Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

oil filter caved in?

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Old May 4, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #26  
YelloEye's Avatar
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I used to snap mine into the cap on my L61 cause I had the room to play with it. With the LNF though I just snap it into the hole first then put the cap on and tighten by hand. Haven't seen a smashed filter or anything yet. Been running WIX since ACDelcos aren't ever in stock when I need to do changes.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 05:34 AM
  #27  
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You (are) supposed to snap it in place and (then) screw it in...not a bad idea to dab the surface w oil either, start up is crucial...
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Old May 5, 2011 | 04:48 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by @nt1ric3-420$$
You (are) supposed to snap it in place and (then) screw it in...not a bad idea to dab the surface w oil either, start up is crucial...
There's 2 places to snap it in, oil cap and the block casting. Which one are you referring to?
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Old May 5, 2011 | 05:06 PM
  #29  
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I snap it into the cap and I have never had an issue. (using AC Delco)
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 01:02 AM
  #30  
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Bringing this back rather than starting a new thread. The filter was collapsing a bit but if I remember correctly i installed filter first then installed the cap. This time i put it in the cap first then slid it onto the engine casting. I found a site mentioning a bypass built into most cars or the filters themselves and incase of restriction would allow oil to flow. What I write below contradicts that we have a bypass or that mine if we have a bypass was functional. I had a restricted oil system due to filter collapse.

I bring this up also as a place to check for tensioner problems associated with timing chain slap, broken bolts, and the ac delco revised tensioner I now run. I have an innovate oil pressure gauge that read about 40-60 psi cold through the rpm range when cold and 30-50 warmed up. After the oil change and wix filter change AND switching to a 10w30 weight my oil pressure is now 40-100 psi cold and 30-100 warm. The noise in the tensioner went away for good (after pulling the timing cover some 3 times and replacing bolts with a better grade bolt. The car runs so much better and feels stronger.

I may have starved my 20g a bit on oil too because I am now doing a full rebuild on it very early in its life. I will pull the turbo tomorrow for a full inspection and I am probably going to find damage from lack of pressure to the turbo or dirty oil from a collapsed filter that only had 300 miles on a new engine build.

Just something to consider.
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 01:16 AM
  #31  
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I run royal purple and a K&N filter and after 6k miles I pulled it out and it didn't look as bad as the acdelco I ran before. They can be expensive but I do recommend them.

BTW fram products suck.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 12:37 AM
  #32  
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I use ACDelco and Mobil 1 exclusively now, I snap the filter into the block casting and then slowly tighten the cap down. Little bit of a click then it gets snugged up with a wrench.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by MyOtherSS
You need to snap the filter into the cap and then install it as one unit. If you just throw the filter in then tighten the cap chances are its not seating or snapping into the cap correctly and crushing it. I had this happen on a Delco and a Wix both quality filters before I figured it out.
This is the problem.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 12:27 PM
  #34  
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I changed my oil the other day and noticed the same thing. Not only was the filter crushed, but the plastic pieces that contact the cap were bent too. I've been changing my oil the same way for 6 years - always place the filter into the cap until it clicks, then start the threads by hand and torque to spec.

This is the first time I've seen this with an AC filter. Allegedly they changed suppliers and are made by some cheap foreign company now. Not sure how true that is but I bought a NAPA Gold (Wix) filter and it's made way, WAY better than the AC. Sturdier construction on the plastics, sturdier filter media and it even came with a new o-ring for the cap. The AC might be OK for 3k intervals but I follow the OLM and it's way too long to be in there.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #35  
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I checked my service manual but can't find anything on oil changes.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 05:41 PM
  #36  
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not suprising, GM's manuals are about as helpful or as useful as this site sometimes.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 02:07 PM
  #37  
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From: so cali
simple - icitee

go to amazon--buy 5 so u get free ship: ac delco ---they're $6.60 each, or call CED....

this is so Completely cheap and FAast, why not do this every 1500 -3000 miles?? DUH?
BTW : superb insurance.....

remove old filter and clean out the entire inner housing w/ paper towels.

pour some new oil in housing & then gently screw the plastic top ATTACHED w/ NEW filter on. LUBE SMALL O RING WITH OIL.

be sure 2 fill engine with 5 quarts pleese.. then IDLE til water temp hits 190 deg F.

? what's duh problem????????????

this IS simplicity. grazie!
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #38  
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5 quarts? I am a quart low at 6. I run about 6 quarts and pour about a half a quart in there to make up for the oil in my CHRA.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #39  
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From: Davie, Fl
Lsj takes more oil than lnf
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #40  
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ahhh, true.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by vanos
go to amazon--buy 5 so u get free ship: ac delco ---they're $6.60 each, or call CED....

this is so Completely cheap and FAast, why not do this every 1500 -3000 miles?? DUH?
BTW : superb insurance.....

remove old filter and clean out the entire inner housing w/ paper towels.

pour some new oil in housing & then gently screw the plastic top ATTACHED w/ NEW filter on. LUBE SMALL O RING WITH OIL.

be sure 2 fill engine with 5 quarts pleese.. then IDLE til water temp hits 190 deg F.

? what's duh problem????????????

this IS simplicity. grazie!
Not necessary.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #42  
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I have always used the ACdelco filter. I stop in the dealer buy the filter from them never had a issue.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:29 PM
  #43  
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I have used ac delco, purolator and purone (mostly) and have never had a filter collapse. I always snap it into the cap first and oil the oring on both the cap and filter tip. I change oil about every 4k miles with M1
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #44  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by 09BlueBaltSS
I have used ac delco, purolator and purone (mostly) and have never had a filter collapse. I always snap it into the cap first and oil the oring on both the cap and filter tip. I change oil about every 4k miles with M1
correct . well done. well oil changes are a little too often for my taste, but filter? done right.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #45  
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I guess doing them every 3k with Mobil 1 would give you apoplexy, eh John?
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 08:00 PM
  #46  
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read bobistheoilguy.com if you want to read millions of posts on opinions of oil change interval. Pure madness or well stupidity.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 08:29 PM
  #47  
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I know of a kid who picked his nose and his head caved in.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 09:03 PM
  #48  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Sox-Fan
I guess doing them every 3k with Mobil 1 would give you apoplexy, eh John?
no i dont care what other folks do. I follow the OLM unless I am racing it. Then i change it after every track weekend.
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