Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

My Last Resort

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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 12:08 AM
  #1  
ShakieHead's Avatar
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From: Burlington Ky
My Last Resort

I hate for this to be my first post, but I have no clue what could be wrong with my wifes car. The car is a 2006 Cobalt LT 4 door 2.2 130xxx miles. Main problem now is getting power to fuel pump, but not kicking on. I will go threw the whole story.

Started when wife called me at work saying her car keeps saying Check Charging System. After doing some checks, I ended up replacing the Alternator and serp Belt. She drove it for about three days, and I told her to park it so I could to some maintence on it. She called me saying that it was acting up on her way home, the rpms going up and down, and sputtering on take off. She parks it and I go to work on it the next day. Things I did:

New rear shoes, and drums
Master Cylinders
rear shocks
Fuel filter
plugs, and boots
air filter
new ready mount struts
front brake pads

Now I go to start it and check everything out. The start was barely cranking over so now a bad starter. Replaced it, and then the car would turn over but no start at all. I noticed oil all over the front/side of motor and on starter, but wanted to get it running before taking intake and etc off to chase the oil leak.

Now I hook a FP gauge up to check fuel pressure. Got nothing. Check the fuse, and rely. Swap the relay out and still nothing. So I get under the car and take Send and Return like off fuel filter, and turn it over, no fuel. Grab multimeter and check power supply to FP and was getting 10V off two of the points, and .10 and less on others.

So now I figure FP was done, which is common. So I replace FP. Put it all back together and now I still don't have nothing. No fuel to the rail and pump not kicking on at all. Still have power at the plug, but pump not coming on with key.

There are no lights on, on the dash when key on. Today the wife told me when she parked it, it died on her. So I'm lost on what it could be. I'm not a GM guy at all, so GM's design and wiring isn't a strong point for me. So here is where I'm at:

If CPS goes out does it kill the fuel pump
If the Oil sending unit goes out does it kill the fuel pump.
If it threw the timing belt it would still get fuel, so I have eliminated that
I have looked around the board and check things that I have found like the fuse placement and etc.
I have torn the interior out chasing wires to and from rear of car and everything looks good

I have never met a car I couldn't fix, and I'm totally lost. Sorry this is my first post but like the title says it was my last resort. I'm not the type to call a shop or take it there so any help will be appreciated

Thanks
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 08:52 AM
  #2  
Gelladuga69's Avatar
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From: YAMOMS
By CPS, do you mean Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)? There will be no fuel/spark delivered if it's bad. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...o-start-54807/
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 11:44 AM
  #3  
insylem's Avatar
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by ShakieHead
The car is a 2006 Cobalt LT 4 door 2.2 130xxx miles.

car keeps saying Check Charging System.

2013 - 2006 = 7

7 > 5

Stock batteries are only good for about five years from what I understand.
Replace battery.

Espessly if your getting 10VDC at the pump. Sounds like the battery
isn't strong enough to run the pump.


Originally Posted by ShakieHead
If CPS goes out does it kill the fuel pump
Thanks
No, it shouldn't


Originally Posted by ShakieHead
If the Oil sending unit goes out does it kill the fuel pump.
Thanks
No
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #4  
usafcobalt's Avatar
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From: baltimore, md
I know you said there are no lights. But my guess would be security gems are known for the system to just randomly arm. Turn the key to the on position and leave it like that for 15 mins then try to start it. If the security system arms it kills the pump. That one will be your constant hot. You need to see if you get a switched/cranking hot. You need a helper because when you turn the key on you will have power for 8 seconds. Or while cranking. Make sure you have a good ground. If you don't have switched power it's either fuse wiring relay or ECM. Or like I said security. And not to attack your work but did you unhook the battery when you did the alternator
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 02:44 PM
  #5  
ShakieHead's Avatar
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From: Burlington Ky
Originally Posted by Gelladuga69
By CPS, do you mean Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)? There will be no fuel/spark delivered if it's bad. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...o-start-54807/
Is there anyway for verify that without a OBD II scanner.


Originally Posted by insylem
2013 - 2006 = 7

7 > 5

Stock batteries are only good for about five years from what I understand.
Replace battery.

Espessly if your getting 10VDC at the pump. Sounds like the battery
isn't strong enough to run the pump.
The battery is good. I passed a load test with flying colors. I checked the battery before replaceing alternator, and then checked it twice before replacing starter. I was only getting 10v cause the battery is dead due to the car not running and trying to start it over and over. I have to hook it up and jump it when trying to start it, cause I put it on a charger and it doesn't take long for it to drain back down when turning it over multiple times check different areas for fuel, and spark.



Originally Posted by usafcobalt
I know you said there are no lights. But my guess would be security gems are known for the system to just randomly arm. Turn the key to the on position and leave it like that for 15 mins then try to start it. If the security system arms it kills the pump. That one will be your constant hot. You need to see if you get a switched/cranking hot. You need a helper because when you turn the key on you will have power for 8 seconds. Or while cranking. Make sure you have a good ground. If you don't have switched power it's either fuse wiring relay or ECM. Or like I said security. And not to attack your work but did you unhook the battery when you did the alternator
Yes I alway unhook the battery anytime I do any work on a car. Because of the sensors on everything it just easier to unhook the battery then to short sensors
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