well i've officially have my first "serious" problem with my car. i've noticed that my steering wheel starts to shake whenever im slowing down. i'll accelerate and get up to speed, and when it is time to start slowing down, i start to brake and the steering wheel will start to wiggle/shake.

and the wheel doesnt shake at all when im on the highway goin 70+, and i can take my hands off the wheel and the car will still go perfectly straight, so im pretty sure its not an alignment thing.

just wondering if any one else has ever had this problem with any of their cars, and what you guys might think it is...

 

rotors? warped? not sure on our cars... but its gonna be something with the brake system obivously....

 

sounds like rotors or brakes. not a big deal

 

your rotors arebad

 

will warrenty cover this?? im at 35000 and the warrenty is good till 36000. so if it is covered, ill definately wanna get that fixed soon....

 

they consider it normal wear and tear, so it most liekly will not be covered.

 

yea thats what my rents just told me too. ill take it in and see what they say, then ill take it to the shop next door to my work and see what they say too. hopefully this doesnt get to outta hand for the bank account....

 

just have your rotors turned. i promise it will fix your problem... also have your pads checked.

 

Ok, so what if the wheel ONLY shakes at 60-70MPH? Same problem, or could it be an alignment issue?

 

could be. or unbalanced tires.

but to the op, even if you had to get new rotors, or even have them re-surfaced, you're not looking at a ton of money. you can get aftermarket rotors for around 150 i think.

 

I think it's alignmet based on a previous event I won't get into, but thanks for the reply, kinda helped my assurance out

 

Your front brakes are bad.
replace rotors or if they have enough meat on them get them turned and buy new pads and your good to go.



Good Luck

 

I had the same problem with my car around 18 thousand miles. They turned my rotors and i had them shave a layer off my new hawk brakes b/c there is a coating on it that will warp the rotors if not done. They also had to mess around with my rear drums but i really don't know why. All in all i pad 70 bucks. not bad for a dealership pricing.

 

yea im gunna go to the dealership on thursday and talk to them. hopefully its what we all think it is...

 

Same problem here. I thought maybe it had something to do with the breaks, but I did not want to really consider it a possibility. I only have 16,000 miles on my car and I did not want to believe that breaks could be having issues already. I feel like this issues keep on coming. I love my car, but these little stupid a** issues that are arising here lately are really starting to **** me off.

 

ok I have you beat, same problem, shakes when I slow down, but I only have 7,500 miles on it

 

I had the same problem at 12k. I started braking softer and going a little easier on the car. The vibration has all but gone away. Sometimes it happens from making a really fast stop. I.E. I stopped for a deer at 50mph. All better now. I didn't touch anything.

 

These stock rotors suck. I don't do any hard braking at all and my rotors shake when I slow down too. Some dealerships have been nice enough to "turn" the rotors under warranty, but most will see it as a chance to get real cash from you instead of peanuts from GM. From what I've seen, the stock rotors have no air venting directed at them to cool them off, and they are not drilled, slotted or even coated to prevent rust. Best thing to do is live with it until you can upgrade to better rotors, IMO. (like the Unique group buy selling slotted/drilled/coated rotors)

 

if your wheel shakes only when you apply the breaks that indicates rotor thickness variation or warped rotors.

aligment problems would not cuase wheel shimmy. your car would pull to the left or right. wheel shimmy = breaks... out of balance tires = vibration at all speeds of driving but gets worse at higher speeds. good way to test rotor out of roundness or thickness variation is to get on the highway, do about 70, and gently apply the breaks, and let go of the wheel as your doing this keep your hands just above the wheel, and aplly a little more pressure to the pedal and you'll be able to see the wheel shake.

DISCLAMER: I am not taking responcibilty for the idiot that gets on the highway does 70, lets go of the wheel and just stomps on the breaks, doing this will cause one side to cautch the rotor before the other cuaseing a massive jerk in one direction thus spinning the steering wheel.. this WILL cause the vehical to pull in one direction or the other. and probably cause a wreck.

 

^^^ did the test today. cept it was from 60, but i dont think that makes a difference. and yea its definately gotta be the rotars. ne1 kno how much a new set would cost?

EDIT: crateenginedepot says 340 for a set of two for my 4 lug rotars. which means that im lookin at over 700 after shipping..... wow hopefully it goes away after i get the rotated.

 

Check these out:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/deleted-threads-89/oem-size-performance-cross-drilled-slotted-rotors-17882/

 

thanx for the link. but those are for the 5 lug ss cobalts. and im runnin on the 4 lug ls rotars.... in all reality if i found the 4 lug rotars from that company they would prolly be even cheaper then the ones in that link.

+ rep for goin outta ur way and gettin that link for me though

 

just have your old ones turned man, cant cost any more than 30 bucks...no point in getting drilled and slotted rotors, unless you do autocross

 

Thanks. Uneek posted in his thread he has fronts for the 4-lug balts too, just PM him for a price.

 

i bought new stock rotors for 100$. But you should be able to get them turned for ~50$, Your dealer will NOT cover them, sorry. just remember to let off the breaks over speed bumps, thats the number one way people warp there rotors.