killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

I did a clutch job recently and I couldn't figure out for the life of me why I couldn't keep pressure in my line when I reinstalled the elbow. I was searching through other posts throughout css.net and I found an article about a job gone wrong with someone needing to relocate from Canada to Ireland. A few pages out, someone was kind enough to post pictures of the very same parts that were giving me problems and I found out that when my brother pulled the elbow off when we were disassembling, he never turned it and broke half of the seal off. Also, my stem(?) isn't straight up like the picture is, it's more at a slight angle. My question is, can I replace the seal, or do I have to get a whole new slave clylinder and TOB?

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/6232586-post78.html <-- This was the post I was referring to

Edit: 2006 SS/SC

killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

Nobody can help me on this? My car can't get fixed until I know exactly I need to do. When I search on places for a new TOB, every picture looks like it's just the part that contacts the pressure plate and not the line that goes into the clutch line elbow.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

you have two seals in there or the seal was not on the clutch pipe correctly; remove the distrbution block turn it upside down u will see a seal in there it should be on the clutch pipe.
it should look like this before you put the block on
not like this - the seal is not there and if you leave it in the block it wont seal


here is the block correctly positioned with the hairpin clip in the correct place




you need to get a new clutch pipe and transfer the seal only. you cant buy the seal seperately. the clutch pipe should not move up and down in the black sleeve as shown in the picture.

this is a simple task that when done wrong can lead to having to remove the trans to properly install a new clutch pipe. Hopefully you can rescue this disaster.

dist. block with no seal in it. nice and clean


put the seal on the clutch pipe



like this




NOT like this



|I have posted all this before. For over five years this has been explained. look at this, check out crate engine depot.com for the clutch pipe, and be happy

killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the information. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem this simple. My piece seems like it was quite damaged upon removal. I don't know if it's still able to function or whatnot.
These are the pictures. Once again, thank you for the information.

Edit: It seems like my pin is on the opposite side of what it needs to be and I didn't put the little black seal on the pipe before I put the elbow on. Would this be my problem? I thought the line that comes out of the transmission was the seal. My bad.

09CobaltSS1

Next time just remove the clip when removing the block. You'll find you won't need a prybar to remove it at that point..

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

clutch pipe is bent, its gonna be a crap shoot if it works when youput it together right. it may. good luck

killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

When my brother took it off, he took the clip out but didn't turn it to unlock it off of there. He was all like "the ****'s stuck on here" I say, "try to pull it off without breaking anything", so he yanks and it comes off and he says "got it".

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

lol. troof. *facepalm*

killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

So it's a clutch pipe and not the TOB? That sounds ..better. Still have to drop the trans, right? And by "it may", I assume you mean that the little black seal is the only seal that would cause it to leak?

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

the clutch pipe has only one seal the other end is screwed into the TOB. U have little to lose by trying to reassemble it correctly and bleeding it. If this doesnt work, contact crate engine depot and order up a clutch pipe and a new plastic sleeve holder. remove trans etc. BTW removing the plastic sleeve holder is not simple unless u have done it before. dont wreck it.
i would suggest a new TOB if you did not replace that last time. good luck

killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. Information is much appreciated. That makes me feel better. I wasn't sure if you could only get that piece by ordering a new TOB. The parts counter guy at Chevrolet wasn't sure what I was talking about. Pictures would have helped but, coincidentally enough, my phone happened to get broke during this clutch job and I couldn't take a picture of anything. Once again, thank you Powell Race Parts.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Yeah i've pretty much as a policy started replacing the clutch pipe every time I do a clutch job, it's a $10 part and it eliminates any hassles.

I also have a couple spare elbows now from used/donor transmissions, so I pre-clean one and the clips and have it ready to pop on. Saves time and eliminates any chance of dirt contamination or damaging the seal.

killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

Good info, will do. This was my first 4 cylinder I owned, the first hydraulic clutch I owned, and also the newest car I've ever owned (04 Monte SS was next, didn't mess with that one much, was for the wife).

Stamina

Does anybody have a part number for the "elbow"? I'm assuming it's the same for both the SS/SC and SS/TC, correct? Does anybody have any information on what the equivalent part is for the F40?

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

comon!! clutch pipe? go to Crateenginedepot.com and look it up yourself! Contact ZZP F40 is not a plug and play and there is a lot of machining work they do to make them fit, they are the best folks to talk to.

CrateEngineDepot

iTrader: (5)

You will find everything you need by clicking here







and everything else

JapEatr

iTrader: (9)

^^^^

killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

So now that I have everything put back together, I go to start my car and I get a high pitched noise constantly, my car won't go into gear, and it's very loud. I did some looking around and I came to the conclusion that my TOB needs to be bench bled. If I am wrong, tell me what I need to do. As far as the noise, would that be my clutch or would it be the TOB making that noise? It's so depressing to get everything all put back together ..again just to have it all not work. Learning process sucks.

Stamina

No, not the clutch pipe, the elbow in between the clutch pipe and the line coming from the clutch master (the F40 equivalent to the third pic down CED posted). I've already got the F40-specific TOB and clutch pipe, and a new F35 clutch master-to-elbow. It's been next to impossible to find good Saab information though. I realize it's not plug-and-play. I've had ZZP's conversion kit sitting in my living room for months while FMSR has been busy building the F40. There are some parts that neither ZZP nor FMSR furnish though (and some things, like the TOB, you probably wouldn't want to reuse either if you've got things out).

CED, I spoke with y'all several months back and wasn't able to get much help because it was a Saab part and information is lacking on anything Saab related. A Matt Rominski helped me with the parts that I could verify I would probably need and he was very professional, friendly, and helpful within the realm of what he could do, but it didn't change the fact that very little reliable information was available about Saab F40 parts.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

^^^ Stamina I guess you are on your own. ZZP have done this conversion many times, and it would make sense to get guidance from them or pay them to do it. But you have chosen to buy from FMSR so clearly Rudy will be your mentor. Ask him. All the best, your stuff is nothing to do with this thread and the OP's issues which are greater than we had hoped for him.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

"bench bleeding" is a crock of you know what. Not sure where people get that from. Rubbish.
The damage caused by improper installation process, prybars etc is apparently greater than we had all hoped for you. Start over. Good luck.

killcitytx

iTrader: (1)

By start over, you mean reinstall a new TOB, clutch pipe, and what? Pry bar? How is that going to help me? There's no way to bleed this all the way without reinstalling a new one? Does this mean it's broken? Too many questions.. Kind of lost on this now, I've never had a problem with a clutch job before and this is my third one :/

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Noise isn't bleeding. You damaged something.

You can bleed the TOB as part of the system, no bench bleeding required. Any air will come out to the bleeder valve.

I personally vacuum bleed all the Cobalts I do and have never had to open the bleeder screw even, the vacuum process as per the service manual is correct and very simple IMO.

Powell is referring to you maybe using a pry-bar to force something in and in the process damaged it or bent/misaligned something.




How does the clutch pedal feel? Is there hydraulic resistance?
Does the shifter move normally when the car is not running into all gears?

09CobaltSS1

I would pop open the inspection cover and look to see if you can see anything binding or touching somewhere to make that sort of noise with the engine running. A tob alone isn't going to make the noises you are describing.

And yes, Mr Powell is saying pull everything apart and start over because something was clearly not done right somewhere along the line. I've done quite a few clutch and tob replacement jobs on the f35 and have never encountered an issue like this nor have I ever had to "bench bleed" this sort of tob. They bleed very easily and straight forward if done correctly.

CrateEngineDepot

iTrader: (5)

John and i have worked on why everyone seems to be having problems with the TOB's

for the most part these seem to be self inflected from what we are finding.
I have created a few links for how to bleed the system, and what to look for on the TOB's

To download a copy of the clutch slave cylinder (TOB) bleeding procedure click here

To download a coy of the clutch slave cylinder (TOB) inspection and warranty instructions click here

This may help some of you with your installs, but my number one adivce is to have either a dealer or someone with a lot of experience with this type of install help you or have them do it. Some times paying a bit more from the get go saves on having to do it twice.