Turbo Ss Conversion Progress
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From: new jersey
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From: the glove
35R won't fit and is far too big, not happy till 30+ psi and too slow too spool on a 2.0.
The heads flow more than you think, we are looking at cams though.
But at the same time we want to know what we can do with the stock cams.
I am told 450 wheel is doable by the experts, We will see.
The heads flow more than you think, we are looking at cams though.
But at the same time we want to know what we can do with the stock cams.
I am told 450 wheel is doable by the experts, We will see.
i know this because i dam near swapped to a 35r with a bit smaller hot side....but then PR building and over all lack of shaft speed for the compressor wheel come into play.....i'm sure you know this tho
i test fitted one on my car with much success but then settled for my precision unit (SC3061RS) and i dont think i could be happier
i had my head flowed and it'll JUSTTTTTT barely move the air needed for 400...but i see the cam being issue before then....and when i do cams i'll have the head done, why not!?
i agree with you on not wanting to re-grind the stockers due to a imperfect base circle but cam blanks for the LSJ head are fairly non-existent, even thro my many GM contacts i had no luck....
who knows tho, you might have that perfect contact for such a task.
the 272's in DJT's car (before it popped) came in around 6500ish and it was quite the ride!
the turbo was in full boost and it would push you in the seat again when the cam came in, lotta fun!!!
i think a more mild cam would be my route, something that'll flow less on the peak but more under the curve....
the game just continues with this car......its a game we'll never win! theres always the "next step"
GL!
Last edited by 06black; Dec 11, 2007 at 12:07 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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The clylinder walls are thin Cast iron which is brittle in a thin aluminum liner with an Open Deck so there is no support at the top of the cylinders.
Block savers have been tried and failed.
The new sleeves are all steel at the top 2 inches so they are 4 times stronger than stock.
The stock pistons are pretty weak also GM recommends changing them at 300 HP.
So Our stage 2 Turbo kit will include sleeving the block and forged pistons.
what pistions do you prefer?and valve springs and valves nessesary? i will be turboing soon i am aiming for 325 that will be the max i will try to run....what did you guys do for the intake manifold..and congrats on the progess btw
The Cobalt Block is a styrefoam casting so it is very thin and light for Gas Mileage and efficient casting.
The clylinder walls are thin Cast iron which is brittle in a thin aluminum liner with an Open Deck so there is no support at the top of the cylinders.
Block savers have been tried and failed.
The new sleeves are all steel at the top 2 inches so they are 4 times stronger than stock.
The stock pistons are pretty weak also GM recommends changing them at 300 HP.
So Our stage 2 Turbo kit will include sleeving the block and forged pistons.
The clylinder walls are thin Cast iron which is brittle in a thin aluminum liner with an Open Deck so there is no support at the top of the cylinders.
Block savers have been tried and failed.
The new sleeves are all steel at the top 2 inches so they are 4 times stronger than stock.
The stock pistons are pretty weak also GM recommends changing them at 300 HP.
So Our stage 2 Turbo kit will include sleeving the block and forged pistons.
According to gm the stock cylinder liners are good to @600hp before they start distorting, as for the block, it is good to over 1000hp with proper prep, like billet crank, rods, pistons, and larger and longer head studs, along with the Bates strengthened cylinder liners.
the open deck design of the ecotec has proven to not be a weak point at all in these motors, unlike the honda motors (just an example of an open deck 4 banger) Gm even stated that converting to a solid deck was a waste and destroyed a few motors. Also I'm pretty sure the LSJ block was sand casted too just like the head is for higher strength which is why we don't need any modification of the head for higher boost, cept porting, cams, and valvetrain components. Already has built in re-enforcement unlike the L61 heads which need to be strengthened with studs placed into the roof of the combustion chambers to keep them from distorting.
Well anyway, I'm not really here to argue with you, Keep up the good work on the turbo setup. Looks like I"ll be finishing my car afterall since I already have eveything to build the motor anyway
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At 325 Wheel I would not touch the motor just our stage 1 turbo kit.
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I'm sorry man but I'm gonna have to argue with you there...
According to gm the stock cylinder liners are good to @600hp before they start distorting, as for the block, it is good to over 1000hp with proper prep, like billet crank, rods, pistons, and larger and longer head studs, along with the Bates strengthened cylinder liners.
the open deck design of the ecotec has proven to not be a weak point at all in these motors, unlike the honda motors (just an example of an open deck 4 banger) Gm even stated that converting to a solid deck was a waste and destroyed a few motors. Also I'm pretty sure the LSJ block was sand casted too just like the head is for higher strength which is why we don't need any modification of the head for higher boost, cept porting, cams, and valvetrain components. Already has built in re-enforcement unlike the L61 heads which need to be strengthened with studs placed into the roof of the combustion chambers to keep them from distorting.
Well anyway, I'm not really here to argue with you, Keep up the good work on the turbo setup. Looks like I"ll be finishing my car afterall since I already have eveything to build the motor anyway
According to gm the stock cylinder liners are good to @600hp before they start distorting, as for the block, it is good to over 1000hp with proper prep, like billet crank, rods, pistons, and larger and longer head studs, along with the Bates strengthened cylinder liners.
the open deck design of the ecotec has proven to not be a weak point at all in these motors, unlike the honda motors (just an example of an open deck 4 banger) Gm even stated that converting to a solid deck was a waste and destroyed a few motors. Also I'm pretty sure the LSJ block was sand casted too just like the head is for higher strength which is why we don't need any modification of the head for higher boost, cept porting, cams, and valvetrain components. Already has built in re-enforcement unlike the L61 heads which need to be strengthened with studs placed into the roof of the combustion chambers to keep them from distorting.
Well anyway, I'm not really here to argue with you, Keep up the good work on the turbo setup. Looks like I"ll be finishing my car afterall since I already have eveything to build the motor anyway
The Supercharged 2.0 is definately a Foam Casting, Looks like one of those Foam coolers you pick up at Cumbys, nothing to argue about here, 400 crank HP is the limit.
The Supercharged 2.0 head is a sand casting, Saab Turbo cylinder head, good to 600 hp before porting acording to Bates.
The early 2003 down Ecotec 2.2 2.4 blocks were sand castings, maybe why GM used them on there Phase 3 program.
Oh by the way, the new Sleeves will be 3.500 bore, so some extra cubes are in the mix.
Just a few shots of the install.
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]
Last edited by JANNETTYRACING; Dec 15, 2007 at 09:24 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
very nice man.
yeah come to think of it. i was just looking at my other motor, it is lost foam cast... oh well. but as for the other info, I dunno I'm pushing over 400 crank with no ill effects at the moment, and soon to be more just to see what this baby can take (I already have another motor with a lightened, nitrided stock crank, Custom pauter billet rods, and diamond forged pistons at 9.5:1) just need to get the head finished and new cams and it should be together soon, now the dilema, what to do about are weak ass tranny's
yeah come to think of it. i was just looking at my other motor, it is lost foam cast... oh well. but as for the other info, I dunno I'm pushing over 400 crank with no ill effects at the moment, and soon to be more just to see what this baby can take (I already have another motor with a lightened, nitrided stock crank, Custom pauter billet rods, and diamond forged pistons at 9.5:1) just need to get the head finished and new cams and it should be together soon, now the dilema, what to do about are weak ass tranny's
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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very nice man.
yeah come to think of it. i was just looking at my other motor, it is lost foam cast... oh well. but as for the other info, I dunno I'm pushing over 400 crank with no ill effects at the moment, and soon to be more just to see what this baby can take (I already have another motor with a lightened, nitrided stock crank, Custom pauter billet rods, and diamond forged pistons at 9.5:1) just need to get the head finished and new cams and it should be together soon, now the dilema, what to do about are weak ass tranny's
yeah come to think of it. i was just looking at my other motor, it is lost foam cast... oh well. but as for the other info, I dunno I'm pushing over 400 crank with no ill effects at the moment, and soon to be more just to see what this baby can take (I already have another motor with a lightened, nitrided stock crank, Custom pauter billet rods, and diamond forged pistons at 9.5:1) just need to get the head finished and new cams and it should be together soon, now the dilema, what to do about are weak ass tranny's
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Dyno schmyno!
what tells me is you got a rush of power and torgue at about 4000 rpm.
your intercept to GMS2 for torque 3600RPM and your well below that prior to the turbo spooling.
I am not slamming. it is a personal preference, design, and plans for use of the car that drives the over build. for street use and autocross I dont think this would do for most. for straightline? yeah it will get the job done pretty well.
THe proof will be when we see how these kits compare to an LNF GMS2 '08 which I think will be a truly nice matched setup to do autox really well and may not beat a kit car but will be the same or really close to the kit car. Time will tell.
I must say so that is a clean and nice setup. great work with stock components making the throttle body plate.
what tells me is you got a rush of power and torgue at about 4000 rpm.
your intercept to GMS2 for torque 3600RPM and your well below that prior to the turbo spooling.
I am not slamming. it is a personal preference, design, and plans for use of the car that drives the over build. for street use and autocross I dont think this would do for most. for straightline? yeah it will get the job done pretty well.
THe proof will be when we see how these kits compare to an LNF GMS2 '08 which I think will be a truly nice matched setup to do autox really well and may not beat a kit car but will be the same or really close to the kit car. Time will tell.
Your welcome to debate anything just get your facts straight.
The Supercharged 2.0 is definately a Foam Casting, Looks like one of those Foam coolers you pick up at Cumbys, nothing to argue about here, 400 crank HP is the limit.
The Supercharged 2.0 head is a sand casting, Saab Turbo cylinder head, good to 600 hp before porting acording to Bates.
The early 2003 down Ecotec 2.2 2.4 blocks were sand castings, maybe why GM used them on there Phase 3 program.
Oh by the way, the new Sleeves will be 3.500 bore, so some extra cubes are in the mix.
Just a few shots of the install.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
The Supercharged 2.0 is definately a Foam Casting, Looks like one of those Foam coolers you pick up at Cumbys, nothing to argue about here, 400 crank HP is the limit.
The Supercharged 2.0 head is a sand casting, Saab Turbo cylinder head, good to 600 hp before porting acording to Bates.
The early 2003 down Ecotec 2.2 2.4 blocks were sand castings, maybe why GM used them on there Phase 3 program.
Oh by the way, the new Sleeves will be 3.500 bore, so some extra cubes are in the mix.
Just a few shots of the install.
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Last edited by Asphalt Assault; Dec 15, 2007 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: the glove
Your welcome to debate anything just get your facts straight.
The Supercharged 2.0 is definately a Foam Casting, Looks like one of those Foam coolers you pick up at Cumbys, nothing to argue about here, 400 crank HP is the limit.
The Supercharged 2.0 head is a sand casting, Saab Turbo cylinder head, good to 600 hp before porting acording to Bates.
The Supercharged 2.0 is definately a Foam Casting, Looks like one of those Foam coolers you pick up at Cumbys, nothing to argue about here, 400 crank HP is the limit.
The Supercharged 2.0 head is a sand casting, Saab Turbo cylinder head, good to 600 hp before porting acording to Bates.
the head might be physically able to flow that but not with the stock intake and exhasut tracks.
(once again, not arguing with you, just stating my results for various tests)
and yea, i'm with you here. the block is most def a lost foam cast.
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Some of the Hurtles we have overcome for the Cobalt SS Turbo conversion.
Fitting the GT3071R, which is only needed for Stage 2.
Supercharger Delete Plates, and Throttle body spacer.
Modification of the intercooler brackets to fit SS models
Fabrication of the charge pipes to the Cobalt SS 2.0.
Designing and mounting the maf in the charge pipe for proper readings.
Mounting the blow off valve.
Alternator rotation, mounting, routing of the belt and tensioner set up.
Tuning with blow through maf, for use of Blow off valve to Atmosphere.
Tuning with 60 lb injectors.
Supercharger inlet pressure sensor Check engine lite and Reduced power mode.
Other various Check engine lites.
Sourcing a company to make the charge pipes to our specs.
All this is done to the Stage 1 kit 325 and will come with GT2560RS.
Stage 2 will be Taking the engine above 325 wheel safely and effectively using the GT3071R, Sleeved block 3.500 Bore, Forged Pistons, Zero Balance shafts, High Temp Valves, dual springs, Titanium Retainers and a good valve job.
We should be up and running on the Dyno for Feb with Stage 2.
Fitting the GT3071R, which is only needed for Stage 2.
Supercharger Delete Plates, and Throttle body spacer.
Modification of the intercooler brackets to fit SS models
Fabrication of the charge pipes to the Cobalt SS 2.0.
Designing and mounting the maf in the charge pipe for proper readings.
Mounting the blow off valve.
Alternator rotation, mounting, routing of the belt and tensioner set up.
Tuning with blow through maf, for use of Blow off valve to Atmosphere.
Tuning with 60 lb injectors.
Supercharger inlet pressure sensor Check engine lite and Reduced power mode.
Other various Check engine lites.
Sourcing a company to make the charge pipes to our specs.
All this is done to the Stage 1 kit 325 and will come with GT2560RS.
Stage 2 will be Taking the engine above 325 wheel safely and effectively using the GT3071R, Sleeved block 3.500 Bore, Forged Pistons, Zero Balance shafts, High Temp Valves, dual springs, Titanium Retainers and a good valve job.
We should be up and running on the Dyno for Feb with Stage 2.
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From: the glove
Some of the Hurtles we have overcome for the Cobalt SS Turbo conversion.
Fitting the GT3071R, which is only needed for Stage 2.
Supercharger Delete Plates, and Throttle body spacer.
Modification of the intercooler brackets to fit SS models
Fabrication of the charge pipes to the Cobalt SS 2.0.
Designing and mounting the maf in the charge pipe for proper readings.
Mounting the blow off valve.
Alternator rotation, mounting, routing of the belt and tensioner set up.
Tuning with blow through maf, for use of Blow off valve to Atmosphere.
Tuning with 60 lb injectors.
Supercharger inlet pressure sensor Check engine lite and Reduced power mode.
Other various Check engine lites.
Sourcing a company to make the charge pipes to our specs.
All this is done to the Stage 1 kit 325 and will come with GT2560RS.
Stage 2 will be Taking the engine above 325 wheel safely and effectively using the GT3071R, Sleeved block 3.500 Bore, Forged Pistons, Zero Balance shafts, High Temp Valves, dual springs, Titanium Retainers and a good valve job.
We should be up and running on the Dyno for Feb with Stage 2.
Fitting the GT3071R, which is only needed for Stage 2.
Supercharger Delete Plates, and Throttle body spacer.
Modification of the intercooler brackets to fit SS models
Fabrication of the charge pipes to the Cobalt SS 2.0.
Designing and mounting the maf in the charge pipe for proper readings.
Mounting the blow off valve.
Alternator rotation, mounting, routing of the belt and tensioner set up.
Tuning with blow through maf, for use of Blow off valve to Atmosphere.
Tuning with 60 lb injectors.
Supercharger inlet pressure sensor Check engine lite and Reduced power mode.
Other various Check engine lites.
Sourcing a company to make the charge pipes to our specs.
All this is done to the Stage 1 kit 325 and will come with GT2560RS.
Stage 2 will be Taking the engine above 325 wheel safely and effectively using the GT3071R, Sleeved block 3.500 Bore, Forged Pistons, Zero Balance shafts, High Temp Valves, dual springs, Titanium Retainers and a good valve job.
We should be up and running on the Dyno for Feb with Stage 2.
theres a perfect path under the car!
good luck guys!