New to me shoes and socks lol
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New to me shoes and socks lol
Before the wash just got them thrown on
In all it’s dirty glory lol if only it wasn’t monster truckin lol we’ll fix that next lol
This pic is after a quick shower after the test ride. Coil overs to come soon in the next month or so along with around 3” (maybe more if I won’t rub lol) and a new double din capacitive touch screen. Plenty to come in the next little bit it’s a work in progress lol
In all it’s dirty glory lol if only it wasn’t monster truckin lol we’ll fix that next lol
This pic is after a quick shower after the test ride. Coil overs to come soon in the next month or so along with around 3” (maybe more if I won’t rub lol) and a new double din capacitive touch screen. Plenty to come in the next little bit it’s a work in progress lol
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07MetallicSC (08-17-2018)
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It’s got zip axels it’ll never sit any higher than a 3” drop I wouldn’t have ordered all the parts to make it safe and possible otherwise I’m not an 18 year old kid I’m 35 so it’s not the first time I’ve ever dropped anything thanks for the concern though I’m gonna set it down 4 and as long as I don’t have any clearance issues it’ll stay at 4 I measured everything for 3 and found the coil overs that’ll let me go an extra inch so that’s what I’m gonna set it at for now until I get too old for it lol
#8
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getting aftermarket axles (that are actually the same as most parts store replacements) doesnt correct the driveline angle problem that destroys axles. the driveline angle was less than great from factory, lowering the car makes it worse. with a manual trans car around 2" drop you will start getting vibrations at heavy throttle caused by the axle starting to bind. if your car is an automatic you may get away with lowering it a little more as the axle centerline on the transmission is higher up, reducing the driveline angle. running rotated transmission mounts will help a little, but it doesnt allow you to go that much lower.
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The correction comes in with the rotated mounts I have and the spacers along with a slew of other parts not just the axles the axles were only mentioned as that’s what you mentioned was axles and cv joints I won’t do it if I cannot do it right that’s why there’s a few grand worth of parts laying around my house in storage closets and what not and I have to listen to my wife daily rant about why I have this or that if it’s just sitting. Lols I it’s all good at the end of the day it’s my car and my money and if I did do it wrong It would be one of those things and stuff happens but there isn’t anything going to change my mind about it I’ve went too far and spent too much to turn back now lol
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I wanted to appologoze if anything I said came off like an axx I didn’t intend to if I did. I just wanted to explain part of the process which I hadn’t as I hadn’t really had the need until now. As far as heavy throttle as of right now I do get on it some but once it’s low it’ll be low and slow been there and to low plus to fast equals too many dollars lol
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the heavy throttle part is just because it loads the engine up and rotates the transmission down, causing the axle angle to get worse.
i mention these things because ive seen it a lot, and experienced it to a point myself. im trained and am certified as a driveline specialist and i now built custom cars for a living. ive also owned my cobalt since 2007 and been part of the community since before then. my car was lowered 2" when i bought it and i fought to get rid of the axle vibrations. rotated mounts helped to a point, but not completely. i tried other things as well, nothing would solve it. after going through a couple sets of axles i put in some taller springs, the drop would have been around 1.25-1.5" lower than stock, and at that point the problem was solved. however years later those springs have sagged a bit, the vibrations starting to come back. ive also seen countless people on this site try and do exactly what your trying to do, and in the end they raise the cars back up after having problems with axles.
ive also spent some time figuring out how to make one of these cars very low for aerodynamic reasons as a race car. the only way i see to do it properly is lifting the entire engine up as well as rotating the trans up. doing that would allow the driveline angle to be closer to correct with an extreme drop. this is the case of solving one problem creating 15 more as so many other things need to be changed, like the exhaust, coolant hoses, etc. the other problem thats not addressed is the extreme angle of the control arm, a lower control arm is designed to be flat at ride height. an extreme drop would put the control arm on a huge angle, possibly causing ball joint bind up, as well as giving poor suspension geometry.
i mention these things because ive seen it a lot, and experienced it to a point myself. im trained and am certified as a driveline specialist and i now built custom cars for a living. ive also owned my cobalt since 2007 and been part of the community since before then. my car was lowered 2" when i bought it and i fought to get rid of the axle vibrations. rotated mounts helped to a point, but not completely. i tried other things as well, nothing would solve it. after going through a couple sets of axles i put in some taller springs, the drop would have been around 1.25-1.5" lower than stock, and at that point the problem was solved. however years later those springs have sagged a bit, the vibrations starting to come back. ive also seen countless people on this site try and do exactly what your trying to do, and in the end they raise the cars back up after having problems with axles.
ive also spent some time figuring out how to make one of these cars very low for aerodynamic reasons as a race car. the only way i see to do it properly is lifting the entire engine up as well as rotating the trans up. doing that would allow the driveline angle to be closer to correct with an extreme drop. this is the case of solving one problem creating 15 more as so many other things need to be changed, like the exhaust, coolant hoses, etc. the other problem thats not addressed is the extreme angle of the control arm, a lower control arm is designed to be flat at ride height. an extreme drop would put the control arm on a huge angle, possibly causing ball joint bind up, as well as giving poor suspension geometry.
#15
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Is it yyz that only drops the rear? I like the cobalts ride height but I would like to upgrade the springs one day but only drop the rear to level it.
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Kolt (08-18-2018)
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