Doug's Cobalt SS SC

Hey guys, so I have some front end noise despite putting over 3k into my front end over the past 2.5-3 years. I took her in & they are telling me that my driver side control arm lower ball joint needs replaced, they just installed two need control arms not more than 3 years ago so it's under warranty which is hood but I still have to pay for labor

In addition they said that my passenger side inner tie rod needs replaced & my driver side axel is popping so it needs replaced as well.

Even with all of my front end work I have never replaced my inner tie rods or axels so those are 13 years old with almost 200k on em

Of course I am just going to go ahead & replace both of my inner tie rod ends & both of my axels at the same time however I'm only going to replace just the one control arm since the other one is new & ok & under a life time warranty.

Anyhow I figured since I'm going to be working in that area I have been wanting to replace my OEM factory front sway bar with ZZPs front sway bar. My OEM sway bar is original to the car & the sway bar bushings are as well so not only should this bar give me better performance but it would be a good time to put on new sway bar bushings that come with ZZPs front sway bar

My question for you guys is I've read that removing the OEM sway bar is no easy job & that it actually requires you to lower the entire sub frame a little just to be able to get that sway bar out!! My thinking is rather than waiting until I replace my front breaks, calipers, rotors, & hub bearings with ZZPs front Brembo package to do the sway bar wouldn't it be better to just go ahead & replace my front sway bar now while I have both axels & both inner tie rods off ?

Also seeing that I will have both axels & both inner tie rods off would this give me enough room to get my OEM front sway bar out & install my new Zzp bar without having to lower my sub frame ?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Ive only done this once and it was a total PITA, but I think you need to remove the rear trans mount to swap sway bars.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I would recommend dropping the front subframe. You just have to remove the bolt from the front trans mount, the three bolts from the rear engine mount, the 4 subframe bolts, and the bolt that holds the ball joint stud on the control arms to the steering knuckles. Disconnect the sway bar end links and disconnect the tie rods from the steering rack to the knuckles and from memory that should be it and you can lower the subframe with only the steering rack and sway bar in tact. Might not be a bad idea to support the engine near where it mates up to the trans while doing this. procedure. This may take a little time but I always prefer removing more components than screwing around in tight spaces and making my hands bleed and my mouth cuss.

Doug's Cobalt SS SC

Hey guys seeing that I don't care what happens to my OEM bar couldn't we just cut it in half and remove it that way rather than dropping the sub frame ?

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

As I recall Doug it's not so much an issue with the bar as it is getting to the bushings and getting them off. Different car but I was going to try and do this in my saab 9-3 and found out there was no way I could get to 2 of the bolt's without dropping the subframe, so I scrapped the idea.
If you are going to take it all apart anyway you might as well do it now I guess.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Dropping the subframe without a transmission or engine attached is relatively easy. It's also a good time to inspect your control arms and replace them if necessary. I hunted around for ways and tried to avoid dropping the subframe when I did it as well but I remember thinking it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I also had to drill an extra bolt hole because my stock bushings are single bolt. But I think it is something I got done in a day over the weekend. Only real downside I see is you'll need an alignment afterwards.

Doug's Cobalt SS SC

Thanks guys! So yes I do agree to do it now while I'm replacing my control arms, axels, & inner tie rods so I went ahead & purchased my sway bar last night.

Due to time restraints bing so busy with work I'm paying my tech labor per hour to do the install which is why I'm trying to find the quickest easiest way to get my OEM bar off & my new sway bar on.

Again I don't care what happens to my OEM bar which is why I was thinking I could have my tech take his torch cutter & cut it right off but sounds like it may not be an option.

I think someone in this forum gave the instructions on dropping my sub frame so I'll use those unless someone has anything else ?

Thanks again

MTB_Ryder

How does the engine and tranny not fall down when you drop the subframe? I'm considering a sway bar, too

exninja

iTrader: (1)

There are two mounts that stay attached to the car (one engine, one trans).

MTB_Ryder

Wish I knew that when I was gonna do my LCAs. Two buddies convinced me to just do the BJs because they said the engine and tranny would fall down if I pulled the rear LCA bolts out.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

They must not be familiar with the deltas. Most of the time they'd be right, but there are four mounts on our cars instead of the usual three.

MTB_Ryder

Just backyard mechanics. No extensive experience with any particular platform let alone the delta