Car won't start has power - Cobalt SS Network



Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

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Old 12-05-2017, 05:32 PM   #1
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Car won't start has power

Alright so I've searched a hundred threads with no luck in finding an answer on this. 06 cobalt ss won't start. You turn the key and everything comes on fine battery is fine but you turn the key to start it and nothing. Can hear the relay click but it's almost like the starter isn't getting power. Took it to a shop and they spent 4 days on it without being able to figure it out. They tested the ignition switch, neutral safety switch and pcm everything is working and communicating but they installed a brand new starter and still no dice. The car can be push started and runs perfectly fine with no CELs but the key just will not start it. Anyone have any thoughts? I'm stumped and just wana get this thing running before it's too cold out.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:09 PM   #2
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Bad ground or electrical connection? Did you have the battery tested? My Son's Cavalier had a battery a little over a year old go bad.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:14 PM   #3
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Co-workers TC started doing this. Higher mileage. Battery tested good and it'd be super intermittent and the occasional starter motor grind.

Push started instantly.
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:29 PM   #4
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Battery tested out good. Shop said they looked at grounds not sure how true that is. I know I've read to check G103 and G105 i believe but I'm unsure exactly where they're located. Mine would occasionally not start about a month ago, could of been a coincidence but pulling the crank relay fixed it temporarily but now that doesn't help. Relays are good as well. It doesn't click or anything when turning the key
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Old 12-05-2017, 11:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksmith0769 View Post
Alright so I've searched a hundred threads with no luck in finding an answer on this. 06 cobalt ss won't start. You turn the key and everything comes on fine battery is fine but you turn the key to start it and nothing. Can hear the relay click but it's almost like the starter isn't getting power. Took it to a shop and they spent 4 days on it without being able to figure it out. They tested the ignition switch, neutral safety switch and pcm everything is working and communicating but they installed a brand new starter and still no dice. The car can be push started and runs perfectly fine with no CELs but the key just will not start it. Anyone have any thoughts? I'm stumped and just wana get this thing running before it's too cold out.
First off, any shop that spends more than 4 hours, little lone 4 days on a cranking issue should be out of business.

Bypass all of the control side of the circuit by taking a good jumper wire capable of flowing at least 25 amps to the 2 terminals shown below. This will bypass the Ign, safety switch and PCM. If the starter cranks over, let me know and i will talk you through the control side.










If the solenoid on the starter clicks and the starter does not rotate, the starter motor is not receiving enough current. Check the voltage drop from the battery + post to the battery terminal on the starter. Check the voltage drop from the - post of the battery to the starter housing. Anything over 1 volt for that distance and you have bad connections.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:30 AM   #6
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First off, any shop that spends more than 4 hours, little lone 4 days on a cranking issue should be out of business.
Agreed. They wasted plenty of my time and money.

Quote:
If the solenoid on the starter clicks and the starter does not rotate, the starter motor is not receiving enough current. Check the voltage drop from the battery + post to the battery terminal on the starter. Check the voltage drop from the - post of the battery to the starter housing. Anything over 1 volt for that distance and you have bad connections.
I will attempt this after work today. This might be a dumb question but how should I check the voltage drop? My meter doesn't have leads that are very long.
The shop did say they tried to jump the starter by crossing the poles and it sounded as if it wasn't getting enough voltage but yet again anything they said I took lightly.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:03 AM   #7
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If they were jumping the Battery terminal to the Motor terminal as seen below, and it still wouldn't crank over then there is a Battery or cable issue. If they were testing the battery with anything less than a Conductance type of tester I wouldn't trust their results of the battery being ok either.


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Old 12-06-2017, 05:10 PM   #8
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Okay hooked up the jumper all you can hear is the throttle body click. Nothing from the starter whatsoever
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:34 PM   #9
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Try this:

Turn on the key.
Put in the clutch.
Turn the key to the crank position then release to the run position.
Jumper the 2 terminals together.

Make sure you are in Neutral with parking brake set!
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:40 PM   #10
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BTW: Is the new starter still in it?
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:58 PM   #11
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Do I need someone turning the key while I jump the terminals? And no the original starter is back in it mostly because they didn't deserve anymore of my money and secondly because they said when they jumped the starter wires the starter engaged but it seemed "weak"
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:03 PM   #12
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No... Turning the key to the crank position tells the PCM you want to start, otherwise it may only crank and not crank and start when you jumper it.

If the starter doesn't at least click when you do that, look at the above pic again and unplug that connector at the started. That is the solenoid terminal. Jumper from the top terminal (Battery) to the terminal on the starter where the plug came from.

Again: Make sure you keep it in Neutral with the park brake on as you are bypassing the clutch switch.

If you still don't get it to click and crank over, clean all battery connections, the ground point of the ground cable and make sure the battery connection at the starter is good. This is assuming the battery is sitting at 12.6V or better.
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:54 PM   #13
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Alright so my ic pump is directly in the way of the stater. Can't seem to locate that plug. Connections do have a noticeable amount of build up though. Tried to clean it up a bit and no dice. Prolly gonna have to remove the starter
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:37 PM   #14
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Before you do that, since there was a new starter in there that still didn't work, put a voltmeter on the battery clamps, not the battery posts and read it before cranking and again when trying to crank. Yes, this will take 2 people.

Last edited by HGT; 12-06-2017 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:47 PM   #15
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If you had a high current inductive amp clamp and some 10 foot meter leads I would have you do some better tests but we have to work with what you have.
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Old 12-07-2017, 06:40 PM   #16
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Found the problem. This wire got tapped into. Signal wire for the starter. Car previously had an interlock on it from previous owner. The butt connector was poorly crimped and the wires came loose
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:04 PM   #17
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Congrats
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