Xenozx

OK well today I woke up went to work no problems at all. Left for my lunch break headed to Subway and then went back to work and then left for the day and was driving a friend home. On the ride home I was cruising the entire time, never once went above 4000 RPM's, my check engine light came on. Ive had this happen twice before and usually the next day it would go out (I was assuming since I have a CAI, and it was kinda cold today (32 degrees) so I thought nothing of it. After dropping my friend off and getting back up on the main road I decided to punch it.

After punching it it accelorated fine maybe even a little faster then normal, but once it got to about 5000-6000 rpms my exaust started to pop almost as fast as a machine gun could fire. The acceleration was very jerky to boot.

This is not good, and I do plan on taking my car to the dealer to have the code read. I kept testing it on my way home, and by the time I got near my house ti didnt seem to be as apparent. It was practically non existant, even though my CEL was still on.

Anyone have any idea what this could be? when cruising you couldnt tell anything. only in hard accel could you see the problem.

I checked under my engine bay, nothing smelled funny and the engine / supercharger where normal temp (in other words I could hold my hand on top of both (super charger barely warm to the touch, and engine a little warmer then teh supercharger))

chillfactor

u might of blown ur ecu when i blew mine my engine coulndt rev higer than 2 grand and it mad that type of sound o and mine is a ls so i dont know if its much different of a problem

retrop

clogged cat maybe? would make sense if it only happens when you are trying to push alot of air out.

Xenozx

Yea, its strange, I remember reading alot of people having cat problems. I will have my car checked out asap.

mi6_

Doesn't sound good, hope it is nothing major. Things like this are why I always leave my vehicle stock. No having to worry about things you put on your car screwing it up and costing you more money.

I guess I am just too conservative!

Xenozx

damn.. Well I woke up to late today to take it in so I will aim for tomorrow, I am going to go drive it real quick and see how it is since its kinda warm out.

Xenozx

OK so I just drove to work. Problem was still there. Atleast until I got close to work. I let everything warm up before trying anything. I got about half way to work then opened her up in second gear. It started getting jumpy/poppy once I got up to about 5 grand, and got worse the higher you went. By the time I was practically at work I could floor it and it felt completely normal... WIth this information any more idea's what it might be before I take it to the dealer tomorrow?

Xenozx

My rotors appear to be getting warped since when slowing from 60+ seems to make the steering wheel shake. I have to take my car into the dealership tomorrow for the CEL and wierd acceloration issue, do you guys think I should bring up the rotors and see if they will replace / fix them under warranty?

Mercury

YES. Tell them everything. You always want to have record of mentioning problems so incase down the line something terrible happens, the dealer will see that you mentioned it before hand.

Xenozx

Will they take care of wierd noises coming from the passenger door too?

astrocrep

Yeah tell them everything... I tell my dealer everything, they document it, and then tell me they cannot find whatever the problem is. Atleast when it happens again, thats strike two.

Good luck, and get you rotors replaced under warrenty, I did.

-Rich

Brian MP5T

Single Cylinder Misfire.

No Biggie. The Dealer will fix you up.

cvenom2122

lol "slaps head" I had the machine gun sound once you remember jeremy when that mustange rev'd it at the light and i just got the intake and i rev'd it up also "the classic "machine gun" sound came from the car and the owner of the stang backed off, then we played it off and drove normal to the motel before the mall and reset the battery
fine after that , but like i sadi you need to start downshifting to help in the stoping so your rotors dont die so quick!

BlwnGP

I agree. Just a misfire, nothing serious.

On F/I cars it is not uncommon to have misfires on occasion. On my Prix I change the plugs about every 6k miles just to be safe. But, I am using Autolite 104s (2 heat ranges colder) and they are copper plugs-translated: copper doesn't last long on F/I cars but works great and is cheaper than iridium or platinum. BTW the are about $.99 each.

Xenozx

Kool, I will take it in to make sure.

It kinda sux, IM telling the person that my car is running funny and my CEL is on and they try to give me an appointment for Friday... I was like WHA? I argued them into a Thursday appointment. What happend to next day emergency maintainence appointments....

Anyway We will see what happends Thursday....

I would think a mis fire would only happen the one time, and then CEL may come on but the car would drive normal? Would it really continue to effect the car?


I was interested in replacing the plugs in my car, I want something better then stock, any suggestions?

Xenozx

OK I checked out www.sparkplugs.com

they have these listed

BKR6EIX NGK

They show the "OE GAP" as .40, I thought our cars where .35, so does this mean they need regaped to .35?

3fo893013L

your not over boosting are you?

Xenozx

I checked that last night. I did go over 12.5, but only seemed to reach up to maybe 13 or 13.5 max.

Didnt check today though.

SwizzDSMSS

Hell if that was Mitsu it means you blew a Head Gasket. hmm...

Brian MP5T

Sparkplug gap will not cause a misfire...

Xenozx

I realize this, I still have my stock plugs. I was just curious if I would need to regap if I bought those plugs and they where gapped at .40

what is the purpose of the gap, and waht does a bigger gap vs a smaller gap do?

Brian MP5T

There is Plug Temperature and Spark Temperature.

They are both diferent.

Plug Temperature has to do with the way the plug is made..

Spark Temp is basically how they are gapped.

Xenozx

Thank you Brian.


To add some more fuel to the fire. I was driving to work today and Guess what?

My check your engine light went off.... I was like Yeah!

But guess what? the problem is still there... Its weird though. I was driving for about a half hour. the first 20 minutes the problem was there and then usually it will go away after that. its very strange. If It where a clogged cat or something are there any signs I may see prior to taking it in tomorrow? Now I am going to feel stupid because my CEL is off and I am going to be explaining an issue that only seems to occur up high in the power band and tehy are going to be like "well you should go that high anyway..." and not fix anything. Or atleast this is what my old dealer would have done....

I guess I will just need to wait and see....

cvenom2122

i got ways to make you light come on

Xenozx

P1701 CEL code refering to the intake is what he said was the code I pulled? he also mentioned another code coming up 3 times due to ABS? IM asuming this is probably due to a spinning launch?

He said they checked everything that they thought could be wrong. this still doesnt explain why the car acts funny, because if I am running lean then I am running lean, it shouldnt cause my accelloration to jerk, and that part really doesnt make sense.

He said hes going to clear the codes and then I will take the car back and see if problem is still there i guess....


he said he will have alittle more information when I get there to pick it up.