OK so like IM having a few issues with my cobalt right now. As some of you may know I just had a Pacesetter header installed last week. Its great, however I do have a HUGE exaust leak right now... The gasket inbetween where the catback and downpipe bolt up is leaking air REALLY bad. I will be taking it in Friday to have that fixed.

Anyway, that leads me to my problems...


1.) I have a 2.8 inch pulley. Before the header install/exaust leak I was boosting @ max 17 PSI.... I just ran my car to the end of 3rd gear a moment ago (its warmer out then it was a few days ago when I peaked at 17) and just hit 18.6 PSI.... So like, I am way higher in the PSI then I should be right?

Now could the exaust leak cause this to happen? Would a header cause this? I though a header would reduce PSI, yet I saw a HUGE Jump....

2.) I replaced my brakes 2 weeks ago. As of right now my brakes dont feel as firm as I think they should. I have Greenstuff pads, and resurfaced rotors, yet the brakes dont seem to have the same stopping force as when I bought the car.

Also my clutch.... I believe it runs off brake fluid too right? Well it seems to be very loose (only word I can think of to describe it) like just under normal shifting it seems to go in so smoothly, and it never did that before. It just feels lose comepared to what I am used too.

Also to note, when sitting at a redlight and the light turns green, I have my foot all the way down on the clutch and try to put the car into first and it wont go. I have to come off the clutch press it back in and then it will go in perfectly fine.

3.) Was I supose to bleed my brake fluid? Cause I didnt do that step? If I wanted to bleed all the DOT 3 fluid currently in my car would it bleed out the brake lines and clutch and could I replace it with DOT4? Ive heard sometimes the fluid can get really gunky, as far as the fluid thats in use?

Also, I took the cap off my brake fluid resivoir, and can barely see any fluid. I cant even tell if theres any in there? Is there a way to check?

Also, now when I am @ 40 MPH and floor it, I can shift @ 7000K and then my clutch will slip really bad. this like started over night. I have never had my clutch slip on me once, and now all of a sudden, every time I shift into third while driving fast it will slip really bad

Anyway, all of these problems seemed to have occured shortly after the header install.

any idea's/suggestions?

 

about the part where at a stoplight yo have to let off the clutch then back in, i think thats common in the cobalts, because mine does that too. moreso when trying to shift into second gear though

 

does it to me in reverse

 

OK so thats normal. IM not so worried about that.

What would make your clutch slip every time in third really bad out of no where?

Why would the Clutch pedal get real soft and easy to push in?

Why would it engauge so smooth?

Could the clutch be going, or could it be a leak or something? Is there anyway to check, and is there an easy way to bleed the clutch and refill?

 

check the master cylinder to see if the fluid is full. i'm not really sure how to bleed it.

 

I have the same header and I love it, but I have had an exhaust leak twice now with it. Both times one of the bolts connecting the top end of header actually fell out! I think may have something to do with the loss of the flex pipe, but the problem is fixed now and have been good for about a month. As for the high boost numbers, I also had the same problem, but I was seeing 18.5-19psi with my 2.8" after I installed just my cat-back and downpipe. Once my header went on, it dropped back down to 17.5-18, I can't really explain it, but thought I'd let you know and maybe it would spark an idea of what the problem could be. Bets of luck.

 

you bleed it the same way you bleed the brakes from what i know, the little ***** to bleed the clutch is easy to find(well...on a 2.2 i dont know about witht hat supercharger) its towards the drivers side, you just gotta look down in there.. it sticks out a lot.

 

how many miles on the car?

 

you need to get that thing on a real dyno and find out what kinda hp your putting down anything over 260 250 tq whp your clutch is eating away! i herd that on street tuner challenge! by the GM time attack builders.

also leaks in exhausts are common you need lock washers, or lock tight on the bolts so they wont come off until they need to plus that cat was welded on under you! that thign ******* whisltes like mine so i bet your hearing that also (stupid whoosh!)

and dont let me hear a word about me killing your clutch! ill cut you.

fill the brake thing up if its empty!

good luck bro

 

I have 16,500 miles on my car. Prior to this weak I NEVER HAD A PROBLEM like this. That is why I am so confused. its like it happened overnight.

The person who installed my header installed a Flex pipe, and shortened the downpipe. So theres still a flex pipe I believe my only leak is where exaust and DP meet

Chris I probably am in the 260+ range, hence I have bigger/heavier tires to spin and can still pull up high on you. Blame that 06 ECU

I mean, even w/ the clutch sluipping I can get to 100 like theres no tomorrow. I mean its freaking sick. I can definately tell a power increase, and maybe the header just put me over the top as far as power the stock clutch could handle.

I mean there is NEVER a time I shift from 2nd to third @ high RPM and have it grip normal, it slips every time. Like I shift and keep the gas to the floor and it will just sit @ 5000 RPMS until it catches up and start moving again.

When I just shift under normal driving its fine, no problems at all.


1.) Can someone tell me where the master cylinder is? I heard that it sucks ***** because its plastic right? Is there an easy way to see it and see if it broke or leaking?

2.) Can someone give me specifics on bleeding the clutch on a 2.0? I would like to do this before I invest in a new clutch. Anyone heard how the Exedy clutch is? Any after install problems?

 

if you do your clutch i do mine!

 

Well **** that Exedy clutch. 1200 bucks, and chattering 6 puck. No thanks hehe.

Spec Stage 2+ or Clutch masters Stage 3 it is. Which would be better/less problemmatic?

 

Your Clutch Line Is Separate From Your Brake Line, They Both Have There Own Fluid Reserviors And Use Different Types Of Fluid, If You Did Not Bleed Your Brakes And Didnt Remove The Air It Will Only Affect Your Breaking Power, Not Your Clutch. Sorry For The All Caps, I Cant Get The Computer To Not Put Caps.

 

Are you sure? I heard rumors the clutch and brakes ran off the same fluid? I mean I could be wrong, but thats what I heard.

So if the clutch has its own resevior, where is it, and is there an easy way to see if you need more fluid or if theres a leak?

 

arent are transmissions sealed?

there is a fill hole thoe somewere a thread some guy posted.

 

I was in auto shop for about 2 years, they have different master cylinders, usually the one for the clutch will be on the oposite side of the clutch in the engine bay on the same side, im at work, I will check on my lunch and let you know.

 

im told by the dealer that that the clutch runs of brake fluid as well

 

Look real close when you do. Youll be pleasently surprised.

 

It could be the same fluid, but they for sure have there own master cylinders and they are not connected in anyway

 

Just to clarify its OK to put DOT4 brake fluid in the dot3 resevoir and mix right?

 

this setup is differant. the both run off the brake master. atleast that's what i was told. look on the drivers side of the car right in front of where you sit. it's at the top of the engine bay. white semi clear plastic bottle with a black cap.

 

yes the transmission oil is sealed we're talking about the clutches here.

 

i was told it runs off the same master cylinder. maybe that's why they BLOW!!!

 

As for the clutch and shift issues...

It sounds like you may have simply worn your clutch in a little bit. They are a wear part and do change in their behavior over their life span.

Not being able to shift into first from a full stop is a problem. The fact that you have to let out clutch and then shift indicates a sychro problem. That's bad. Have it checked.

A typical brake job does NOT require bleeding. You only have to bleed your brakes if you open a brake line for some reason. And there is no reason to open a brake line when doing a brake job. Instead of wondering, just take it in. I have to assume you are still under warrenty and they will gladly fill your resevoir to the correct level with the correct fluid, and will even show you how to do it yourself for later.