil pressure issues there was zero blow by detected by looking right underneath the oil control rings for any carbon build up.
All in all when you get the motor in make sure if you have to drive any significant distance (freeway driving) make sure you vary the rpms during the whole drive otherwise it will burn oil by 10k miles.
Hope that helps

Since when did I say the 25th? I never said an exact day but that will work if it works out for you then I will be there.
reign has got it in for everyone in this thread it seems... say one bad thing and thats it for you. honestly im with aveoturbo on the freedom of speech part. If we aint disrespecting anyone he shouldnt have no reason to be on a banning spree. but whatever im sure I will get ban now for speaking my opinion and not offending anyone
now watch reign come on here and try to feed us some bull like "these rules are set in place for a reason...blah blah blah" if i want to support a fellow member then by golly i will support that member and as long as i am doing it in a respectful manner then it should be ok. but whatever 
am i repeating myself???
be careful what you say, he can smell these posts from miles away.

am i repeating myself???
be careful what you say, he can smell these posts from miles away.
Last edited by aveoturbo; Jul 15, 2008 at 04:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost



