Kori

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...t-help-261387/
I'm having a similar problem to what's in this thread, I think?

My power locks got rained on and quit working about a month ago. Had a buddy of mine test them last night and determined it needs new power lock switches, but the actuator is fine.

This morning, I go out, car starts right up then 5 seconds later switches off and tells me "Engine Disabled" and won't restart. So I open the door, thinking I'll make sure I haven't left my headlights on or something, but nope. Get back in, and it starts right up but says "Engine Power Reduced" then "Ice Possible" though that last one is just talking about the outside temp, right?

I only live five minutes from work, so I drove it in, and it sounds fine. It stopped flashing the error message but the check engine light is now on. I think I'll disconnect the battery, then the ECM when I get home, but any other suggestions?
Is it possible that fiddling with the power door locks would cause it to throw that code?

2005 Cobalt LS coupe, 2.2L, roughly 112K miles, no mods that I'm aware of

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I love when people post tech questions and include ZERO information about the car that they own...

Kori

Does it not show in the garage? I can see yours!

Kori

If for some reason you can't see my "garage", it's a 2005 Cobalt LS coupe, 2.2L, with roughly 112K miles on it

Malicious intent

I hate how u always say dumb **** like that. Guys asking for help. It's simple. It doesn't relle matter much. Ask him questions u think would be helpful to answer his op. Like comon Man U say this to so many people and ya sometimes it's warranted. But their all cobalts. Anything u else u need to know to help ask.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

It doesnt matter.

A lot of people browse mobile.
A lot of people are not going to search to find out what car you have.
A lot of people are not going to search to find out about mods.

When you ask a specific tech question it is best to include all of the relevent informarion. This includes year, make, model, mods relevent to the issue....

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Really?
There are redlines, ions, pontiacs, base models, boosteds, swaps, etc. While is is mostly delta cars, there are kappa's here to. Furthermore, different years and engines can present different solutions to the same problem.
The more info you give out the most like you are to get the help you need.

I am trying to help the guy out, I am helpful when I can be; I helped you. Part of getting help is making it easier for those that can offer it do so by being as descriptive as possible.

Kori

Okay, two things, BlackSS.... A: I'm new here, so you could explain possible situations in a less pissy tone and B: you're not being even a little helpful.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

When you started to drive it was it still flashing the engine power reduced warning?

Seriously? It is the internet; there is no tone. Since I am not helpful then good luck with your issue.

Malicious intent

Ur right I guess. It's just sometimes u come off wrong I guess. Just gotta word it slightly different so people don't get offended. U do offer good help with topics blackss

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Seriously? It is the internet; there is no tone. Since I am not helpful then good luck with your issue.

Kori

As I said, no, the error message stopped flashing.
I think I'll wait for somebody else to answer since you're in denial about tone existing and didn't even read the post...

Malicious intent

Blackss does always give sound advice man. He seems to know his stuff fairly we'll. and has helped me once or twice as stated above. Help him help u. We're all friends here

Kori

I would love to. It'd be nice if he didn't introduce himself by jumping down my throat though. That's pretty unwelcoming. But, he's taken offense to my taking offense now, so I'll just wait for somebody else :P

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

No much we can do without codes, engine power reduced happens for all kinds of reasons.

Dude welcome to the internet, you read the tone in your head. Also your first post had no information about model, year, miles, mods. I browse on my mobile and can't see your garage. Also long blocks of text are difficult to read, break things up keep it short, simple, and remove the fluff (unless in the lounge chat area then no one cares there)

Kori

That was a lot more helpful, thank you
I've edited the OP so it's more usable.

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

The tone that you hear is the tone that YOU hear. I know Corey. Know him pretty well. Enough to know that he's trying to pull enough information from you to help. How you read it is your choice.

It starts with what you drive. Contrary to what the grammer failure above has to say it DOES matter. A car is not a car is not a car. Why? Because if I give you the answer for an LNF and you're driving an LAP then not only have I possibly not helped, but in all likelyhood I've wasted time for both of us.

Now that we've established that -

Don't disconnect the battery. Don't lose the codes. That's more harmful than helpful. Go to Autozone or O'Reilly's or Pep Boys or whatever, and get the codes read. It is free. Write them down then bring them here. Of anything you can do, that's the most helpful. And have them check the condition of the battery and alternator. I suspect you have a charging system fault or a short someplace. SO, to your original question, fidling with the door locks could possibly have caused a short.

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

OP were all here to help ya out ... take a chill pill, and relax.

Patience is your friend, your new here so gettin all defensive isnt going to put a good taste in anyones mouth.

Do what Sox said and get us the codes and we can try any help you get to the bottom of this.


on a side note, todays work chat just came up in here and laid down the law lmao

Kori

Hopefully it'll start up fine after work. If so, I'll run it down to Pep Boys and get the codes pulled.
Is a short something that will require the ECM to be replaced? It freaked out when the power steering motor went out, but hasn't thrown any codes since replacing it, up until now. Hoping it'll be something small that can be replaced and just reset the ECM.

Also, ordered the new switches for my door locks. Assuming it's safer to unhook the ECM and/or battery while replacing those in the future?

Squints

iTrader: (4)

As I sometimes get angry with the way some people treat new members I stand behind these guys. We aren't trying to come off rude but majority of us are hiding out at work on our phone. There are a lot of factors and without codes or symptoms, weather, other minor details we can't give you a good answer.

Squints

iTrader: (4)

Honestly I would suggest unplugging your power locks on the driver side. It sounds like a possible grounding issue causing a short. But with the way our cars are wired it could be anything.

Kori

That sounds like a valid possibility, since we removed the entire panel and plugged it back in. They had quit working after I left the windows open in the rain, once >.>

I'll still get the codes run and let you guys know, before doing anything else. Hoping that putting those new switches in will take care of the short.

As to the weather? Cold as *****... as my car told me this morning "Ice is possible"! Gee, thanks, car. I know my Olds' power locks and windows used to quit in extremely cold temperatures. Do the Cobalts do that too?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I've yet to have them fail in the cold (they've functioned at -5F no issue)

Kori

Didn't flash any messages at me when I started it up after work, and of course, the check engine light went off the instant I went to drive it in to Pep Boy's service pay...

The only error code it came up with was P0601
That seems harmless enough? Guess I'll replace the switches and hope never to hear from it again.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Did you look up what the P0601 code is? Or just guess its harmless because it started without issue? (Not a walking database of OBD2 codes so I have no clue what causes that fault code)