06 SS/SC with a problematic issue of continuing to go into reduced engine power mode and will not start. I have had it serviced for this problem twice now and the problem continues. Via a costly process of elimination, I am slowly narowing the problem down. Need advice though. Car has Injen Intake and Exhaust.

Codes given: P2610 (Replace PCM), P1682(Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 -PCM)
, P1615, P2101(Throttle Actuator Performance-PCM), P0315(Crankshaft Position System variation not learned), P0443(Evap Purge solenoid control circuit), P023A (Charge Air Cooler Pump Relay Control Circuit), P0102(MAF Sensor Low frequency).

What I have done so far:
Replaced the PCM and the starter switch. Dealer sweared to me it would be fine after they relearned the PCM memory, but it still is acting up and being a pain in the ass.

Is there anyway I can get it to a dealership without having to get it towed? And how much am I looking at spending to fix the problem(s)?

 

remove gas cap, insert car.

 

MAF is number one cause of engine power reduced... go get urself a can of maf cleaner from auto zone or advanced and give the mass air flow a good cleaning see if that solves all your proplems

 

can a bad/unclean MAF throw the car into limp mode? Mine won't even turn over.

also, i went out to my car today and the battery was drained to 8volts!

 

Start by charging the battery and let me know if the battery is going to give you sufficent voltage,otherwise there is nosense going any further.
Try boosting the car but leave the leads on your battery for a little bit before trying to start it to let the voltage come up in your battery.

 

battery was recharged to a healthy 12.5 volts. awaiting to get some free time, then i will try starting it again.

**btw, my security light came out. called up my inside man at chevy, he recommended I reprogram my key just so that the car doesn't activate its security. (that he said, could cause it not to wanna start either because the car thinks its being stolen).

 

coblasts,

I recharged my battery like I said, waited a day and put it back in the car. It started up perfectly, although it idled a bit rough for a few seconds.

UPDATE:

Bought a code scanner/eraser. Let my car sit outside with the battery installed. Once again, without starting it, "eng power reduced" comes on. I clear the codes, but note the follow:


STORED CODE P2101 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance
PENDING CODE P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction

Taking it to dealer tomorrow. But i am happier than a fly on ****. I haven't been able to start my car in a week!

 

No ****... this exact same thing just happened to me tonight, but the only code I got was the P2101. I cleared the code with teh Aeroforce, ran it a little bit and it just happened again. Then I shut the car off, reseatted the connecter on the Throttle body that connects to that box that hangs off it (the motor housing) and fired it back up. Drove it about 25 miles home and it ran fine... though now I'm a little worried it's going to start acting up again.

 

no resolution to this issue?

 

I experienced this exact problem yesterday. I went into a store, came out, and couldn’t start my car. Battery worked fine, but it woulnd’t turn over. I let it sit for a while then tried again. This time it started but the engine light stayed on.

On my ride home, the car turned off twice, both times while sitting at a red light. The data display read “ENGINE POWER REDUCED”

Really frustrating. Not sure what’s wrong.


’06 SS/SC
105,000KM
Exhaust
Injen COA

 

you ready???!!!!...... the problem is your heat exchanger/intercooler pump... having same problem... mine happens to not be working... and you wont really notice it till it gets hot or you run exceedingly hard on the motor shut it off then turn it back in in 20 mins of that run. but generally under normal operating conditions on cold weather u wont notice the problem at first. start the car wait like 1 minute or 2 open the heat exchanger reseviour overflow thang... the one in front of motor (not on side) you will prolly notice u see NO flow in there. ding ding thats the problem... same damn thing has been happening to me... according to people on this forum they usually dont last but 50k ... im at 80k mine went at 78k ... so now... first one to find me one thats under 80 bucks wins lol. (also alot of people here have said that you can bea thte **** out of it with a hammer) i have tried this but to no avail. have a pleasant day

 

That sounds about right. I forgot to mention that I had an overheating issue with my car before I posted this thread. I thought I got it fixed when I had my radiator flushed and a high performance thermostat put on. The issue still comes with my engine getting in the 220 degrees when cruising on the highway.

I would suggest that everyone reading this keep this in mind: if you can buy a OBD2 scanner (i bought mine from Autozone), you can plug it into the cars terminal under the steering column, clear the trouble codes in the computer and get your car to at least start so you can get it to a mechanic or to your home. I know it really sucks having to just sit there helpless. I have tried all other methods, from removing the battery, to checking my voltage, it doesn't help. The computer will remember its trouble codes and you can't erase them without a scanner. (Screw GM btw, they now charge $80 just to hook up their own scanners to a car! RIP OFF!)

 

if u are really in a bad spot and dont mind killing battery and starter while your at it... your car WILL start... keep forcing it... wait like 10 seconds in between tries... eventually it works... after ALOT of attempts... basically what needs to happen is the engine needs to cool down to a certain level before starting. so if u have hp tuners and can make your fan turn on with key in accessory that also will help. dont give up in the failbalt...

 

how expensive are those heat exchanger/intercooler pumps? lol. And how hot has your balt gotten before it went into "eng power reduced" mode?

 

dammit i got the same problem

 

so far cheapest i have found is ~100 ... there are three dif ones u can use that are exact same... the ford lightening one. performance gm replacement one or bosch replacement one... they are all the same... just dif boxes . and my coolant temps where not high as the radiator still worked fine. but IATS where high because supercharger was just heat soaking so fast

 

Your intercooler pump being gone wont cause your car not to start.

 

agreed... the code tho is...

 

It wont throw a CEL if its gone either .. Mine was gone before and the car worked fine as far as day to day driving went just dont do any pulls.

 

If you are over temping on the highway,make sure you have the black plastic thing still attached to the rad that hangs down and scrapes the ground all the time when entering angled driveways.
It is more important then you will realize.

 

Got my car back from my local dealer. The car had a pending coolant pump code, but that went away when i replaced the thermostat. The reason why my car goes into limp mode is due to the engine system running lean he said.

He recommended I replace my air intake system with a stock one from Chevy. I currently have an Injen Intake. No other trouble codes came up he said. Irregardless, this is still an annoyance. He explained to me that my fuel to air ratio is being thrown off by having an aftermarket intake. This problem doesn't hurt the car, in fact it gets better mileage but will upset the PCM and the PCM doesn't like being messed with.

In response to what I posted above:

first off, i highly doubt a certified air intake from Injen would do such a thing. However, a dirty airfilter or dirty MAF sensor can throw a lean code.

Anyone ever heard of a lean code causing the engine to shut down/ leading to another code to cause the engine to shut down?

 

ok, this is it: lean code. injen intake and a catalytic converter that doesn't fit my car and bosch 02 sensors that don't meet the specs for my car either!

can somebody please tell me that this is the source of my lean trouble code problem? if so, then i think i might just be able to fix the world's worst cobalt. :P

 

I would stick with the oem O2 sensor,they are kind of fussy and dealing with mil volts any difference can change the reading and could cause a lean code.

As far as the injen had one on for 4 years with the injen filter(cleaned + oiled lightly 2 times a year)and never had any codes.

The cat you should of had replaced under warranty,they are warrantied for 10 years on are cars now.

If you have a exhaust leak that would be a source of a lean code.



But the limp mode is usually caused by something a little more drastic I would think.

Keep an eye on the inter cooler pump.

 

not to steal the thread but I am also getting the error at this very moment. last time i got it, it was a couple years ago they said it was the barometric pressure sensor and whatever they did it was fixed. but back then I was able to turn off the car, turn it back on and it would drive. right now I can get it to turn over and it idles fine and I can rev the engine without issue but as soon as I start driving and put any load on the engine it goes right back to reduce mode.

Auto zone doesn't open until 8 so im stuck trying to figure it out, did all the regular suggestions, disconnect for 10 min, let it idle for 5-10 minutes, drive without getting positive boost (which kinda works). This couldn't happen at a worse time, specifically for work but more financially.

 

Coblasts, consider the following and give me your bottom line up front opinion.

1. The car's cats (according to GM) don't fit and neither do the 02 sensors. That's because i bought the car without cats. The guy that owned it before me took out the 02 sensors also. I put them back on because the noise was too loud.
2. The car is running lean, which (according to GM) throws it into limp mode because running lean sets off other codes (like throtte position and temperature).

So, in your opinion, is this issue something that I can resolve with a good dyno tune? Granted, it doesn't fix the problem, it just tricks the computer into accepting lean fuel parameters as normal. Is that bad in the long run for my car? Will it mess up my cats?