So my 2006 ss s/c went through all the symptoms that everyone has with the fuse box connector under the hood. I have had the power steering message the car stalling out and not wanting to start while cranking. not cranking at all. Warning lights on and off. no fuel pump sometimes. Last time I opened up the fuse box under the hood and used electrical tape to firmly attach the front connector. That lasted for about eight months not one problem. she stalled out last night and was doing the fuse box **** again. I just went through cleaned the connectors and put her back together twice and I still cant get her to start. Plus now she has a new display message reduced power when the car is sitting with the key on. Has anyone eliminated this issue with the connectors?

 

Anyone? I know someone has worked this out.

 

Take a good look at the harness routing,cut all the tie wraps and get some slack on the harness at the fuse box .Its probably the engine pulling on it the creates the problem,
Mabe the fuse box is broken inside where the connector comes out now because it was taped up and the pressure was to much for it.
Or you have some damaged wires now.
Might need to replace the fuse box but take a good look at the wiring and the connector(look for burnt or erroded pins fron arcing on the connector and fuse box)

 

thanks for the insight. I still can't get it worked out but hopefully be the end of the today I'll have her running.

 

i had a very similar problem that turned out to a be a **** solder on the actual board of the box. it was a bitch to take apart to get to that board but we resoldered the connection where the battery post connects to the board (i think, this was last summer)

also use a pin and see if any of the connectors are loose where the fuses go in. one of the crank/run clips was fubar and we had to clamp the **** out of it to get it to hold a fuse.

it gave me so many problems up until we tore into it and fixed it.

 

Hey man I’ve been a lurker here for years, I can usually solve my issues by digging through others posts but you’re the only person I’ve found that’s take the PCB (the circuit board) that sits INSIDE the fuse box out. How did you get the fuse box apart? Like I can get it out and everything and I can get the black tabs loose enough but the screw that the bottom connectors click into, well those screws seem to hold the board in place and I’m not sure how to get those screws out. Do you force them out like you do to get the bottom connectors to drop loose from the fuse box PCB when say swapping out a fuse box? Anyways hope you can help or see this or just have a basic “what you did” to pry that fuse box apart so I can inspect the circuit board trace paths for corrosion so I can finally say yes that was the problem (in case you car, it was a no start no crank but it cranks when grounding the pin on the crank relay with its own ground, and after knowing the grounds that go to the starter are fresh and nice, it must be in the PCB since grounding that pin extra makes it start)

 

Hey im having a simliar issue car wont start until the theft light turns out which it does when i open or close the hood once in awhile

 

I figured the source or i should say the area of the source of my problem. It has to do with wires going to my pcm cause i pulled it out from between fuse box and intake and soon as the slack was loose on the wires the theft light went out allowing fuel pump to turn on and when it does that my car starts every time. So it's obviously a wire was either ground n on something or pulling it. Ofcourse for me to actually fix this properly i will have to pull the entire wiring harness to check all wires for breaks or open spots. I first thought it was also my fuse Block cause when i move the battery wire on the fuse block it would turn the fuel pump on sometimes i guess it was me bumping the pcm that was actually fix n the issue.