You and me both.

 

yeah buddy. It's gonna be a blast when you have that thing done.

yes.............yes i do. haha. sleep is for the weak. drink water.

 

Sounds about right Matt.

Yeah anyone who doesn't have rotato mounts and calls whatever they have a traction mod is on crack.

Man if you actually knew how little I sleep

 

I tried out my bald 18s last night. fail. started to wheel hop a tad. I didn't get hop at all on the 16s, even in the rain, nothing. The 16s, are lighter for 1, and make me feel more secure at the track. I think out of 6 passes last time on them, well my 16" steelies, i got hop once, and it was very minimal.

Nothing wrong with a 2.2 60' and a 108-110 trap.

All I hear is good things about these rotated mounts. I may have to look into them.

 

I'm getting the roated mounts. With some hoping, praying and little luck they'll be here before or on Friday so I can install them




haha, I choose fun over sleep evertime........and then pay for it the next morning.

 

The bwoody traction bars do help quite a bit I didn't realize how much until I took them off

 

i'm shooting for a 2.0 on my street tires

 

Wish that in one hand and **** in the other. See which gets filled first.









Best I could pull was 2.2XX. I mighta had a 2.18X once. A 2.2 will get you 8.8ish in the 1/8th for a decent 1/4.

 

yea i've cut a 2.2 on these tires without warming them up.... i think i'll do a burnout to warm them up

 

Hey rallycobalt, why can't you run the DR's without mounts? Believe it or not, it is safer to run DR's without mounts.

 

haha, and i'm shooting for an 11.37 @ 180

 

there are these things that will shatter like toothpicks that i sort of need really bad..... they are called AXLES!!!

 

If you run a 11.37 @ 180 mph there is something wrong. 180 trap speeds = 7-8 second 1/4th mile runs bro.

 

i figure the horspower it would require for a no-traction-having cobalt to run 11.37 would make the traction suffer so greatly that's what it would be....lol.

 

I would absolutely love a 2.0 60'...

 

Well, I'm not going to get into this argument here on cobaltss.net. I know better then to waste my time here with car knowledge, no offense. (talking about the majority) Think about it. What happens when you have stiff mounts, and DR's. What is the next weak link in the drive train? At least when you have DR's and no mounts things can flex and move. This also means more power will be absorbed and equally distributed throughout certain points. The tranny is made of aluminum, and we know the axles are also a weak link. However, people who know how to drive a FWD car can save the axles. Just look at Paul's turbo swap LSJ. He was making well over 320 wheel horse power on stock axles for like 40k miles. The point I'm trying to make is, wheel hop does break things like transfer cases and gears and axles. But if you drive correctly and learn how to play with the gas you can help prevent that. Axles are much cheaper to fix then a transmission. I would rather break 8 axles over time then break 1 transmission.

Edit Post: Another words, if you have mounts, DR's, and upgraded axles the next weak link taking all of the horsepower is going to be the tranny. Some people with engine mounts and no tranny mounts can cause problems to. The engine can't move but the tranny twisted around. If you let of the gas when you have wheel hop with no mounts, no axles, and just DR's you will be ok. Trust me, I know personally because I watched a Redline pulling 1.8-1.7 60fts on DR's only pulling some nice times. Then he wheel hoped all the way to the 1/8th mile instead of leaving off the gas as soon as he heard the noise. Then again, I watched people with mounts, and without mounts break trannys and axles.

Even in a cobalt you would be in the 9s with a trap speed of 180, trust me haha. That trap speed is cracking me up bro. Could you imagine actually running a 11 second pass @ 180mph

 

As would the rest of the cobalt community... except for Stu, hes a dick.

Without getting crazy, I am hoping for a 2.2 60, 8.7-8.8 1/8th, with a 13.5-13.6 1/4 with a 108-110 trap. Thats realistic, no?

 

I would launch in 3rd

 

hahaha

 

the way i'm looking at it is this........ wheel hop is the leading cause of broken axles. eliminate the wheel hop, save axles. i'm only put down.... 250ish whp, stock axles should be able to hold that. when my tax returns come in, i'll be purchasing mounts, axles, clutch & flywheel, so i'll have a nice setup to run the DRs on. until then, i'm not going to risk it

 

If you guys don't run at least a 13.5 @ 109-110 mph I would personally be disappointed. I'm not joking, I honestly ran 13.6 @ 108mph on stage II tune and pulley. If track prep is decent and the air is good your all going to run great times with warm tires and correct tire pressure. I would not be surprised to see some 13.4s from you guys with 2.8 pulley/tune on street tires.

 

I dunno how much power I am putting down, but some have dyno'd over 300whp with this tune.

If I don't suck the launch I should be low 13s methinks.

 

Actually i can't. I've never been able to comprehend the differences in trap speed. It goes against logic. The trap speed for a given time should be the EXACT same for everyone. It's math. Vehicle weight and traction is irrelevant you would think. The math would be: how fast do you need to be traveling to go .25miles in XX.X seconds.

I know that the reason is because you're not going the same speed the whole time and it depends how long it takes your vehicle to get up to a certain speed which then goes back to traction, weight, etc. But it's hard to comprehend what's going on if a car's trap is WAY high and the ET is really low.

 

methinks too. I say you suck the launch, i stick mine, and we both run 13.4-13.5!

 

You seem to have a good tune putting down 250 on stage II pulley. That is pretty sweet man. I don't blame you for not risking anything.