So I ran out of gas on my way home the other day. I was just about to get off the interstate and fill up about three miles up the road and it died out on me. So I called AAA and they brought me some gas. Unfortunately, I didn't realize that he most likely put Regular 87 in my tank. I started the car and there was about a little more than 1/4 tank now. I began to accelerate and match the speed of traffic which was roughly 65 mph and before I could even get out of first gear the car started bucking and hesitating horribly. I limped it to the gas station a few miles up the road and fill it the rest of the way w/ 93 hoping to even out the mixture. That didn't really work because for the next two days it ran like garbage. Cold starts the car barely wanted to idle. I threw two codes the next day p2187 and p2096. I filled up the car again when it got to just under 1/2 tank at the same station (Sunoco) w/ 93 and the CEL went away. Today it came back on again and the car is still stumbling after idling in stop and go traffic and will not boost past 2.2 lbs w/ half throttle. What should I do to fix this? I have an appointment w/ the dealer but its not until 9/15. At this rate, the car won't start at all by then. Please help lol.

 

Wow 17 views and no one can help? Come on guys.

 

hp tuners says fuel trims are messed up, and your car is running too lean. Clear codes or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and should be fine if you got all that 87 out, if not theres another problem then some bad gas.

 

way to burn the fuel pump up

why did you have to run it till you broke down?

 

Probably damaged something in the fuel system since you ran the car out of gas. Water at the bottom of the tank will cause problems, it will get sucked up if you run it til it quits. Nothing triple A did to cause your ignorance of your fuel level...

 

The 87 octane didnt cause the problems you are having.
Try replacing the fuel filter could of sucked up the crap from the bottom of the tank and throw a bottle of gasline antifreeze in it to displace any water that might be in the system.
Sound like its running like theres water in the gas(bad gas) put the gasline antifreeze in first and see what happens

 

Reset. Replace the filter (a good preventative measure), and fill the tank, and add some boost/fuel injection cleaner - several brands consist of mostly methanol, which will help get the moisture out of the system.

On my tuned LT1, my gas gauge reads incorrectly. I do my best to keep the tank topped, but sometimes I'll run low. I keep a couple bottles of fuel injection cleaner/boost around just in case 1) I run dry by mistake, and 2) I get a bad tank of gas.

I would suspect that Seafoam would work since it has most of the cleaning/moisture control properties, but I never tried it for this particular issue.

 

I didn't know it was that low. As a lot of ppl already know the gas gauge jumps all over the place and reads based on your driving habits, not necessarily how much fuel you have.

 

well if your low fuel light is on that probaly means you should put gas..... just sayin ...... just sayin

 

1 they probably also gave you shitty gas too.
Youll probaly have to drop some lucas in there, and run a few tanks before it runs good again.
and ya like the OPs were saying swap out that filter. If they gave you **** gas, the filter
is probably clogged with ****

 

NEVER should run a fuel pump out of fuel.

Change your filter, if that doesnt work then time for a new pump most likely

 

the gas gauge doesn't jump...the dic says different numbers based on your driving
if the dic says fuel range really low...get gas. you caused the problem...not aaa

also, what do you mean begin to match the sped of traffic...does that mean you are going wot?

 

both codes are for fuel system lean, so my best guess would be that the codes actually set while the car was running out of gas. now having the codes wont cause the car to run like crap, they are just indicating a problem. its possible you sucked up a bunch of crap out of the fuel tank, although a 2010 shouldnt have much crap in it.

id start by disconecting the battery for a while to clear the codes and fuel trims, then try it and see how it is. if its no better id just wait till you get it to the dealer. its possible the fuel filter is plugged, however (this is assuming its an ss turbo) i know direct injection systems can be tough to prime, and there may be an air pocket in the fuel system. never delt with gas DI, i just know diesels are a pain when you run them out of fuel.

 

I see people are saying to replace the fuel filter ..... last time i looked there isn't a external filter on the LNF like there is for the LSJ. IIRC the filter is in the fuel tank.... not to easy to replace .

 

N00b statement, but I thought our cars compensate for different octane levels. Of course the car would run like **** if say 87 octane rated gasoline was put into the car. I thought it was safe.

 

No i made sure not to got WOT, just gave it about half throttle to try and quickly get up to speed without causing the car to boost more than a couple psi. As a follow up, I put a container of STP octane booster in a full tank the other day and the car seems to be back to normal. I'll know for sure if it is once this tank full is gone and I refill again. For all I know it only seems like its running better cuz of the octane booster and when I fill it up again w/ 93 it might go back to what it was doing. Would that be something that might happen?

 

Gas is less dense than water so water is always on the bottom. Your pickup line pulls gas from the bottom correct? So how does that make sense its always pulling it from the bottom where the water in the tank is. Just clear the codes.

 

Your cars pcm has to relearn because its used to running on 93, 87 will give you tons of knock till you reset the pcm by disconnecting the battery for about 30 min. then You will have to drive her for bout 30 miles and give or take 10 startup cycles. that will fix it.

 

dude... these people are taking it to the extreme. lol I've ran my car out of gas twice... 87 octane probably contributed but not that much. Just do what boosted05ss said and you'll be fine.

 

Ok so I've got an update for you guys, maybe someone can figure this out. Today I'm on my way home from school in third gear doing 40 mph accelerating onto the highway and my car starts jerking like crazy again as if I were repeatedly flooring it and letting off real quick. I'm like wtf so I back out of it and try again to get up to around 60 mph. It stopped bucking but the rest of the way home I would be cruising and barely on the gas and the car would start going faster as if I were giving it more gas, but the whole time I'm keeping a light, but steady pressure on the pedal. Later on I start the car again and cel p0106 shows up. Never got that before something about the MAP sensor/Barometric something out of performance range. What does that mean? Also, my RPD keeps popping up data not available on both the boost and air/fuel ratio screens. All my problems have occurred since running out of gas and AAA puting 87 in it. It's going back to the dealer again to get fixed. What is wrong with my car?

 

solder your sensors...

 

I told the service manager to do that and he said "those crimps that are on there have a very good connection/seal. they're water tight". If that's the case then why are so many ppl having trouble with it?

 

this is true, when i start car in morning its lets say at 1/2 tank while driveing my Ecodriving itll by the time i get to work read at like 5/8. now adays gas gages are not as accurate as you think, it goes off you driveing and amount of gas in tank so i can see him not knowing. ive drove 27 miles in stop and go traffic with the gage on E and it saying low fuel.

 

ugh stop blaming AAA. did you tell them to bring 93? NOPE! so its your own fault, i know its not something you might think of. But you seem like your the guy i would help out and do the brakes for you, and next summer you'd tell me that your tires have worn out ever since i did the brakes.

Do a search. LNF's are notorious for Blowing MAFs

 

you do not need to solder your sensors, if youre talking about gms1 you can just used the crimp with the sealing shrink sleeves....