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So hello to all im new to this site or forum. Also im new owner of a 06 cobalt ss 2.0l lsj 5spd manual. So background i love cars and driving/racing and building street cars that also race at track mostly 1/4 but sometimes road races. Anyways i bought this car from a person who couldn't fix the car so it had the p0335 code when i towed it to my place, the guy said he had just replaced the ckp sensor but he also said he took out the cam sensor and put it bqck how it was supposed be done but anyways it had a no crank, no start issue. Well i took out the fuse panel and basically pulled out circuit board since i couldnt find a ss at any junkyards here in phx so i took one of these other fuse boxes and pulled it apart and cleaned the ss circuit board and placed back into a better fuse box top and bottom. I also wired in a new plug for the panel since the screw thats hols them tight was broken. Fixed a few other wires thay need to be rewired. I even plugged in s few plugs that needed to be. Well i put the fuse box back in, this had fixed the no crank issue now the car would like start for half a second but if i kept trying it then backfires. So i took out cam sensor checked it seemed good then i realigned piston 4 to TDC on the compression stroke and lined the marks on the sensor placed it back in and buttuned it all up. Next i did it the hardway i took out intercooler airpump and half the starter and knock sensor out finally to get to the ckp sensor pulled it out and it looked new like the guy i bought it from had said but i still replaced it again anyways and i tested both my new one and his and they both seemed within spec. So then i put it all back together , also i rewired a starter wire when i did fuse panel. Anyways it now starts for like 2 seconds then dies but its like a hard start when it starts the engine like shakes hard. But if i try it like 5 times in a row then it backfires. So then the p02101 code appeared for the TAC it seems as though the tb blade is not moving for some reason so im assuming this is reason for backfiring out the tail pipe to much fuel no air. So i ordered a tb ot comes in another day. So hopefully this will fix the backfiring and the not stay running but the ckp sensor code p0335 is still thr and i have tested the plug to it to the jumper and from jumper to harnesss to ecm and it all checks out good i tested ckp sensor to make sure its getting a signal from the crank when the motor is cranked over and it does just as i tested the ckp b4 i put it in. Well so this p0335 code is not going away and im at rock and a hard place i am trying but cannot figure this out. Oh and the dash lights work i turned the VATS of with hptuners but i know it still runs from the bcm but the light goes off after a few seconds when turning key to start, and the radio doesnt turm on. This is all that i know and have done i cannot really find any answer to this p0335 problem i have read others but most say replace sensor and that has fixed the problem. Can anyone help me plz im struggling here im new to this lsj motor but i have a 01 camaro 5spd with a series 3 3800 SC swap from a 05gtp so im not a dumb person or a sloppy mechanic by no means i am good i believe at what i build and fix but electrical issues can be like chasing a ghost in the machine
lol anylne plz
help me thx
Yes your are right absolutely when i can get the car to stay running i will do the crank re learn
I'm betting the previous owner never did that, it will run okish without the relearn done. The throttle body could be from cleaning it if the throttle blade is moved it seems to grenade the throttle body. Then again sometimes they just **** the bed randomly.
I've never felt like 05/06's really needed to do case learns.
Which "tutorial" did you use for the cam sensor hex? If you put it in 180° out of synch, that's typically when you'll get the attempt to start -> backfire scenario. There's a LOT of confusion and misinformation out there about putting that in properly. And IIRC, most of the confusion actually stems from GM and the LSJ performance books that they released, as they actually showed it being installed incorrectly.
I've never felt like 05/06's really needed to do case learns.
Which "tutorial" did you use for the cam sensor hex? If you put it in 180° out of synch, that's typically when you'll get the attempt to start -> backfire scenario. There's a LOT of confusion and misinformation out there about putting that in properly. And IIRC, most of the confusion actually stems from GM and the LSJ performance books that they released, as they actually showed it being installed incorrectly.
I used the haynes book which states that you have to line up piston 4 at TDC on compression stroke and then to line up the mark on the cam sensor with the hex bolt mark and thats it. Did i install the cam sensor the incorrect way
If the cam sensor hex is installed correctly, but you keep getting the code, then it's one of two things (typically). Either the timing chain is installed out of time... or the cam position sensor is bad (just because it's new, doesn't necessarily mean that it isn't bad - electronic infant mortality is a thing).
EDIT: Spark of remembrance... you're having a P0335... not P0017. You'll get a P0017 is the cam position hex is wrong, so I don't think that's your issue. Your issue is likely to do with the crank sensor itself or its wiring/ground(s).
Last edited by USMCFieldMP; Sep 13, 2021 at 11:53 AM.
If the cam sensor hex is installed correctly, but you keep getting the code, then it's one of two things (typically). Either the timing chain is installed out of time... or the cam position sensor is bad (just because it's new, doesn't necessarily mean that it isn't bad - electronic infant mortality is a thing).
Haha lol you funny na your right about that imma double check the install by doing it over today also put my new tb on it if all goes well then i should have a running lsj today this time imma check TDC with a screwdriver on cylinder 4 and take the sensor out when i install cam housing to make sure the mark is still aligned once it is installed hope that fixes the backfiring but on the p0335 code its an elusive ghost in the machine that im still trying to pinpoint the issue hopefully its not a pcm prob and a replacent issue another 160 bucks to spend thx for your replys and help though you got me lookong up the install process again
Haha lol you funny na your right about that imma double check the install by doing it over today also put my new tb on it if all goes well then i should have a running lsj today this time imma check TDC with a screwdriver on cylinder 4 and take the sensor out when i install cam housing to make sure the mark is still aligned once it is installed hope that fixes the backfiring but on the p0335 code its an elusive ghost in the machine that im still trying to pinpoint the issue hopefully its not a pcm prob and a replacent issue another 160 bucks to spend thx for your replys and help though you got me lookong up the install process again
I made an edit. Your code isn't for the cam position sensor. You'll get a P0017 for that; so the hex is fine.
Your issue is most likely with the crank sensor, its wiring, or its grounds. Those sensors have been fairly common issues on these cars. Some people have terrible luck with them, others never have a problem.
Yea i checked the pcm plug to jumper to harness. the sensor has been replaced 3 times i found a few wires that had to be spliced and reconnected i have checked and cleaned all grounds would this p0335 code be because no case relearn?
Maybe, but I was under the impression that the case learn was a different code. You can always try it if you have the ability, but I do not believe that to be the issue.
I forget the code number for the relearn, but the text for it is something like "Crankshaft position not learned" or something along those lines.
Maybe, but I was under the impression that the case learn was a different code. You can always try it if you have the ability, but I do not believe that to be the issue.
I forget the code number for the relearn, but the text for it is something like "Crankshaft position not learned" or something along those lines.
Yea i have hp tuners i can do a crank relearn if i can get her to stay running long enough i am not getting any code for the cam sensor but its backfiring so imma see if the tb was that problem the throttle blade wasnt opening at all when pushing the pedal so its starving it of air and pumping fuel until the exhaust heats it up and then ignites into a backfire i am guessing here but it seems to quite possible be the problem on this lsj. See i bought this for the cheap cause no one could figure out what the issue is with the ckp sensor and no crank issue which i have thus fixed it now cranks and wants to start. Any ideas you may think of qbout the p0335 code is appreciated and when i do figure out this problem i will post the fix
You should hear the throttle body move when you first key on - it does a functions check. If it isn't moving, then I would change that first. Sometimes a dead TB will trigger like 3 or 4 unrelated codes. Cobalts can be weird like that.
Have you watched or monitored to see if you have an RPM signal when starting/running?
You should hear the throttle body move when you first key on - it does a functions check. If it isn't moving, then I would change that first. Sometimes a dead TB will trigger like 3 or 4 unrelated codes. Cobalts can be weird like that.
Have you watched or monitored to see if you have an RPM signal when starting/running?
I have which is funny that everything is been checked the sensor is working properlly getting a signal but the rpm not moving on the dash i can check with hp tuners scanner if thrs a rpm signal again there wasnt when i first bought car but i since then changed it to a new sensor again i will check that again when i install new tb today and everything else believe me im trying to get thus beauty running today i really wanna drive her
Oof. Wiring issues are the worst. And that's what I'm betting this will end up being. The fix itself is likely something super simple. Tracking down its location is going to be the problematic part.
Yes well it may be me having to pull the whole motor and yank the harness and checked every freaking inch of it or just buy a replacement used one hopefully in good condition. BUT im hoping that bridge wont have to be crossed at this point if so then i guess i might aswell tear into the engine 2 and check everyrhing and see what else may need fixing haha lol hope this does t become that project at the moment i already hqve another project om going i have a 3800 series3 SC swapped 4th gen fbody camaro that i need to pull the motor and tranny out right now cause i gotta weld up something on de firewall and i believe the new pilot bushing i installed is taken a pooop of something of that nature have a rattling sou d from the area when engine is running until the clutch is engaged then it stops so its probably that
LSJ's are pretty simple, yet stout engines. I doubt tearing into the block is necessary - so long as a compression test and leak down come back with good results.
The only real modification that the engine itself needs is a better crankcase ventilation system. The tiny ports on the valve cover and the intake manifold are waaaaay undersided - especially once you start making more power.
I have PDF copies of the service manual that I've posted here before. I would trace the CKP wiring and figure out where the break is - as I'm guessing that's the issue. Typically, you'd have more codes thrown if it were the case, but I'd make sure that the ECU plugs are properly clamped down, as well. If you don't get that good snap when locking them in, it can cause bad readings/no readings.
LSJ's are pretty simple, yet stout engines. I doubt tearing into the block is necessary - so long as a compression test and leak down come back with good results.
The only real modification that the engine itself needs is a better crankcase ventilation system. The tiny ports on the valve cover and the intake manifold are waaaaay undersided - especially once you start making more power.
I have PDF copies of the service manual that I've posted here before. I would trace the CKP wiring and figure out where the break is - as I'm guessing that's the issue. Typically, you'd have more codes thrown if it were the case, but I'd make sure that the ECU plugs are properly clamped down, as well. If you don't get that good snap when locking them in, it can cause bad readings/no readings.
This may be the problem right here if you look inside the jumper the prongs are both bent to one side and down i hope this is the problem i mean i hqve checked power and one side showed a reading the other wire didnt show any ground or any reafing with the meter i beleve it was the low voltage reference wire
This may be the problem right here if you look inside the jumper the prongs are both bent to one side and down i hope this is the problem i mean i hqve checked power and one side showed a reading the other wire didnt show any ground or any reafing with the meter i beleve it was the low voltage reference wire
Ok so new throttle body hooked up and i also rewired the ckp sensor minus that plug that may have been causing problems so now my starts and runs its ok but it is stuck in reduced engine power mode and i dont know how to fix that plz if you know some secret ninja karate lol i can to do get this outta rudeced engine power mode i cant see what is causong this
Usually reduced power mode comes with a code, did you try the case relearn? Since so many things were screwed with. If I recall correctly the ckp sensor not being learned will cause a sort of reduced power mode.
Usually reduced power mode comes with a code, did you try the case relearn? Since so many things were screwed with. If I recall correctly the ckp sensor not being learned will cause a sort of reduced power mode.
Na it wont let me give it gas itile the brake is pressed and it wants the brake pedal held down the whole time you do crank relearn but i believe the limp mode is causing that problem
yea so the only code now is 2101 for the TAC but i just replaced the throttle body so i mean wouldnt it mean its probably the APP sensor or pedal position sensor that send data to the tb im just guessing its the only code that is making it reduced engine power so i dont know
Last edited by Evollov3; Sep 13, 2021 at 10:58 PM.
Na it wont let me give it gas itile the brake is pressed and it wants the brake pedal held down the whole time you do crank relearn but i believe the limp mode is causing that problem
yea so the only code now is 2101 for the TAC but i just replaced the throttle body so i mean wouldnt it mean its probably the APP sensor or pedal position sensor that send data to the tb im just guessing its the only code that is making it reduced engine power so i dont know
Originally Posted by USMCFieldMP
The P2101 is causing the engine power reduced. Where'd you get the throttle body?
The fact that it starts now at least shows you that you're on the right track.
I bought the throttle body from ECCCP parts its a exact fit match so it seems to be working correctly i believe b4 the car would just die right away or backfire now it runs just in reduced engine power but when i scan vehicle car not running it shows throttle at 33.33% which is wrong so thats what leads me 2 the accelerator pedal position sensor man the days of drive by cable instead of DBW bs haha need to switch that out
Was it an OE part that showed up? That's basically a rhetorical question; there's no way it's an OE part at that price. The pictures on the site look like a knock-off part; not a website that I would order from. The problem with modern electronics on vehicles is that substandard knock-off parts don't always work the greatest.
33% isn't necessarily wrong, especially if it was still in cold start mode. It won't show 0%. Closed is something like 18-22% and wide open is something around 85-90%.
I highly doubt that your pedal is the issue. But if you're interested in trying it, I'm pretty sure that I have an extra pedal in my garage that I could sell you. I had a similar problem and thought the pedal was the issue; it wasn't, the throttle body was.
I'm betting that the throttle body is still your issue. I'd see about returning the one you bought and getting yourself a quality part. RockAuto has an OEM branded one marked down to $115. PLUS, Rock Auto sponsors this forum and provides discount codes, so you should be able to get another 5-10% off.
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Expires: November 24, 2021
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Last edited by USMCFieldMP; Sep 14, 2021 at 02:43 PM.
Was it an OE part that showed up? That's basically a rhetorical question; there's no way it's an OE part at that price. The pictures on the site look like a knock-off part; not a website that I would order from. The problem with modern electronics on vehicles is that substandard knock-off parts don't always work the greatest.
33% isn't necessarily wrong, especially if it was still in cold start mode. It won't show 0%. Closed is something like 18-22% and wide open is something around 85-90%.
I highly doubt that your pedal is the issue. But if you're interested in trying it, I'm pretty sure that I have an extra pedal in my garage that I could sell you. I had a similar problem and thought the pedal was the issue; it wasn't, the throttle body was.
I'm betting that the throttle body is still your issue. I'd see about returning the one you bought and getting yourself a quality part. RockAuto has an OEM branded one marked down to $115. PLUS, Rock Auto sponsors this forum and provides discount codes, so you should be able to get another 5-10% off.
well now i think its not a great oe replacement tb but its working good ot seems to do what is supposed to be doing. So didnt you say or maybe i was reading that sometimea p0335 crank sensor circuit malfunction can cause other erroneous codes to pop up. Cause i rewired the ckp sensor wires and the code droped but yesterday while engine running moving crank sensor wires still seem a short or a damaged wire at the plug into the sensor if it got moved a certain way the engine began to run better just by moving these wires. So i went and order the pigtail cost a arm and leg **** for a 2 wire plug 38 bucks but imma wire that in today and see what happens now
thx for all your feedback and info though and actually i payed more for my tb it costed me 105 on amazon if i knew it was that cheap **** i may send it back to get me a refund haha lol so rock auto you say.
And IIRC, most of the confusion actually stems from GM and the LSJ performance books that they released, as they actually showed it being installed incorrectly.
