Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

oil on pistons

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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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oil on pistons

i have a lsj which i just rebuilt with brand new everything pistons,(diamond racing), new rings, cometic headgasket and arps and the head got redone. everything and the car is on boost and i changed the turbo thinking it was bad because it was smoking and i put a brand new turbo on it and it didnt smoke drove it around for a little and no smoke. parked and till next day and went to drive and and it starting smoking everytime i give it a lil gas,so i take out my plugs and and look down into the cylinders and the pistons are wet with oil all four. did a compression check and its perfect 180-210. and the oil problems isnt the turbo. anyone have any idea what it could be? motor has like 2000 miles and 1000 were break in and i really havnt gone wot on the car because i need to tune
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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Did you hone the cylinder walls before the new ring install?

Other than that, what about valve stem seals?

These would be my top 2 guesses...
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:16 PM
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what do you have for an oiling set up? more info about swapping the turbo? what turbo ? brand new?

what do the plugs look like? is the car running ok, or is there any issues? who rebuilt the motor? did this happen before the rebuild aswell? what ring gap are you running? did you hone the cylinder walls or have them machined or do nothing?

trying to narrow down your problem
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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Are you sure it is oil? Does it smell like oil burning? Or is it white? If it is white it is coolant burning.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTechRacing
Did you hone the cylinder walls before the new ring install?

Other than that, what about valve stem seals?

These would be my top 2 guesses...
bottom end was done at the machine shop and brand new valve stem seals
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:20 PM
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hey guys. i have been racking my brain trying to figure this out as well. i am his tuner. here is what i have concluded so far.

-no oil in charge pipes
-no pcv valve but the car has breather mods
-holds compression test well

it is on a gt35r dual ball bearing turbo

one more thing i am thinking of. richard do you have an oil restrictor on the oil feed line?
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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you dont need a restrictor on a ball bearing turbo, they have a restrictor internally


did this happen before the motor build or just after?
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BLAZIN07SS
hey guys. i have been racking my brain trying to figure this out as well. i am his tuner. here is what i have concluded so far.

-no oil in charge pipes
-no pcv valve but the car has breather mods
-holds compression test well

it is on a gt35r dual ball bearing turbo

one more thing i am thinking of. richard do you have an oil restrictor on the oil feed line?
Only catch is oil in the cylinder will "hide" a bad piston ring. The oil acts as a "seal" and will make the compression test look good... Just a thought to keep an eye out for.\

Asked but never answered "does it smell like burn oil"? Just making sure it is "oil"
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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what gap did you grind the piston rings too? or did you not do that... is it for sure oil smoke or is it coolant.

we need more info
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by glen229
what do you have for an oiling set up? more info about swapping the turbo? what turbo ? brand new?

what do the plugs look like? is the car running ok, or is there any issues? who rebuilt the motor? did this happen before the rebuild aswell? what ring gap are you running? did you hone the cylinder walls or have them machined or do nothing?

trying to narrow down your problem

oil return drains into a tank and then i have a electric pump that pumps it out of the tank up into the the filler cap.(turbo mani i have sits my gt35r to low and cant get a good drain into the oil pan, so i did a setup for the return like if i had a rear mount turbo) so idk if the oil problem has to do something with the oil going back into the motor threw the cap on the valve cover?
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTechRacing
Only catch is oil in the cylinder will "hide" a bad piston ring. The oil acts as a "seal" and will make the compression test look good... Just a thought to keep an eye out for.\

Asked but never answered "does it smell like burn oil"? Just making sure it is "oil"
i understand that but the car was running fine before. all 4 cylinders going bad at once is just too random.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BLAZIN07SS
hey guys. i have been racking my brain trying to figure this out as well. i am his tuner. here is what i have concluded so far.

-no oil in charge pipes
-no pcv valve but the car has breather mods
-holds compression test well

it is on a gt35r dual ball bearing turbo

one more thing i am thinking of. richard do you have an oil restrictor on the oil feed line?
i already did the .035 oil restrictor they have for the 35r
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by usdm08
oil return drains into a tank and then i have a electric pump that pumps it out of the tank up into the the filler cap.(turbo mani i have sits my gt35r to low and cant get a good drain into the oil pan, so i did a setup for the return like if i had a rear mount turbo) so idk if the oil problem has to do something with the oil going back into the motor threw the cap on the valve cover?
SHould be no problem, unless again a valve stem seal is leaking/popped off...

Originally Posted by BLAZIN07SS
i understand that but the car was running fine before. all 4 cylinders going bad at once is just too random.
True that... weird that the CP is dry from oil...

Last edited by TurboTechRacing; Dec 12, 2010 at 09:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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first how do you know its not the turbo, second if compression is good then its not the rings, now if he gets all the oil out and the cylinders look like this 180-210-210-180 id say has a leaking valve maybe the valve stem seal is bad, if you do a leakdown test how long does compression stay and what does it read. do this if you can take the turbo off the manifold and run the car like this, and take the oild fed line and plug it up. to verify the turbo is not the issue. or u can just look at the seals. wut i would do is leak down test , and a 5 stroke compression test. when warm. Also check your inducer side turbine for oil. maybe you have a lot of blow by.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by glen229
what gap did you grind the piston rings too? or did you not do that... is it for sure oil smoke or is it coolant.

we need more info
the smoke coming out is like white/blue and its not coolant, the coolant level hasnt moved at all.

and lets say i turn on the car and let it idle there for like 1hr it wont smoke at all, i tap the throttle and a little cloud of smoke comes out and stops until i tap the throttle again
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:29 PM
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is the turbo coolant cooled as well as oil or just oil?

and did this happen before the motor build or after? lets narrow things down
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:29 PM
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i jsut wrote this while all you guys were done writing your all post so dont hate... lol... blazin you said you tued him, whats his afrs at idle. in boost, and how much boost. remember this as well if you broke a rigland your compression can read good, but while driving the res go much much higher and turn the rings into sliding doors into the sleeves, so a compressin test will not really find a bad piston ring/ ring. id do a leakdown test.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
i jsut wrote this while all you guys were done writing your all post so dont hate... lol... blazin you said you tued him, whats his afrs at idle. in boost, and how much boost. remember this as well if you broke a rigland your compression can read good, but while driving the res go much much higher and turn the rings into sliding doors into the sleeves, so a compressin test will not really find a bad piston ring/ ring. id do a leakdown test.
car was tuned on a precision 6262 journal bearing, not the current ball bearing 35r. car bounces 13.5 to 15afr at idle.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
first how do you know its not the turbo, second if compression is good then its not the rings, now if he gets all the oil out and the cylinders look like this 180-210-210-180 id say has a leaking valve maybe the valve stem seal is bad, if you do a leakdown test how long does compression stay and what does it read. do this if you can take the turbo off the manifold and run the car like this, and take the oild fed line and plug it up. to verify the turbo is not the issue. or u can just look at the seals. wut i would do is leak down test , and a 5 stroke compression test. when warm. Also check your inducer side turbine for oil. maybe you have a lot of blow by.

but weird is that all 4 pistons are wet with oil and the turbo is clean, no sign of oil on it.
but dam for all valve seals to go back to get oil in all four cyclinders??

Originally Posted by glen229
is the turbo coolant cooled as well as oil or just oil?

and did this happen before the motor build or after? lets narrow things down
yes and yes

Last edited by usdm08; Dec 12, 2010 at 09:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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ok so we can prolly elliminate the motorbuild as being the culprite


are you running a restrictor on the turbo feed line? you shouldnt be since the garret ball bearing turbos have them internal
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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no joke but to me sounds like turbo seals bro, all 4 cylinders will not go bad at the same point, if it had to do with the engine i could see the valve stem seals being bad but that would men it would have been bad from the start. Or your head gasket is bad in all cylinders which sounds unlikely. letting all the oil galleys open to the cylinder. do you have a lot fo blowby.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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did you assemble the motor yourself? lining up the rings and oil rings in the proper sequence?? you cant just slap them in, they should be something like 30 degreess offset from the main ring which should sit facing the rear of the cylinder wall, and what gap did you file them too? dont want to see more then a .50 gap, should shot for .30 to .35
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by glen229
ok so we can prolly elliminate the motorbuild as being the culprite


are you running a restrictor on the turbo feed line? you shouldnt be since the garret ball bearing turbos have them internal
yes i do

Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
no joke but to me sounds like turbo seals bro, all 4 cylinders will not go bad at the same point, if it had to do with the engine i could see the valve stem seals being bad but that would men it would have been bad from the start. Or your head gasket is bad in all cylinders which sounds unlikely. letting all the oil galleys open to the cylinder. do you have a lot fo blowby.

turbo has no more then 30 miles on it and all inter cooler piping and intake mani are oil free

Last edited by usdm08; Dec 12, 2010 at 09:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by glen229
did you assemble the motor yourself? lining up the rings and oil rings in the proper sequence?? you cant just slap them in, they should be something like 30 degreess offset from the main ring which should sit facing the rear of the cylinder wall, and what gap did you file them too? dont want to see more then a .50 gap, should shot for .30 to .35
motor was put together at a machine shop and motor never got oil into it when i first put it together
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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compression check will test out how much pressure is inside the cylinder but will not test how long its there, so check it by doing a leakdown test.... if there is no oil in any piping then 1 its not the turbo unless the turbo is spooling to much boost for the engine and will cause alot of blowby, but as stated before theres no oil in piping, so either valve stem seals or ringlands. in between the sleeves is coolant so we know its not the sleeve.
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