after all day looking i found somewhere lol

 

i waaaannnnttt myyyy carrr bacckkkkkk

 

where?

 

uh i forget the name but its 150 for saturday night and i told my friend i will pay 125 if he will go because i dont wanna ride down alone lol he said he still doesnt know if he wants to go

 

Ok so guys that have the ky clutch... My clutch now has about 1-2 inches of normalness on the top... And then it goes wham to the floor the engagement is at about .5 inch so I just wondered if that's the nature of aftermarket clutches... Or if it needs to be bled more? Chime in thanks

 

what clutch did you get?

 

Ky ...stupid autocorrect

 

let me know how you like it i might get one im still undecided though is engagement super high?

 

As high as it can get man...

 

well atleast you dont have to push it far in to shift but starting has to be a bitch

 

And it's a slow process right now

 

yeah i cant wait to see how i do when i change mine out lol

 

The stock engagement is high...just low effort.

The stock LNF clutch is the lightest pedal effort in the world, any other clutch is more than likely going to be heavier.

When in doubt, bleed it some more

 

haha i wish it was harder... its the same for an inch and then its a tenth of stock... and if you get into that soft range.. your goin on a buckin bronco ride

 

You have a 2010 and need a new clutch?

I am sensing some user error

 

no user error.... 424 lb ft of torque will do that to a stock clutch..

 

I've ran 385-390 tq for pretty much the life of my car on the stock clutch(08, 39k miles, have been tuned since 100 miles)

Stocker will hold more than most people realize, people flooring their cars in too high of a gear/low in the revs causes clutches to be nuked.

 

ok master, so what am i doin wrong.. a 70 pull in 3rd and the clutch slips... this is a day or 2 after tuned until now... 3-4000 miles later... should i start that pull in 2nd?

 

Stop being a dickwad

Starting in 3rd at 70 isn't the issue, the reason more than likely why it was slipping was the fact that you didn't get the clutch hot before romping on it.

A clutch is friction material, like brakes, or tires, that needs to be properly heated up before it gets to it's full holding power.

Riding the clutch or not rev matching when you down shift can also cause the clutch to glaze which will cause it to slip too.

There's a lot more than being in the right gear at the right time...and you want the clutch to slip to an extent, so you don't flex the trans case and do this:



This is what happens when you do it wrong

You want to keep the shock to the trans to a minimum, it'll hold if you give it a second to catch, but things like no lift shifting once you start making some power with things that stick/hold is a recipe for broke ****

 

im so tired of seeing that picture.. and i realize that you said more than this but... i have actually never nls since being tuned.. and your from jersey right? ok do they have a thread...

 

It's my picture of my transmission

Good don't NLS after you're tuned, it's a real bad idea, ^ that happened literally after I NLS'd

And I am in MD all the time, but heaven forbid someone tries to help someone...go eat a bag of dicks


**** try to give someone a heads up and help em out and they get all upset.

 

im not upset,, its the internet.. and i must have missed the part where you were giving me pointers...

You have a 2010 and need a new clutch?

I am sensing some user error

doesnt seem like useful info

 

Blow your **** up I couldn't care less.

Been there done that

Apparently I didn't post after that post either



But since you already know, have fun with that

 

no big deal... thanks for the advice. the boys are gonna be mad they have to read thru all this haha

 

They'll get over it

What is it with Marylanders and their counties too?

You cross over em and it's like going to another planet