Car threw a PO101 code today. My friend checked the connector to the maf going into the intake, has power to it. Would the maf on the cold pipe be the culprit. What would be the easiest way trying to figure out what is the casue and which maf, any help is much appreciated.

Bump. Can anyone help me out.

 

I would clean the maf sensor first.

Diagnostic Aids
• Any condition that can cause the MAF, SCIP, and TP sensors to be shifted in value at the same time will cause this DTC to set.

• A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor parameter on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 3-6 g/s at idle to 180 g/s or more at the time of the 2-3 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system.

• A skewed or stuck engine coolant temperature (ECT) or IAT sensor 1 will cause the calculated models to be inaccurate and may cause this DTC to run when it should not.

• A skewed MAP sensor may cause this DTC to set.

• A steady or intermittent high resistance of 15 ohms or more on the ignition 1 voltage circuit will cause the MAF sensor values to be skewed high by up to 60 gs, and may cause this DTC to set. A high resistance will cause a driveability concern before this DTC sets.

• The BARO that is used by the PCM to calculate the airflow models is initially based on the BARO sensor at key ON. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, the BARO Sensor parameter varies with the altitude. 101 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude

 

Yeah, I figured cleaning the maf would probably be the best first option. I was just driving to work this morning, down shifted into second getting making a turn onto a onramp for the highway, push the gas pedal down and car fell flat on its face. Engine would surge and no boost but figured that is the car in safe mode since the fuel trims would be all wacky from the maf not working. Do they make stuff for just cleaning the maf or is thier a certain household/garage product to use for that/

 

I havent cleaned mine yet but Ive read there are two different kinds and you need the one thats safe for the gm sensors I think because they are plastic.Not 100% on that maybe some one can verify that for me.

But yes they make maf cleaner.

 

Use this one:

 

Yeah, I did that and all it did was make things worse. Cleaned the maf, cleared the code, after that car had trouble stayig running after started, we got it going, I drove the car, no change in anything and engline light came back on. After that checked couplings to charger pipes and intake and then cleared code again. After that car would not start at all, did not want to idle at all. We unplugged the maf and then car would start and run fine. Replaced maf, same results. Could this be a tps sensor problem?

 

you have to get a more advanced scanner to check to voltage at the tps. voltage during the pedal push. I had an issue just like yours and found the pedal sensor had gone bad.

 

Yeah, I need to find someone in the Dayton, OH area that could help me out. My friend doesn't have am updated version of hp tuners, would hp tuners be be able to check that? I am just trying to avoid the dealer, the charge $80 just to do a diagnostics which is crazy but might be my only choice.

 

i had the same issue... your maf wire probably broke like mine did. gm didnt put long enough wires and when your motor moves under acceleration it stretches the wire and brakes it. i know im not the only person to have this problem.

 

We checked the wiring harness that plugs into the maf, it had power and ground to it so that couldn't have been the issue. I have someone looking at it today, to him it sounds like it might be running pig rich when the maf is plugged, so thats why it won't stay running when I start it, plus you can really smell gasoline if you try to get it running by keeping on the throttle trying to get it to idle right. Then you unplug the maf, runs fine. Fuel trims might be a little screwy and just need some adjusting.

 

The signal back is important as well.
Check the continuity of the yellow wire on the maf connector to the pcm(C2 PIN 41)

 

thats the one that broke on mine... it had power but no signal

 

Well, I will be checking that out today. I put in fresh spark plugs yesterday thingking those coulds have been fouled out but no difference maker there. I wasn't able to get the car looked at cuz I took down the wrong number for the guy so just trying whatever I can before taking it to the dealership. They would probably blame whats wrong on the aftermarket parts and not cover it under warranty.

 

well if the intake sucked up and water and it was enough to get the maf wet it would of fucked it up good way to find out if your maf is fuckd, leave it in and just unplug the clip to it and if the car starts to run better in default and drives and when you plug it back in and drive it and it starts to run like **** the maf is shot, it bout like 40 or so with a core at a suto zone for a new one.. i had mine go on me like last year it got wet.

 

Problem is I did put in a brand new maf, cleared code, plugged it in and got the same results, car would not start and run. Unplugged it and ran just fine. So I guess it wasn't the maf itself maybe but I did try and new maf in the car and no luck fixing it.

 

O9blackonblack, you were right, checked the signal wire and no circuit, nothin. Takin it to the dealership tommorrow to get it fixed, hopefully they don't try and blame my intake for it and try to get out of doing it under warranty, figure its not cheap to fix.

 

*takes a bow* haha glad you got it figured out

 

what ever happened when u took it to the dealer im having the exact same problem i dont know if i should take it to the dealer and risk voiding my warrenty