shaking
The place I bought it from was a used car dealership 4 hours away from where i live (in college) so I can't really head there but we are working with my local mechanic to get the problem fixed i guess I need to go back tomorrow...
Where do I find my power steering fluid to check if its low or leaking?
Where do I find my power steering fluid to check if its low or leaking?
If it's loosing power and decelerating i would guess a misfire or a cylinder cutting out intermitently . Pm me your VIN and i will look threw the GM service history on the car. Maybe that will turn up some past issues , and atleast you'll know what warranty work was performed on it .
Do you have the owners manual for your car? The manual will tell you where the power steering fluid is located. It is a round cap that screws off, mounted to a small tank, located near the firewall. Clean the cap before removing it so no dirt will fall into the reservoir. The fluid should be clear and a yellow color. That's always a good item to check for safety.
Check your front brakes by running your fingers over the rotors. They should be smooth and straight on both sides, there may be small groves but those are normal wear. If you have disc brakes on the rear check those too, but you probably have drums on an LS.
Does your car track straight? On a nice flat road if you take your hands off the wheel does your car keep going straight?
Good news your transmission is not causing this problem. Transmission=expensive
Do you have the owners manual for your car? The manual will tell you where the power steering fluid is located. It is a round cap that screws off, mounted to a small tank, located near the firewall. Clean the cap before removing it so no dirt will fall into the reservoir. The fluid should be clear and a yellow color. That's always a good item to check for safety.
Check your front brakes by running your fingers over the rotors. They should be smooth and straight on both sides, there may be small groves but those are normal wear. If you have disc brakes on the rear check those too, but you probably have drums on an LS.
Does your car track straight? On a nice flat road if you take your hands off the wheel does your car keep going straight?
Do you have the owners manual for your car? The manual will tell you where the power steering fluid is located. It is a round cap that screws off, mounted to a small tank, located near the firewall. Clean the cap before removing it so no dirt will fall into the reservoir. The fluid should be clear and a yellow color. That's always a good item to check for safety.
Check your front brakes by running your fingers over the rotors. They should be smooth and straight on both sides, there may be small groves but those are normal wear. If you have disc brakes on the rear check those too, but you probably have drums on an LS.
Does your car track straight? On a nice flat road if you take your hands off the wheel does your car keep going straight?
I went to my mechanic this morning and for those that said router issue. You were right, BUT it is a computer malfunction as well apparently the code that affects ABS/TC/CC and other things is not worrking properly. So that might be cause the ABS and TC to kick on cause vibration (amplified by warped router) and deceleration due to the TC... Now its all about convincing the Dealer (used car dealer) to pay the problems since the car is less than a week old for me. Either way friday I'm taking it in for the day to have the computer tech try to fix the Codes and have new routers installed.
Hopefully nothing else is wrong
I don't have owners manual which is a pain, I do have an SS does that mean I have Disk or Drum brakes on the back... I never looked and now I'm too lazy cause I'm at work...
I went to my mechanic this morning and for those that said router issue. You were right, BUT it is a computer malfunction as well apparently the code that affects ABS/TC/CC and other things is not worrking properly. So that might be cause the ABS and TC to kick on cause vibration (amplified by warped router) and deceleration due to the TC... Now its all about convincing the Dealer (used car dealer) to pay the problems since the car is less than a week old for me. Either way friday I'm taking it in for the day to have the computer tech try to fix the Codes and have new routers installed.
Hopefully nothing else is wrong
I went to my mechanic this morning and for those that said router issue. You were right, BUT it is a computer malfunction as well apparently the code that affects ABS/TC/CC and other things is not worrking properly. So that might be cause the ABS and TC to kick on cause vibration (amplified by warped router) and deceleration due to the TC... Now its all about convincing the Dealer (used car dealer) to pay the problems since the car is less than a week old for me. Either way friday I'm taking it in for the day to have the computer tech try to fix the Codes and have new routers installed.
Hopefully nothing else is wrong
Ill bet u have a short somewhere.
Good news your transmission is not causing this problem. Transmission=expensive
Do you have the owners manual for your car? The manual will tell you where the power steering fluid is located. It is a round cap that screws off, mounted to a small tank, located near the firewall. Clean the cap before removing it so no dirt will fall into the reservoir. The fluid should be clear and a yellow color. That's always a good item to check for safety.
Check your front brakes by running your fingers over the rotors. They should be smooth and straight on both sides, there may be small groves but those are normal wear. If you have disc brakes on the rear check those too, but you probably have drums on an LS.
Does your car track straight? On a nice flat road if you take your hands off the wheel does your car keep going straight?
Do you have the owners manual for your car? The manual will tell you where the power steering fluid is located. It is a round cap that screws off, mounted to a small tank, located near the firewall. Clean the cap before removing it so no dirt will fall into the reservoir. The fluid should be clear and a yellow color. That's always a good item to check for safety.
Check your front brakes by running your fingers over the rotors. They should be smooth and straight on both sides, there may be small groves but those are normal wear. If you have disc brakes on the rear check those too, but you probably have drums on an LS.
Does your car track straight? On a nice flat road if you take your hands off the wheel does your car keep going straight?
Ever consider this may be the reason the prev owner sold it?
heres a long shot but could a balancer be off on the crank or rotating assembly? Is the car giving any check engine light?
heres a long shot but could a balancer be off on the crank or rotating assembly? Is the car giving any check engine light?
yes the routers are warped... That only accounts for a small problem with the shaking...I am a noob and Your all ******** for making me believe I have a power steering fluid resevoir lol (I looked for it for about 20 mins) and i'm not sure why a balance on the crankshaft would cause the deceleration problem...
yes the routers are warped... That only accounts for a small problem with the shaking...I am a noob and Your all ******** for making me believe I have a power steering fluid resevoir lol (I looked for it for about 20 mins) and i'm not sure why a balance on the crankshaft would cause the deceleration problem...
I know your prolly a little gunshy now but people do this all the time so you have nothing to worry . I help people with that info all the time . Look at the link
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...&highlight=vin
I don't have owners manual which is a pain, I do have an SS does that mean I have Disk or Drum brakes on the back... I never looked and now I'm too lazy cause I'm at work...
I went to my mechanic this morning and for those that said router issue. You were right, BUT it is a computer malfunction as well apparently the code that affects ABS/TC/CC and other things is not worrking properly. So that might be cause the ABS and TC to kick on cause vibration (amplified by warped router) and deceleration due to the TC... Now its all about convincing the Dealer (used car dealer) to pay the problems since the car is less than a week old for me. Either way friday I'm taking it in for the day to have the computer tech try to fix the Codes and have new routers installed.
Hopefully nothing else is wrong
I went to my mechanic this morning and for those that said router issue. You were right, BUT it is a computer malfunction as well apparently the code that affects ABS/TC/CC and other things is not worrking properly. So that might be cause the ABS and TC to kick on cause vibration (amplified by warped router) and deceleration due to the TC... Now its all about convincing the Dealer (used car dealer) to pay the problems since the car is less than a week old for me. Either way friday I'm taking it in for the day to have the computer tech try to fix the Codes and have new routers installed.
Hopefully nothing else is wrong
Vibration and tc/abs code / warning light? Check the wheel bearings, guessing one (or both) is sloppy enough that the abs sensor at the wheel is not always generating a signal.....since the tc uses the abs sensor to detect wheel spin, if the signal from the wheel is intermittent, the computer will think you have broken traction and reduce power / apply brake to regain traction.
If you have a switch for the tc, turn it off and see if it helps. If you don't have a switch, pull the e-brake up 1 click (just so the light on the dash illuminates), this will disable the tc.
If power is not restored with the tc disabled, you got other problems.
My $0.02
SS will have disc brakes on the rear.
Vibration and tc/abs code / warning light? Check the wheel bearings, guessing one (or both) is sloppy enough that the abs sensor at the wheel is not always generating a signal.....since the tc uses the abs sensor to detect wheel spin, if the signal from the wheel is intermittent, the computer will think you have broken traction and reduce power / apply brake to regain traction.
If you have a switch for the tc, turn it off and see if it helps. If you don't have a switch, pull the e-brake up 1 click (just so the light on the dash illuminates), this will disable the tc.
If power is not restored with the tc disabled, you got other problems.
My $0.02
Vibration and tc/abs code / warning light? Check the wheel bearings, guessing one (or both) is sloppy enough that the abs sensor at the wheel is not always generating a signal.....since the tc uses the abs sensor to detect wheel spin, if the signal from the wheel is intermittent, the computer will think you have broken traction and reduce power / apply brake to regain traction.
If you have a switch for the tc, turn it off and see if it helps. If you don't have a switch, pull the e-brake up 1 click (just so the light on the dash illuminates), this will disable the tc.
If power is not restored with the tc disabled, you got other problems.
My $0.02
So, my mechanic hooked it up to his computer to get a full diagnostic and we found that the power brake's booster? (does that sound right?) is not opening all the way causing my brake pads to rest on my router when the car gets hot. This leads to the router warping and heavy shaking. Not exactly sure why this makes the car stop accelerating but that could have been caused by the faulty codes which have been cleared. Since them some shaking has happened but lifting up on the brake pedal alieviates this... no more decceleration problems have happened the bastard used car dealer won't pay for my mechanic to do it so I have to take a day trip up to where i bought the car to have him do it... what a pain this has been
Okay well the problem has been fixed and diagnosed as a faulty brake booster. When the car got running fast the booster would cause the brake pad to rest on the router. If it got hot enough the brake would be completely up against the router causing the car to slow down. The router was very warped. After the brake booster and routers were replaced the car has been running wonderful for bout a week now with no more faulty codes.
Okay well the problem has been fixed and diagnosed as a faulty brake booster. When the car got running fast the booster would cause the brake pad to rest on the router. If it got hot enough the brake would be completely up against the router causing the car to slow down. The router was very warped. After the brake booster and routers were replaced the car has been running wonderful for bout a week now with no more faulty codes.
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Oct 16, 2006 07:38 AM



