Oil leak from block
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Oil leak from block
2008 Chevy Cobalt SS 220,xxx miles/f.b.o./HP tuned. So it appears I have a piece missing out of the block right above the oil pan next to the flywheel. Is this fixable? Anybody have any experience with this issue? Kind of hard to see in the picture but this is the best I could come up with. It's directly right of the flywheel on the block above the oil pan. Thanks guys
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Oil leaks are a pain to diag, I don't see anything out of the ordinary for the block
I would clean the entire engine well and add UV dye to the oil, the leak could be from somewhere completely different just running down to that area. It would also allow you to confirm it's engine oil and not transmission oil from the half shaft seal.
I would clean the entire engine well and add UV dye to the oil, the leak could be from somewhere completely different just running down to that area. It would also allow you to confirm it's engine oil and not transmission oil from the half shaft seal.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Oil leaks are a pain to diag, don't see anything out of the ordinary for the block
I would clean the entire engine well and add UV dye to the oil, the leak could be from somewhere completely different just running down to that area. It would also allow you to confirm it's engine oil and not transmission oil from the half shaft seal.
I would clean the entire engine well and add UV dye to the oil, the leak could be from somewhere completely different just running down to that area. It would also allow you to confirm it's engine oil and not transmission oil from the half shaft seal.
#4
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
A small leak like that isn't going to shed that much oil over its lifetime. You're likely just burning a little more than usual (it happens). Gotta make sure you're checking your oil every couple fill-ups. My Cobalt and Viper both lose about a quart every 1-2000 miles.
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
A small leak like that isn't going to shed that much oil over its lifetime. You're likely just burning a little more than usual (it happens). Gotta make sure you're checking your oil every couple fill-ups. My Cobalt and Viper both lose about a quart every 1-2000 miles.
#6
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
Interesting. Is the back side of the flywheel wet? AKA - is this a rear main seal problem?
From above, I would check the back side of the head to ensure this isn't just a leaking VC gasket - or anything else in that area.
Might be worth getting it up in the air (and level) and then just idling it, just to see if you can see anything. Might be a run-time only leak.
There's just a little metal bracket that goes there and covers the flywheel. It's more of a safety bracket than anything else though.
From above, I would check the back side of the head to ensure this isn't just a leaking VC gasket - or anything else in that area.
Might be worth getting it up in the air (and level) and then just idling it, just to see if you can see anything. Might be a run-time only leak.
So it appears I have a piece missing out of the block right above the oil pan next to the flywheel.
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
The rear main is also what I thought might be causing it, thats why I suggested the dye, you'll see quickly where the leak comes from. But you need to have a clean engine to start to make things easier.
#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
When my rear seal started leaking thats exactly what it did. They actually make a pour in rear seal stop leak that is very often effective, but it takes a month or longer to work. Its worth a try. My leak stopped after about 2 months, and I just changed out the rear seal a few months later when I changed out a clutch.
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
When my rear seal started leaking thats exactly what it did. They actually make a pour in rear seal stop leak that is very often effective, but it takes a month or longer to work. Its worth a try. My leak stopped after about 2 months, and I just changed out the rear seal a few months later when I changed out a clutch.
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
So it Turned out to be the rear main seal. The car still drives strong with the rear main seal leak. I have 215,xxx miles on this lnf engine. I bought a rear main seal & new gmpp clutch kit/ lightweight flywheel friction disc replacement as well. So I'm @ a cross road. Should I swap the rear main seal or the engine. The car drives as strong as it ever has. What worries me is that something is causing too much crank case pressure. Is there a test I could do to find out? 2008 cobalt SS full bolt on HP Tuned. Has had a pretty spoiled life so I'm leaning towards replacing the seal. Any Thoughts on the matter would be beneficial. I have an LHU engine in my eBay shopping cart just in case. I Do have HP tuners but I'm not sure how to log crank case pressure without a oil pressure sensor. I have performed the external pcv valve with catch an in line. Do I need a oil cap breather. I'm only tuned for 22 psi on stock turbo.
#11
Mine just started leaking as well, I originally thought it was the pan gasket. So I replaced it but its still leaking from the arrows location, which I believe would be an indicator of a real main seal leak.
#14
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Thread Starter
#15
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
In my case couldnt see the seal damaged but could see the leakage around it. Anyone doing this yourself I used a schedule 40 PVC fitting with a plug for a drive tool. Take your new seal to the hardware store, makes it a lot easier. I also had a friend tap with a small hammer while I help the seal/drive tool in place. Kinda hard to do by yourself as it wants to pop out every time you hit it till you get it started.
#16
Here is what mine looked like, not really sure what caused it yet. But ZZP was kind enough to sent a replacement main seal! Clutch was a pain in the butt to remove, hopefully putting it back wont be too much trouble.
#17
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
So it Turned out to be the rear main seal. The car still drives strong with the rear main seal leak. I have 215,xxx miles on this lnf engine. I bought a rear main seal & new gmpp clutch kit/ lightweight flywheel friction disc replacement as well. So I'm @ a cross road. Should I swap the rear main seal or the engine. The car drives as strong as it ever has. What worries me is that something is causing too much crank case pressure. Is there a test I could do to find out? 2008 cobalt SS full bolt on HP Tuned. Has had a pretty spoiled life so I'm leaning towards replacing the seal. Any Thoughts on the matter would be beneficial. I have an LHU engine in my eBay shopping cart just in case. I Do have HP tuners but I'm not sure how to log crank case pressure without a oil pressure sensor. I have performed the external pcv valve with catch an in line. Do I need a oil cap breather. I'm only tuned for 22 psi on stock turbo.
LNF PCV Valve 12589440
#18
New Member
Thread Starter
I would replace your intake manifold PCV. The PCV in my intake manifold wasn't doing it's check valve duty, so when I went into boost the crankcase was pressurizing with 25 psi.
LNF PCV Valve 12589440
LNF PCV Valve 12589440
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11-25-2012 08:58 PM