Do you have a 3B Spec HID kit? Read this if you do.
03-09-2009, 03:56 AM
#1
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Do you have a 3B Spec HID kit? Read this if you do.
So tonight I went for a coffee on my break as usual. Driving to the coffee shop my HID's that I got from 3B Spec are working fine. When it's time to drive back to work I notice that my HID's are not working.
I pop my hood and check my fuse. To my surpise, I find my fuse is MELTED to the plastic thing that holds it in place. Once I get the fuse pryed out of its holder I noticed that the metal prongs are charred but the breaking point is still intact. I checked the other wires associated with the HID kit and they appear to be fine. I'm going to take things apart tomorrow (if I book off) just to inspect all the wires to ensure nothing else is melted or charred.
So with this said, if you don't want your car to burn to the ground I suggest you go out to your car and inspect your fuse.
Now my question is, Why would the fuse melt and not let go at the breaking point like it's supposed to? And would it be safe for me to put in a new fuse so I can drive at night?
I pop my hood and check my fuse. To my surpise, I find my fuse is MELTED to the plastic thing that holds it in place. Once I get the fuse pryed out of its holder I noticed that the metal prongs are charred but the breaking point is still intact. I checked the other wires associated with the HID kit and they appear to be fine. I'm going to take things apart tomorrow (if I book off) just to inspect all the wires to ensure nothing else is melted or charred.
So with this said, if you don't want your car to burn to the ground I suggest you go out to your car and inspect your fuse.
Now my question is, Why would the fuse melt and not let go at the breaking point like it's supposed to? And would it be safe for me to put in a new fuse so I can drive at night?
03-09-2009, 04:14 AM
#5
This does sound more like a fuse issue though.Then I suggest you replace the fuse with a high quality one from one of the companies I mentioned or add some other form of circuit protection.
Last edited by Maven; 03-09-2009 at 04:14 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-09-2009, 04:31 AM
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I should have also mentioned that I am in NO way bashing 3B Spec. or their products. They are a GREAT vendor and I plan on dealing with them again... I'm getting my funds together to purchase 3 additional kits in the near future.
I wasn't aware that fuses can go bad. What do you mean by circuit protection?
I wasn't aware that fuses can go bad. What do you mean by circuit protection?
03-09-2009, 04:34 AM
#7
I should have also mentioned that I am in NO way bashing 3B Spec. or their products. They are a GREAT vendor and I plan on dealing with them again... I'm getting my funds together to purchase 3 additional kits in the near future.
I wasn't aware that fuses can go bad. What do you mean by circuit protection?
I wasn't aware that fuses can go bad. What do you mean by circuit protection?
03-09-2009, 04:40 AM
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03-09-2009, 04:43 AM
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03-09-2009, 04:50 AM
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03-09-2009, 05:08 AM
#17
I wish I could go to bed! I have to go home, wash the SS, drop off my uniforms for dry cleaning, polish the boots, dye the belt, get a hair cut... so much to do before I report to another month of training tomorrow. All of this has to happen today... After i get off at six... and I get to be at work at 8 in the morning.
03-09-2009, 05:16 AM
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03-09-2009, 05:39 AM
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So lets say I change the fuse to something with a bit of quality SHOULD I be safe or is it something I should keep a close eye on or go back to stock?
03-09-2009, 05:46 AM
#25
**** i need to go to bed too... its 330 and i have court tomorrow in el paso at 1130
??? ive never seen any stock style fuse melt. or have any issues. any of the atc's, or minis like in our balts have always blown. honestly if the gm fuses are crap i wouldn't know where to look to get new ones. its not like theres many diffrent places for fuses. im sure most come from the same factories or whatever in china.
But i did just think of one thing thou a relay shouldnt draw hardly any current from the "remote" wire... i cant see closely on the pic but your constant should be hooked up to the big bolt on the fusebox
But i did just think of one thing thou a relay shouldnt draw hardly any current from the "remote" wire... i cant see closely on the pic but your constant should be hooked up to the big bolt on the fusebox
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; 03-09-2009 at 05:46 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost