Rocker arm fell off
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-05-16
Location: Jax
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rocker arm fell off
Hi everyone first time posting, few days ago I heard a knocking sound after driving for 5 mins bedding my new brakes. I shut it down and got my phone to record and second time firing engine sounded fine(probably rocker arm already fallen out). Thinking it was the timing chain tensioner problem I open up the valve cover and see that the rocker arm got ejected. I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to put the rocker back in and ensure it stays in. Looks like it was just the rocker, lash adjuster looks intact. Any help appreciated
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-05-16
Location: Jax
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-05-16
Location: Jax
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess I'll follow these directions for someone on yourcobalt doing a lash adjuster, will report how that went
-Remove the valve cover.
-I zipped tied the timing chain to the cam sprockets but I don't feel it was necessary... Better safe than sorry I guess.
-I removed the cam cap on the driver's side of the engine
-I loosened the cam bearing caps from the driver's side to the passenger side in order to slightly tilt the cam to get to the followers. (do not remove the cam, just tilt it slightly to get to the followers, it does not take very much)
-Remove the follower that was previously determined to be loose.
-Under the follower you will see a nipple. that is the tip of the hydraulic lasher. Remove it gently with needle nose pliers.
-Install the new hydraulic lasher.
-Place the follower back over the lasher and the valve.
-Gently re-torque the cam (progressively) to 89 inch lbs. (that's about 7.7 to 8 ft. lbs. )
-REMOVE ZIP TIES!
-Turn engine over by hand to make sure all is good.
-Put valve cover back on.
-Crank engine with ignition module unplugged to build oil pressure.
-Start engine.
-Remove the valve cover.
-I zipped tied the timing chain to the cam sprockets but I don't feel it was necessary... Better safe than sorry I guess.
-I removed the cam cap on the driver's side of the engine
-I loosened the cam bearing caps from the driver's side to the passenger side in order to slightly tilt the cam to get to the followers. (do not remove the cam, just tilt it slightly to get to the followers, it does not take very much)
-Remove the follower that was previously determined to be loose.
-Under the follower you will see a nipple. that is the tip of the hydraulic lasher. Remove it gently with needle nose pliers.
-Install the new hydraulic lasher.
-Place the follower back over the lasher and the valve.
-Gently re-torque the cam (progressively) to 89 inch lbs. (that's about 7.7 to 8 ft. lbs. )
-REMOVE ZIP TIES!
-Turn engine over by hand to make sure all is good.
-Put valve cover back on.
-Crank engine with ignition module unplugged to build oil pressure.
-Start engine.
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-05-16
Location: Jax
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok so it was also a broken lash adjuster. Put the rocker back in place, went to manually turn the engine, knocked the rocker off and also broke the top off the lash adjuster. Hopefully I got all the metal pieces out before I replace it...and the chain tensioner. Hopefully any metal pieces come out with an oil change, if not...
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-05-16
Location: Jax
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
The rockers are held "up" by the adjuster against the cam and valve. If they are popping out, you have a faulty adjuster that isn't staying pumped up. Usually see them ejected from an over-rev event, which can cause other damage but it's better than the valve staying open and smacking a piston.
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-05-16
Location: Jax
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The rockers are held "up" by the adjuster against the cam and valve. If they are popping out, you have a faulty adjuster that isn't staying pumped up. Usually see them ejected from an over-rev event, which can cause other damage but it's better than the valve staying open and smacking a piston.
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-05-16
Location: Jax
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#12
I guess I'll follow these directions for someone on yourcobalt doing a lash adjuster, will report how that went
-Remove the valve cover.
-I zipped tied the timing chain to the cam sprockets but I don't feel it was necessary... Better safe than sorry I guess.
-I removed the cam cap on the driver's side of the engine
-I loosened the cam bearing caps from the driver's side to the passenger side in order to slightly tilt the cam to get to the followers. (do not remove the cam, just tilt it slightly to get to the followers, it does not take very much)
-Remove the follower that was previously determined to be loose.
-Under the follower you will see a nipple. that is the tip of the hydraulic lasher. Remove it gently with needle nose pliers.
-Install the new hydraulic lasher.
-Place the follower back over the lasher and the valve.
-Gently re-torque the cam (progressively) to 89 inch lbs. (that's about 7.7 to 8 ft. lbs. )
-REMOVE ZIP TIES!
-Turn engine over by hand to make sure all is good.
-Put valve cover back on.
-Crank engine with ignition module unplugged to build oil pressure.
-Start engine.
-Remove the valve cover.
-I zipped tied the timing chain to the cam sprockets but I don't feel it was necessary... Better safe than sorry I guess.
-I removed the cam cap on the driver's side of the engine
-I loosened the cam bearing caps from the driver's side to the passenger side in order to slightly tilt the cam to get to the followers. (do not remove the cam, just tilt it slightly to get to the followers, it does not take very much)
-Remove the follower that was previously determined to be loose.
-Under the follower you will see a nipple. that is the tip of the hydraulic lasher. Remove it gently with needle nose pliers.
-Install the new hydraulic lasher.
-Place the follower back over the lasher and the valve.
-Gently re-torque the cam (progressively) to 89 inch lbs. (that's about 7.7 to 8 ft. lbs. )
-REMOVE ZIP TIES!
-Turn engine over by hand to make sure all is good.
-Put valve cover back on.
-Crank engine with ignition module unplugged to build oil pressure.
-Start engine.
#14
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-05-16
Location: Jax
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ended up using a whole roll of shop towels on it, replaced tensioner and lifter/rocker. No problems since, taking it easy though. I'll upgrade springs and lifters when I'm ready for more power.