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p0300 and plug issue

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Old 06-04-2008, 07:39 PM
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p0300 and plug issue

please i need help by the knowledgable fellas on this site. I've been sputtering bad at random times at around 4K'ish. Feels like it hits a brick wall, and doesn wanna move.. I usually let off, right when it happens, so maybe if i kept my foot down it would go into limpmode or something, but anyways. I jsut got the car back from the exedy clutch install and its happened two days in a row now, then I threw a p0300 that night. The plugs I have in there are brand new, and they are gapped at .035. My mods are 2.9, DP, gmpp exhaust, and a 90 shot. I havent sprayed on these plugs yet, but then again this isnt the first time this has happened. What plugs should I run, and what should I gap them at??
What is the problem?? could it be a blown piston or something??? I really have no clue, and I'm scared to give the car some gas, because I dont wanna blow something up. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks (if you have any questions feel free to ask)

Chris

help ppl plese

Last edited by 04redline0124; 06-04-2008 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-04-2008, 07:45 PM
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Pull the damn plugs and check them like I told you. Re-gap them smaller, and see if it helps. Or, get a different brand of plugs like I told you a long time ago. Your car was fine for me over 100 miles of driving on Sat night, so I dunno. Driver mod?
Old 06-04-2008, 07:49 PM
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plugs, bad coils?
Old 06-04-2008, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Pull the damn plugs and check them like I told you. Re-gap them smaller, and see if it helps. Or, get a different brand of plugs like I told you a long time ago. Your car was fine for me over 100 miles of driving on Sat night, so I dunno. Driver mod?
omg seriously dude, its got nothing to do with the driver, I pulled the coils to see if any of the plugs came out with them, and to see if there was any oil. The code was a p0300, and Im hoping my motor is blown, because I can't take this anymore. Not knowing what is wrong its pissiing me off..It;s either the injectors, pistons, cams, crank sensor, spark plugs, or coil pack connections. Anything we can do on HP tuners??? I really need to do this compression test man, and then maybe a leak down test I dunno

Originally Posted by BLKLS
plugs, bad coils?
how can i test that thoe??

Last edited by 04redline0124; 06-04-2008 at 07:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-04-2008, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 04redline0124
omg seriously dude, its got nothing to do with the driver, I pulled the coils to see if any of the plugs came out with them, and to see if there was any oil. The code was a p0300, and Im hoping my motor is blown, because I can't take this anymore. Not knowing what is wrong its pissiing me off..It;s either the injectors, pistons, cams, crank sensor, spark plugs, or coil pack connections. Anything we can do on HP tuners??? I really need to do this compression test man, and then maybe a leak down test I dunno



how can i test that thoe??
HPT can't fix the problem. P0300 is a general misfire code, which we know is happening. Why would the plugs come out with the coils? Pull the plugs and check them, clean and re-gap them to a smaller gap, and see if it helps. Its not pistons, its not cams. Crank sensor won't give misfire codes in most cases, but will totally shut the engine off. Happened to me. Check the plugs, thats where the problem is. I don't know about the coils, they seem to be fine, since its so random, but its always a possibility. Did you ever reconnect the boost line you have plugged?
Old 06-04-2008, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
HPT can't fix the problem. P0300 is a general misfire code, which we know is happening. Why would the plugs come out with the coils? Pull the plugs and check them, clean and re-gap them to a smaller gap, and see if it helps. Its not pistons, its not cams. Crank sensor won't give misfire codes in most cases, but will totally shut the engine off. Happened to me. Check the plugs, thats where the problem is. I don't know about the coils, they seem to be fine, since its so random, but its always a possibility. Did you ever reconnect the boost line you have plugged?
havent reconeccted it no. We shall see when we do the compression test. It has to be something man, and is there a way to test the connections to the coils with your meter??? That could help i guess. I just wanna figure it out, so I can go on with my moding life!! I wanted u to check something on HPT with that sprak table **** or whatever.. I would tell if im misfiring at idle, and I wann check for knock and ****
Old 06-04-2008, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 04redline0124
havent reconeccted it no. We shall see when we do the compression test. It has to be something man, and is there a way to test the connections to the coils with your meter??? That could help i guess. I just wanna figure it out, so I can go on with my moding life!! I wanted u to check something on HPT with that sprak table **** or whatever.. I would tell if im misfiring at idle, and I wann check for knock and ****
I scanned the car when I had it, there was no knock. I'm telling you, you got bad gas or something. There is nothing to "check" in the spark table, they are the same as they were when Eric re-did them, and they were fine until recently. Look to the simple solutions first.

If you did have a piston problem, it still wouldn't do what you are saying. My car doesn't, and I know I have a demolished compression ring/land on one piston.
Old 06-05-2008, 02:38 AM
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Check all the wires going to the coils to ensure they haven't been pinched or cut. Check all the electrical connectors in/around that area as well since the clutch job was just done in case something was missed by accident. Finally clear the code and run out that tank of gas and replace with some good 93 octane. If none of that works, then you might need to replace the coils. I've only seen a couple cases where the coils have died on here, but it's a possibility.
Old 06-10-2008, 05:40 PM
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update!!! it wasnt the gas, because it happened againafter i drained it out and added new gas. I put in injecotor cleaner and Seafoam into the car to see if i could clean the injectors and see. I have new plugs also that im gunna put in in a second, so all that is left that ican think of if it happens again, would be the coil packs. We did a compression test and it read 210 210 200 200 so those are good. Anything could help guys thanks!!!

o and also it doesnt happen in 3rd ever lol..jsut every once in a while in 2nd. Could it be the tune?? bad pcm? bad MAF?? It feels like fuel cut lol!! that is all the desciption I can give.

Chris
Old 06-10-2008, 05:43 PM
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do you have an intake? perhaps with an oiled filter?

cleaned your maf sensor lately?
Old 06-10-2008, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 04redline0124
update!!! it wasnt the gas, because it happened againafter i drained it out and added new gas. I put in injecotor cleaner and Seafoam into the car to see if i could clean the injectors and see. I have new plugs also that im gunna put in in a second, so all that is left that ican think of if it happens again, would be the coil packs. We did a compression test and it read 210 210 200 200 so those are good. Anything could help guys thanks!!!

o and also it doesnt happen in 3rd ever lol..jsut every once in a while in 2nd. Could it be the tune?? bad pcm? bad MAF?? It feels like fuel cut lol!! that is all the desciption I can give.

Chris
Bad MAF would throw completely different codes. As stated before plugs are your first place to check.

My question.....Do you still have a CAT on the car? When those clog they make the car run like crap under boost exactly as you are describing.

Originally Posted by 04redline0124
havent reconeccted it no. We shall see when we do the compression test. It has to be something man, and is there a way to test the connections to the coils with your meter??? That could help i guess. I just wanna figure it out, so I can go on with my moding life!! I wanted u to check something on HPT with that sprak table **** or whatever.. I would tell if im misfiring at idle, and I wann check for knock and ****
If your car is throwing a misfire because of knock then that means you are throwing out upwards of 8* of knock in most cases.

Last edited by Psykostevo; 06-10-2008 at 05:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-10-2008, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Psykostevo
Bad MAF would throw completely different codes. As stated before plugs are your first place to check.

My question.....Do you still have a CAT on the car? When those clog they make the car run like crap under boost exactly as you are describing.
nope I am catless, and yes I have an intake.. its a k&n..and i've never cleaned my MAF, but as stated it happens at totally random times, liek it could be fine and hten all of a sudden **** up. But recently its been happening alot. My buddy swears its fuel cut, but what on earth could be causing fuel cut??? And I wanna pull my injectors, but what would i be looking for once pulled?? I have no knock thoe. We logged it and there is never knock, unless it also happens at random times, and then it screws up the car.
Old 06-10-2008, 05:55 PM
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considering how simple it is to do, and how often it helps, id consider giving your maf a quick clean.
Old 06-10-2008, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by an0malous
considering how simple it is to do, and how often it helps, id consider giving your maf a quick clean.
will do thanks...any other help guys??? Maybe someone with a similiar issue
Old 06-10-2008, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 04redline0124
nope I am catless, and yes I have an intake.. its a k&n..and i've never cleaned my MAF, but as stated it happens at totally random times, liek it could be fine and hten all of a sudden **** up. But recently its been happening alot. My buddy swears its fuel cut, but what on earth could be causing fuel cut??? And I wanna pull my injectors, but what would i be looking for once pulled?? I have no knock thoe. We logged it and there is never knock, unless it also happens at random times, and then it screws up the car.
Maybe you are too rich. When you run too rich under throttle it causes the car to pop and act horribly, and usually a lot of tuners can't get the AFR right after popping the CAT off.

Running rich would cause no knock, but other funky problems.
Old 06-10-2008, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Psykostevo
Maybe you are too rich. When you run too rich under throttle it causes the car to pop and act horribly, and usually a lot of tuners can't get the AFR right after popping the CAT off.

Running rich would cause no knock, but other funky problems.
but my plugs suggest that it is running lean, because they are white... i need a Wideband bad lol..
Old 06-10-2008, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Psykostevo
Maybe you are too rich. When you run too rich under throttle it causes the car to pop and act horribly, and usually a lot of tuners can't get the AFR right after popping the CAT off.

Running rich would cause no knock, but other funky problems.
His tune is pretty much GM S2, as far as fuel cals are concerned. The only thing is timing is backed out under power, to allow for the 90 shot.
Old 06-10-2008, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
His tune is pretty much GM S2, as far as fuel cals are concerned. The only thing is timing is backed out under power, to allow for the 90 shot.
exactly...and i just cleaned the maf alittle bit, and changed the plugs again, so ill see..

Im hoping it was a bad plug to begin with, and the other times I fouled the plugs out because of spraying
Old 06-10-2008, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
His tune is pretty much GM S2, as far as fuel cals are concerned. The only thing is timing is backed out under power, to allow for the 90 shot.
What about the COT multipliers set to 1.000 and the temperature thresholds raised?
Old 06-10-2008, 07:30 PM
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So many things, but based on what you are saying (and have already eliminated) a far as misfire under load and setting a P0300...

-Replace your plugs with NEW stock plugs gapped at 0.035"

-Carefully inspect the plug boots to make sure you dont see and scorching from arc-throughs

- try unplugging your CAM sensor temprarily to see if the misfire is still present (you will get a MIL and a DTC but it will operate in a backup/failsafe mode)If the cam sensor is incorrectly timed (was it removed?) it can cause the condition you describe

- Make sure all your injector connectors are all correctly installed. Sometimes the the injector harness can be put on backwards and this will put the injectors out of the correct sequence. Besides the pink/blk 12V+ wire going to each injector the other wire colors are as follows:
#1 should be BLK
#2 should be LT GRN/BLK
#3 should be PNK/BLK (both)
#4 should be LT BLU/BLK

If that all looks OK then...
The crank sensor is the primary input used to detect a misfire, so a bad crank sensor CAN cause a misfire and CAN set a false P0300 series DTCs.Now I dont mean FAILED CKP (which would cause a no start) but issues with the signal quality itself. Unplug it and inspect the CKP connector and make sure it's not damaged or corroded. Sometimes the CKP sensor can take on oil which contaminates it's windings and create a misfire at certain frequencies. Since the CKP is not very expensive, the easiest thing to do is bang one in.

HTH
WopOnTour
Old 06-10-2008, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WopOnTour
So many things, but based on what you are saying (and have already eliminated) a far as misfire under load and setting a P0300...

-Replace your plugs with NEW stock plugs gapped at 0.035"

-Carefully inspect the plug boots to make sure you dont see and scorching from arc-throughs

- try unplugging your CAM sensor temprarily to see if the misfire is still present (you will get a MIL and a DTC but it will operate in a backup/failsafe mode)If the cam sensor is incorrectly timed (was it removed?) it can cause the condition you describe

- Make sure all your injector connectors are all correctly installed. Sometimes the the injector harness can be put on backwards and this will put the injectors out of the correct sequence. Besides the pink/blk 12V+ wire going to each injector the other wire colors are as follows:
#1 should be BLK
#2 should be LT GRN/BLK
#3 should be PNK/BLK (both)
#4 should be LT BLU/BLK

If that all looks OK then...
The crank sensor is the primary input used to detect a misfire, so a bad crank sensor CAN cause a misfire and CAN set a false P0300 series DTCs.Now I dont mean FAILED CKP (which would cause a no start) but issues with the signal quality itself. Unplug it and inspect the CKP connector and make sure it's not damaged or corroded. Sometimes the CKP sensor can take on oil which contaminates it's windings and create a misfire at certain frequencies. Since the CKP is not very expensive, the easiest thing to do is bang one in.

HTH
WopOnTour
thanks man ill have a buddy check that sensor for me to see if its corroded..that might sound like its the problem...i mean 3rd gear it never happens, unless the plugs are completely fouled (which it has happened once before)...where this might be located thoe (the CKP sensor, and the CAM sensor)?? maybe i can take a look....im really hoping its not the coil packs, since they are alittle expensive lol
Old 06-10-2008, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Psykostevo
What about the COT multipliers set to 1.000 and the temperature thresholds raised?
Not sure, I didn't do it. I just looked at it and datalogged the car to see if it would do it for me, but in several hours of driving time, it never did it once.

Originally Posted by WopOnTour
So many things, but based on what you are saying (and have already eliminated) a far as misfire under load and setting a P0300...

-Replace your plugs with NEW stock plugs gapped at 0.035"

-Carefully inspect the plug boots to make sure you dont see and scorching from arc-throughs

- try unplugging your CAM sensor temprarily to see if the misfire is still present (you will get a MIL and a DTC but it will operate in a backup/failsafe mode)If the cam sensor is incorrectly timed (was it removed?) it can cause the condition you describe

- Make sure all your injector connectors are all correctly installed. Sometimes the the injector harness can be put on backwards and this will put the injectors out of the correct sequence. Besides the pink/blk 12V+ wire going to each injector the other wire colors are as follows:
#1 should be BLK
#2 should be LT GRN/BLK
#3 should be PNK/BLK (both)
#4 should be LT BLU/BLK

If that all looks OK then...
The crank sensor is the primary input used to detect a misfire, so a bad crank sensor CAN cause a misfire and CAN set a false P0300 series DTCs.Now I dont mean FAILED CKP (which would cause a no start) but issues with the signal quality itself. Unplug it and inspect the CKP connector and make sure it's not damaged or corroded. Sometimes the CKP sensor can take on oil which contaminates it's windings and create a misfire at certain frequencies. Since the CKP is not very expensive, the easiest thing to do is bang one in.

HTH
WopOnTour
His cam sensor has never been out, to my knowledge. I had a cam sensor issue with my car, his isn't like that from what I see. Its not a constant misfire, so I doubt its an out of sequence injection issue or something like that, but I will look at it just to be sure. Plugs are good, no arcing that I could see. They are unusually white though, not nice and toasty brown like they should be.

I guess the CKP sensor would be a possible thing, I did have to replace mine, but my car used to shut down under power, did it like 3 times over a couple months. Still not really what he's having, but like you said cheap idea to try.

Originally Posted by 04redline0124
thanks man ill have a buddy check that sensor for me to see if its corroded..that might sound like its the problem...i mean 3rd gear it never happens, unless the plugs are completely fouled (which it has happened once before)...where this might be located thoe (the CKP sensor, and the CAM sensor)?? maybe i can take a look....im really hoping its not the coil packs, since they are alittle expensive lol
Crank sensor is above the starter, on the front of the block. Cam sensor is on the back of the motor, on the exhaust cam. Sensor comes in from the rear, lower side. I believe its a single bolt, but not 100% sure. I don't think your issue is cam related, too random. My car was ODD when it was off, your car feels perfectly normal all the time.

Last edited by ItalianJoe1; 06-10-2008 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-10-2008, 08:42 PM
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You need colder heat range plugs.

Mine were doing that right after I tried some new ones. Put the old ones back and no missfire!
Old 06-10-2008, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Psykostevo
What about the COT multipliers set to 1.000 and the temperature thresholds raised?
mults are still .15 and .06, but the temp thresholds are all 2300.

Originally Posted by Red2.4SS
You need colder heat range plugs.

Mine were doing that right after I tried some new ones. Put the old ones back and no missfire!
Same NGK BKR7E's that hes been running for a long time. Well, a new set, but the same type.

Last edited by ItalianJoe1; 06-10-2008 at 08:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-10-2008, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
mults are still .15 and .06, but the temp thresholds are all 2300.



Same NGK BKR7E's that hes been running for a long time. Well, a new set, but the same type.
Hmm well then. Bad plug? Did he use dielectric grease to make sure the connection doesnt arc?

Gap is good at .035, im running .040 myself on the same plugs.

Since its happened before it could be a coil pack(s)

This has happened on other cars.


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