Changed oil runs funky
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Changed oil runs funky
ok im not sure if there was some other thread with problems like this here for me to post in but here it goes anyway....i changed my oil, put castrol GTX 5w-30, 6.5 quarts. im getting a slight knocking noise, and it seems like my idle is shooting up and times and running rough. i looked at my exhaust and its shaking a lil bit and shooting out black water onto my driveway. any ideas?
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water is normal its condensation. and its black because your running rich/ your exhaust is dirty... its all normal
what kinda of car do u have, and did u put in syntetic? and not regular oil
what kinda of car do u have, and did u put in syntetic? and not regular oil
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i didnt unplug the sensor(not to sure what that is) but anyway my car is a 05 ss/sc, and im almost sure i did it correctly, and now that im looking i dont think it was synthetic ( i figured it would be alright considering the qts are 4$ a piece)
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synthetic is usually 6 bucks a piece
Dude That Is Not Synthetic! Its Regular. Drain That **** And Put In Mobil 1 Synthetic!!!!!!!
any synthetic will say it right on the front.. pure synthetic... drain it immediatly
this is the castrol synthetic
of course you want 5w 30
or mobil 1 is what i recommend. and so does gm
Dude That Is Not Synthetic! Its Regular. Drain That **** And Put In Mobil 1 Synthetic!!!!!!!
any synthetic will say it right on the front.. pure synthetic... drain it immediatly
this is the castrol synthetic
of course you want 5w 30
or mobil 1 is what i recommend. and so does gm
Last edited by silentd; 08-03-2008 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
Dude...only synthetic...are you insane?!? If cost is an issue at least go for the walmart synth or Q...you cannot run the ss/sc on semi synthetic or regular motor oil...EVER!
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You can get a 5qt Mobile 1 at Wally-world for like $21 then get an extra Qt. It is cheaper than buying 6 separate qts.
Last edited by drop-n-destroy; 08-03-2008 at 11:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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I really doubt it will hurt the motor at all if you need to drive it 50 miles or so . I would put synthetic back in it thou cause if it does have a powertrain issue ,GM will void your 5/60K mile powertrain warranty for running regular oil.
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well i drove it to and from work today, then changed the oil and filter....again, engine sounds alright but my exhaust is still a bit shaky and it almost seems like there could be a loss of power(not much i could just be paranoid)or maybe a slight hesistation, i cant figure it out. This is my first S/C car so im kinda new to all this stuff, ive been trying to read up on it as much as possible......cut me some slack
#18
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Your perceived power loss is all in your head. Driving 100 miles on regular oil will not destroy the motor as long as you weren't going ***** out with it.
Also, 6.5 quarts is too much. The car only takes 6 quarts. People get too ancy when checking the oil and see it isn't all the way to the top mark. You have to wait for like 15 minutes to get an accurate read on the oil after the car has been running.
Also, 6.5 quarts is too much. The car only takes 6 quarts. People get too ancy when checking the oil and see it isn't all the way to the top mark. You have to wait for like 15 minutes to get an accurate read on the oil after the car has been running.
#19
Your perceived power loss is all in your head. Driving 100 miles on regular oil will not destroy the motor as long as you weren't going ***** out with it.
Also, 6.5 quarts is too much. The car only takes 6 quarts. People get too ancy when checking the oil and see it isn't all the way to the top mark. You have to wait for like 15 minutes to get an accurate read on the oil after the car has been running.
Also, 6.5 quarts is too much. The car only takes 6 quarts. People get too ancy when checking the oil and see it isn't all the way to the top mark. You have to wait for like 15 minutes to get an accurate read on the oil after the car has been running.
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Believe it or not i think the manual actually says 6.5...it might be 6 dont remember. But none the less Synthetic is the only way to go with this cars. Even the base models deserve synthetic IMO. You fed your baby the wrong drink shes probably mad at you!
#21
Synthetic vs Non-synthetic oil
Hmm, where to start? The engine that you run is designed for 5W-30 oil viscosity range. That is the primary determining factor on what type of oil you should run. Standard oil has a higher crude value than synthetic (of course), but this will NOT kill an engine. Specifically under easy-driving conditions, and at a moderate temp (95 degrees ambient temp is moderate, as the cooling system is not taxed too much).
All synthetic oil is: a derivative of crude oil that includes chemically enhanced molecular structure that is more forgiving at higher temperatures, and provides less friction per viscosity rating. That is all it is, folks.
Now, the reason that synthetic oil is put in SS/TC or SS/SC coupes is because the added cylinder pressure increases the combustion temperature. The synthetic oil will withstand that added cylinder temp, as well as free up a miniscule amount of horsepower. It is a insurance policy against engine wear. It is true that synthetic oils will extend the life of an engine, but driving habits will determine engine life far more drastically than syntethic oil will. If an engine is highly modified, synthetic oil will help maintain the horsepower levels by decreasing overall friction, but the engine will still run with standard oil.
Now, if you have run your engine on regular oil for oh, say 50,000 to 75,000 miles, and introduce synthetic oil to it, you may notice leaks around seals that are not accustomed to the synthetic oil attributes. This has been known to occur in higher mileage vehicles, but not at the mileage you have.
Keep in mind, people drove around old Chevys, Dodges, and Fords with handbuilt engines (terrible tolerance controls) using standard 50wt oil for tens of thousands of miles in the 60's. The difference with modern engines with better tolerance controls is the 5w30 weight oil, not synthetic vs standard.
I would check the oil level first. Pull the dipstick again to make sure that you're alright. If that checks normal, your problem lies elsewhere, not in a debate of standard vs synthetic oils.
Just my dos centavos...
MLRTYME
08 Sport Coupe
www.wannaberacing.com
All synthetic oil is: a derivative of crude oil that includes chemically enhanced molecular structure that is more forgiving at higher temperatures, and provides less friction per viscosity rating. That is all it is, folks.
Now, the reason that synthetic oil is put in SS/TC or SS/SC coupes is because the added cylinder pressure increases the combustion temperature. The synthetic oil will withstand that added cylinder temp, as well as free up a miniscule amount of horsepower. It is a insurance policy against engine wear. It is true that synthetic oils will extend the life of an engine, but driving habits will determine engine life far more drastically than syntethic oil will. If an engine is highly modified, synthetic oil will help maintain the horsepower levels by decreasing overall friction, but the engine will still run with standard oil.
Now, if you have run your engine on regular oil for oh, say 50,000 to 75,000 miles, and introduce synthetic oil to it, you may notice leaks around seals that are not accustomed to the synthetic oil attributes. This has been known to occur in higher mileage vehicles, but not at the mileage you have.
Keep in mind, people drove around old Chevys, Dodges, and Fords with handbuilt engines (terrible tolerance controls) using standard 50wt oil for tens of thousands of miles in the 60's. The difference with modern engines with better tolerance controls is the 5w30 weight oil, not synthetic vs standard.
I would check the oil level first. Pull the dipstick again to make sure that you're alright. If that checks normal, your problem lies elsewhere, not in a debate of standard vs synthetic oils.
Just my dos centavos...
MLRTYME
08 Sport Coupe
www.wannaberacing.com
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i agree with rnjmur... pretty sure i remember correcting a service guy with 5.7L (whatever that is in quarts... too lazy to do the conversion)... but none the less, way less than 6.5 quarts... you almost have an extra litre in your pan... could be the cause of the roughness as too much oil is being slung around...
#24
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#25
The Cobalt SS\SC takes 6.5 qrts with filter change.
May take 6 qrts if your just changing oil and not filter. (and why would anyone change oil without changing filter too)
6.5 qrts is correct.
And person who wrote this thread ...Use Moble 1 5\30
And filter cant go wrong with Pure 1.
AC delco filters are junk IMO
May take 6 qrts if your just changing oil and not filter. (and why would anyone change oil without changing filter too)
6.5 qrts is correct.
And person who wrote this thread ...Use Moble 1 5\30
And filter cant go wrong with Pure 1.
AC delco filters are junk IMO