huge problem
huge problem
i just got an 06 cobalt ss/sc three weeks ago and havent had any problems until today. all ive done to it is put on and intake and that was like a week and a half ago. This morning I drove my car home from a friends house which was 2-3 miles and i drove casually shifting around 3000 rpms. The low fuel warning came on but i didnt feel like stopping to get gas. my car sat for about 4 hours. Then i just went around the corner to the same gas station (BP) as always and filled up with the premium (91 octane). Left the gas station and shifted into second and was at about 3500 rpms and my car started rocking like it was redlined, so i shifted into third as soon as i got to 3500/4000 rpms it does this. It has done it in every time at 3500 rpms. If you have any idea let me know. Thanks. No warning lights are on.
The SS/SC is built for 91 octane, 93 is not required!
Start trouble shooting by unhooking the battery and letting the car sit for a few minutes dead, it could need a good reboot.
I doubt it's serious, haven't heard of this before though..
Ryan
Start trouble shooting by unhooking the battery and letting the car sit for a few minutes dead, it could need a good reboot.
I doubt it's serious, haven't heard of this before though..
Ryan
Oh here may be a couple possibilities one water in your gas or 2 low fuel pressure or possibility i think our cars have electronic fuel systems i think and your gas cap has to be tight but i could be wrong
PS: If you can replicate this every time you need to get the dealer to fix it asap. You're doing awesome if you can replicate the problem, it's up to them to fix it then because they know you're not making it up. This is what our warranties are for.
I've run my car for 12K miles on 91, no problems. I've tried 93 and I've tried even higher ethanol gas and 91 rips the best out of them all.
I don't even think you need 93 with stage II, I might be wrong though?
I don't even think you need 93 with stage II, I might be wrong though?
Oh wait thats right! Man its pouring down rain here I bet you got some water in the tank, stop by Pep Boys and get like 2 or 3 bottles of DRY GAS and throw them in and see if it goes away. And never let it go so long in this kind of rain on E!
Condensation. Its cold and raining, the car was all nice and warm from driving, you shut it off with a damn near empty tank and the condensation has more area in which to form on the inside of the tank. that condensation tuns to water drops and when you do get more gas the cold gas from the ground causes, you guessed it, more condensation! WOO HOO! This is why when its cold outside your mom and dad always used to tell you don't let your car get below a half a tank of gas or you'll need dry gas. Dry gas is just ispropel alcohol that mixes with the gas and water and allows the water to evaporate quickly. The more you put in the faster it works.
ya know, i work at a chevy dealership, and i ain't a mechanic, but i do interact allot with them, the only problem i seen with ss/sc was the clutch, i have an 07, so i don't know if it is still a problem with mine, but i know one of my co-workers just had to change his cluch in his 06, and on the chevy tech's bulliten it just came up that there have had a lot of ppl with cluch problems. if u still have your warrenty (which an 06 should) then i suggest going they may replace it with a 07 cluch
he finally threw a CEL, onstar said it was an Intake prob. and a Transmission/Clutch prob. So i went over his house and took the AEM off (noticed no visible probs) for warrenty issues. they said the intake prob was an "Emergency Code" and the car should not be drivin more than 50 miles unless to the dealer..
From you very first post, I don't think this has anything to do with gas.
You say the car seems to "redline" at 3500 RPM? Do you mean to say that the fuel cut-off is engaging and stopping the engine from accelerating any further?
If that's what its doing, then the problem is the neutral fuel cut-off. In neutral, you can't rev your engine past about 3500 RPM. This switch is supposed to off while in gear, allowing the full engine speed range. Sounds like yours might have failed, making it think it's still in neutral even though it isn't.
You say the car seems to "redline" at 3500 RPM? Do you mean to say that the fuel cut-off is engaging and stopping the engine from accelerating any further?
If that's what its doing, then the problem is the neutral fuel cut-off. In neutral, you can't rev your engine past about 3500 RPM. This switch is supposed to off while in gear, allowing the full engine speed range. Sounds like yours might have failed, making it think it's still in neutral even though it isn't.
ok well i put some dry gas in and drove my car out to a soccer game about 20 min from my house. my car still had the problem but only in third this time. on the way home from the game my check engine light came on and i used onstar to do a diagnostic, they said i had an air intake code and a powertrain transmission clutch code that was not an emergency code and that my cruise control was disactive. im not sure if that code is just because my cruise control doesnt work and i dont think its ever worked. anyway bob took of my intake and put back the stock airbox. my car sat for about another 3 hours after this, i drove the car from there home only a couple miles and the check engine light went out. this morning i went to the dealership and of course they cant look at it today but i have an appt for tomorrow. the car is not having the problem anymore, but i checked with onstar and the powertrain transmission clutch code is still on, no intake code though. the dealer said with no lights on they have no reason to run a diag. but they will have a tech listen to the onsatr message and go from there. I then went to a second dealership to see if they could look today and they said not til wed, and that i ,one got bad fuel or, two water in the intake, both of which void the warrenty. i think she was full of it because she is only a sevice advisor and no one looked at the car. the first dealership said nothing about the warrenty being voided for water in the intake system and the stock airbox is back on so do they even have a way to know the aem cold air was on? and would water in the stock intake void the warrenty cause as far as they know it was on? sorry for leaving u guys hanging for so long but late yesterday got pretty hectic taking everything off and i was worried what was wrong. Thanks for all ur help and ill keep u posted.
You got a lot of bullshit there. A dealership can most certainly scan for codes even though the CEL is not on. The computer stores codes even after the light goes out. Make them scan it. And your warranty is fine.


