bearings assembly
#1
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Join Date: 04-28-11
Location: Bel Air MD
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bearings assembly
Hi everyone
I made this thread to ask what the difficulty is to replace my front right wheel bearing assembly. i took my car to the shop to get it checked out and they said the low pitch hum is my bearings and there labor cost is to high. ive seen the bearing assembly a few times just by replacing my break pads. It seems like there's only 3 bolts to take it out and replace it but if anyone knows any more details on this please let me know! i have a 07 cobalt ss.
I made this thread to ask what the difficulty is to replace my front right wheel bearing assembly. i took my car to the shop to get it checked out and they said the low pitch hum is my bearings and there labor cost is to high. ive seen the bearing assembly a few times just by replacing my break pads. It seems like there's only 3 bolts to take it out and replace it but if anyone knows any more details on this please let me know! i have a 07 cobalt ss.
#3
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1. Raise car, remove wheel.
2. Remove caliper and tie it back so it doesn't hang.
3. Remove rotor.
4. Remove large 30mm nut from end of axle shaft.
5. Free splined end of axle shaft from bearing assembly (might need a 3-jaw puller if its really rusty). Don't have to remove it all the way yet.
6. Remove three bolts that hold bearing to steering knuckle.
7. Disconnect ABS wiring harness from bearing.
8. Remove bearing from knuckle and slide it all the way off the axle shaft. Be sure to support axle shaft so it doesn't hang or pull out of tranny.
Step 8 is probably the hardest. I've never had trouble with my old cars, no matter how rusty they are, but the Cobalt and its aluminum steering knuckles made the bearing practically seized into place. Some people use an air chisel to break it loose. I would up removing my entire steering knuckle and taking it to the shop where they pressed the bearing out of it.
For that reason, I used anti-seize in the opening when I installed my new bearing.
Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly. Most people recommend using a new 30mm nut and washer when you reinstall the axle shaft; my new bearings didn't come with new nuts so I had to buy them separately. Also be very attentive to required torque values, particularly for the 30mm nut. Its a lot.
2. Remove caliper and tie it back so it doesn't hang.
3. Remove rotor.
4. Remove large 30mm nut from end of axle shaft.
5. Free splined end of axle shaft from bearing assembly (might need a 3-jaw puller if its really rusty). Don't have to remove it all the way yet.
6. Remove three bolts that hold bearing to steering knuckle.
7. Disconnect ABS wiring harness from bearing.
8. Remove bearing from knuckle and slide it all the way off the axle shaft. Be sure to support axle shaft so it doesn't hang or pull out of tranny.
Step 8 is probably the hardest. I've never had trouble with my old cars, no matter how rusty they are, but the Cobalt and its aluminum steering knuckles made the bearing practically seized into place. Some people use an air chisel to break it loose. I would up removing my entire steering knuckle and taking it to the shop where they pressed the bearing out of it.
For that reason, I used anti-seize in the opening when I installed my new bearing.
Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly. Most people recommend using a new 30mm nut and washer when you reinstall the axle shaft; my new bearings didn't come with new nuts so I had to buy them separately. Also be very attentive to required torque values, particularly for the 30mm nut. Its a lot.
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DANRICKARD
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10-01-2015 12:08 AM