I've had enough of the POS sunroof switch
06-02-2010, 08:16 PM
#1
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I've had enough of the POS sunroof switch
After having my sunroof switch fall out, having the bezel fall out, having a GM tech mash the thing into my roof, and now with the switch not returning to the 'off' position after it's pressed, I have decided to relocate the sunroof switch to somewhere near the center stack (probably next to the cigarette lighter) and fill the hole with an automotive thermometer or compass.
I'll be buying the switch (a 3 way toggle should do the job) and extra wire tomorrow in an attempt at this. Just FYI, and I am also curious as to whether or not anyone has attempted to do this on their own Cobalt equipped with the stupid sunroof.
Stay tuned.
I'll be buying the switch (a 3 way toggle should do the job) and extra wire tomorrow in an attempt at this. Just FYI, and I am also curious as to whether or not anyone has attempted to do this on their own Cobalt equipped with the stupid sunroof.
Stay tuned.
06-02-2010, 08:24 PM
#7
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I was having this same problem with mine it was actually an easy fix. you have to take the whole switch out and squeeze the metal that is around the switch down tight. it fixed mine and i never had the problem again
06-02-2010, 08:27 PM
#8
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I realize with a 3 way rocker/toggle switch, I will have to do the same thing, but it will be much easier to find the off position and the roof won't magically open and close itself as I am driving, lol.
06-02-2010, 08:46 PM
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06-03-2010, 08:42 PM
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i used the same factory switch. after taking down the front of the headliner and plastic a-pillar cover, i cut the wire about 6 inches from the switch, enough room to splice it back together. i got three pieces of speaker wire, same gauge as the switch wires, and extended the switch down the a-pillar to the cubbyhole using zip ties to hold the new wires in place.
06-04-2010, 12:15 AM
#13
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Just finished all of the wiring. I had to use a DMM to find out what wire is the 12v constant, which turned out to be the green wire and NOT the blue wire. It could be different for different model years, though. I used a wiring diagram from some car audio site and blew 4 fuses trying to test the thing out. 
I used a DPDT toggle switch rated for 30 amps (the sunroof has a 15 amp fuse, so it's more than enough), quick disconnects for the switch, and a bunch of 18 gauge hookup wire. It's really easy to do, the hardest part is taking half of the interior apart to run the wires and drilling the hole in the silver trim so that the switch can pass through. I mounted it next to the wheel, where the SS T/C has the launch control button.
I'll post more later. pz
I used a DPDT toggle switch rated for 30 amps (the sunroof has a 15 amp fuse, so it's more than enough), quick disconnects for the switch, and a bunch of 18 gauge hookup wire. It's really easy to do, the hardest part is taking half of the interior apart to run the wires and drilling the hole in the silver trim so that the switch can pass through. I mounted it next to the wheel, where the SS T/C has the launch control button.
I'll post more later. pz
06-04-2010, 09:10 AM
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Yea... this might be helpful. I've only had the car since mid March of this year and yesterday, when I closed the driver door, this is what happened:
I just laughed it off. I was able to get the cover back on, however, the switch itself almost fell off
I just laughed it off. I was able to get the cover back on, however, the switch itself almost fell off
06-04-2010, 03:08 PM
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Just finished all of the wiring. I had to use a DMM to find out what wire is the 12v constant, which turned out to be the green wire and NOT the blue wire. It could be different for different model years, though. I used a wiring diagram from some car audio site and blew 4 fuses trying to test the thing out.
I used a DPDT toggle switch rated for 30 amps (the sunroof has a 15 amp fuse, so it's more than enough), quick disconnects for the switch, and a bunch of 18 gauge hookup wire. It's really easy to do, the hardest part is taking half of the interior apart to run the wires and drilling the hole in the silver trim so that the switch can pass through. I mounted it next to the wheel, where the SS T/C has the launch control button.
I'll post more later. pz
I used a DPDT toggle switch rated for 30 amps (the sunroof has a 15 amp fuse, so it's more than enough), quick disconnects for the switch, and a bunch of 18 gauge hookup wire. It's really easy to do, the hardest part is taking half of the interior apart to run the wires and drilling the hole in the silver trim so that the switch can pass through. I mounted it next to the wheel, where the SS T/C has the launch control button.
I'll post more later. pz
06-04-2010, 04:53 PM
#18
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I can't decide what to put in the hole now (that's what she said). I've been looking for a tweeter that I can bridge from the factory left and right but noplace around here sells tweeters apparently.
buncha bulllll ****!
buncha bulllll ****!
06-04-2010, 06:08 PM
#20
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I'm looking for a light right now actually, lol. I don't want some gay LED or neon light, I want something that looks OEM and isn't as cheap as the switch that was there before.
06-04-2010, 07:26 PM
#22
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I just bought a $4 interior light from advance to fill the hole for the time being. I'll probably just leave it unless I can find something nicer. I only have 2 tiny lights under my rearview mirror and I can't see **** inside my car at night, so I think it will be a good idea to stick one up there.
