2005 cobalt ss. my nephew bought this sight unseen and guess what came with a blowed up motor. he found a used engine and pulled the old one out himself. he could not get new engine to line up and slide into original manual trans. I offered to help and I have eveything lined up but will not slide into trans. he put the flywheel back on so I don;t know if I need to pull engine back out and start over or maybe this engine is will not fit. paper tag on block reads 22 oner
11644251 pad stamps are 07021609
76160709
trans stamp fz 55556305
616305se08163
I would really appreciate any tips or info as I am very old school and know almost nothing about working on front drive cars. I really don't want to drop the subframe method. thanks

 

Pics of the engine to help determine which engine he got? Also dropping the subframe is VERY easy. Just have to tie the radiator to the support right above it, unbolt and tie up the steering rack, unbolt the sway bar links, tie rod ends, and spindle, then take the four bolts out of the subframe and it comes right out. Sounds like a lot but it really isn't and it should save you some frustration in the long run.

 

Yea...we just replaced mine and dropped the engine in from the top....never again, was a pain in the butt to get the trans to mate with the motor. check and make sure that your clutch is aligned properly as well.

Also, pics of motor as mentioned above would help

 

i dropped mine in from the top no problem...actually had to pull it out a couple times due to bad clutch issues...now its out from the bottom since it got a new axles n control arms and trans..makes it a little easier

 

thanks everyone. I have a small shop no lift I don't see how I can pull it out even if I get it up high enough. maybe on a pallet and use the forks on the backhoe.

 

We pulled mine in a small shop....had a come along attached to a beam up top, if you are dropping it out of the bottom, then you just jack the car way up around it. or use the back hoe lol

 

I agree with dpaul in making sure the clutch is aligned properly. Hadn't even thought of that but when I replaced my clutch I was sent the wrong alignment tool so clutch wasn't aligned and therefore trans wouldn't line up. After fighting it for an hour finally looked and the clutch wasn't even close to being lined up you would think though that spending that much money on a clutch they'd be sure to send you the proper alignment tool

 

I got the engine and trans lined up where they are really close and I think I can start all the bolts on the bellhousing. I am not 100 % happy with this. I am used to shoving my muncie in to the back of small blocks and they seat all the way. I have a very small gap on the firewall side maybe less than one-eight inch wide. I hope we can draw it up tight and even.

 

I can't remember if mine had that or not, I was way too pissed with my TOB leaking for the second time haha

 

I had that same problem when my clutch wasn't lined up. After I fixed that issue, the trans slid right up against the block.

 

so we got the engine and trans lined up and all the bellhousing bolts tight. I pushed on the clutch pedal and there is no resistence at all. when I got the car the engine was in and all I could see was flywheel. I know this is hydraulic clutch but it feels like there is no throwout bearing engaging pressure plate. if motor and trans are tight then the clutch should be lined up but the limp pedal really worries me about moving on with the putting everything else on and then find out the clutch won't work. thanks for any help with this.

 

Did you bleed the clutch? Also, make sure that you are not leaking brake fluid from between the bellhousing and the engine. If so, you need a new TOB. That's what I am going through right now.

 

car is not running. bare block sitting in car. I do not know if there is trans fluid or not. I was hoping that when car is running fluid pressure will engage clutch. I know nothing about front drivers or hydro-clutch systems. I can't find a bellcrank so the throwout bearing engagement must all be internal. a car repair place took old motor out and nothing was labeled just piled in a big tub. we need a better sevice manual than the chiltons we have now. I looked at the library but no luck. thanks for the helpful posts I think we can get it together slowly just learning as we go.

 

EDIT: was this car supercharged or N/A?? This is how I do it on my 2.0L supercharged car, i am not sure if the 2.4L is the same (both are called SS) and lets say its the 2.0L when you put the trans back on i'm pretty sure you had to put the clutch line on the trans after it was installed (I would describe it like an injector on how it attaches, slides into the trans and is secured by a clip)


the throw out bearing for the clutch uses brake fluid, it is tied into the brake system, If you look on the transmission you should see a bleeder valve just like brakes do,

The only way I have found to get at it is to remove the whole fuse box and bracket, you can follow the line from clutch pedal to find it too

you bleed it just like the breaks, but its a PITA, and most people like to use a vacuum bleeder because a small amount of air always seems to stay.

Here is something you should also look at

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...ission-102830/

 

thanks for that info. I thought it would be a separate hydro-fluid system. I did see that bleeder looks like fun futher down the way.

 

I was able to get to my bleeder valve by just taking out the computer. It was a tight squeeze but do-able.

As far as the torn down motor, that how mine was when I got it back. Luckily my new motor was complete, but the wiring harness gave us hell.

The clutch line is mostly hydraulic, so you should be able to try to bleed the clutch. I may be wrong on that, so if I am, someone please correct me. That way, if your TOB is leaking, you can replace it before you get too much further.

 

does anyone have a source for sevice manual pages. we have a chiltons but need much better pics and diagrams. we need to see how the engine mou
nts go on and what size bolts go where. as I said before everything in a big tub nothing labeled. we don't have a clue what goes where. I looked on e-bay and it's all dvd or $145.00 for a real 2 book manual

 

Unfortunately I have searched and searched for a copy online of the service manual online and have been unsuccessful. I hope you have better luck than I do.

 

I have never heard of a book or DVD that shows what bolts go where, Chances are you can get them close enough and If you find that when you get toward the end and find you are short, just stop at fastenal..


or take a picture of what you want to bolt together and have people take a pic of their car

 

new problem with install. old 2.0 had 8 mm bolts holding the intake on. this engine has 6 mm bolts and 2 studs in top row instead of bottom row. is this a newer year than original 2005. I am worried that the smaller bolts are not good for supercharger application. I had to make studs for bottom row to go thru intake body. the head is saab and the block is saab which I think is correct for supercharge. any info would be much appreciated. thanks. I have some pics but I don't see how to add attachments.

 

You have to go to Photobucket and then link the img here. pics would be most helpful.

 

[IMG]http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll316/jeff2425/cobalt2.jpg[/IMG]

 

 

so does anybody have a thought on the smaller bolts. I think we have the correct motor. thanks.

 

it looks right. i'm not exactly sure what you're asking though... if it bolts up, then bolt it up. if the bolts are a little smaller on the head, just make sure they're tight. now if this is a saab motor, you MIGHT want to put the LSJ head onto it though