Heat exchanger help!!
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Heat exchanger help!!
Well I was bleeding the air out of my heat exchanger and I think that I may have stripped the bolt that goes on the top of the stock heat exchanger.
What should I do to fix this?
Any suggestions would help
What should I do to fix this?
Any suggestions would help
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So does anyone know the size of the bolt on top of the stock heat exchanger. I don't think that it is entirely stripped but the first few threads won't catch so I was gonna use a tap and clean it out. It does not seem to match up to any of my metric taps!!
Is this a special GM threaded bolt? They don't make anything easy!!
Help Please
Is this a special GM threaded bolt? They don't make anything easy!!
Help Please
#6
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So does anyone know the size of the bolt on top of the stock heat exchanger. I don't think that it is entirely stripped but the first few threads won't catch so I was gonna use a tap and clean it out. It does not seem to match up to any of my metric taps!!
Is this a special GM threaded bolt? They don't make anything easy!!
Help Please
Is this a special GM threaded bolt? They don't make anything easy!!
Help Please
#8
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When I did my option B for my SS/SC I am pretty sure I used a 1/4 NPT brass fitting. If it wasn't 1/4 NPT then it was 1/8 NPT or 1/2 NPT. I am 99.9% sure it was 1/4 NPT though.
#11
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i did the same thing, damn thing was cross threaded from the factory .
This was my fix. i found some brass fitting at lowes , I couldn't find a tap that fit the size and thread I needed.So i force threaded a bung into the stripped out neck, that way i could still remove bleed the system without fear of stripping again.
A side note for the help with bleeding.
Take out the pump relay from the fuse block under the hood , and take a piece of wire to use a jumper between the 87 and 30 pin(look at underside of relay)its going to be the slot in the top right to bottom left of the socket when looking at it from the front of the car. This way you can pulse the pump. it helps force air bubbles out.
another thing that helps is to have the axillary HE unbolted on one side (side opposite the hoses ) .
so that the hoses are higher and pointed up.
iv noticed air can get trapped in the top of HE becasue of the position of spouts.
This was my fix. i found some brass fitting at lowes , I couldn't find a tap that fit the size and thread I needed.So i force threaded a bung into the stripped out neck, that way i could still remove bleed the system without fear of stripping again.
A side note for the help with bleeding.
Take out the pump relay from the fuse block under the hood , and take a piece of wire to use a jumper between the 87 and 30 pin(look at underside of relay)its going to be the slot in the top right to bottom left of the socket when looking at it from the front of the car. This way you can pulse the pump. it helps force air bubbles out.
another thing that helps is to have the axillary HE unbolted on one side (side opposite the hoses ) .
so that the hoses are higher and pointed up.
iv noticed air can get trapped in the top of HE becasue of the position of spouts.
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i just poored coolant in my filler neck tell it stoped taking it. then do a cruze checked it again, added some more. then did a wot pull, checked it again and filled it up once more.
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i did the same thing, damn thing was cross threaded from the factory .
This was my fix. i found some brass fitting at lowes , I couldn't find a tap that fit the size and thread I needed.So i force threaded a bung into the stripped out neck, that way i could still remove bleed the system without fear of stripping again.
A side note for the help with bleeding.
Take out the pump relay from the fuse block under the hood , and take a piece of wire to use a jumper between the 87 and 30 pin(look at underside of relay)its going to be the slot in the top right to bottom left of the socket when looking at it from the front of the car. This way you can pulse the pump. it helps force air bubbles out.
another thing that helps is to have the axillary HE unbolted on one side (side opposite the hoses ) .
so that the hoses are higher and pointed up.
iv noticed air can get trapped in the top of HE becasue of the position of spouts.
This was my fix. i found some brass fitting at lowes , I couldn't find a tap that fit the size and thread I needed.So i force threaded a bung into the stripped out neck, that way i could still remove bleed the system without fear of stripping again.
A side note for the help with bleeding.
Take out the pump relay from the fuse block under the hood , and take a piece of wire to use a jumper between the 87 and 30 pin(look at underside of relay)its going to be the slot in the top right to bottom left of the socket when looking at it from the front of the car. This way you can pulse the pump. it helps force air bubbles out.
another thing that helps is to have the axillary HE unbolted on one side (side opposite the hoses ) .
so that the hoses are higher and pointed up.
iv noticed air can get trapped in the top of HE becasue of the position of spouts.
Ghetto fix and its functional haha
I don't plan on touching that thing again for a long time. What a pain
thanks for looking out. Wasted a day of my life with that stupid bolt!!
Last edited by danieluf; 06-25-2010 at 04:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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i kinda got the same probelm but its on the engine. its the steam line, its the bolt thats right next to the water temp sensor. some how i crossed threaded that. to top it all of i have to install a new fuel rail, and of course u have to remove that steam line to remove that. i cant wait for that day lol. i've been trying to figure out a way to fix it but i cant think of anything!
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