Ok so my car clunks pretty bad when I go over bumps or any uneven road surface and when I turn the wheel left and right, so I am replacing the steering rack as I have already replaced the suspension and the end links to no avail. So my question is should I replace the intermediate steering shaft and the power steering electric motor? If so how much of a pita is it to do the ISS?

 

Its not that hard actually, just remove the ds wheel and its a couple bolts. Hardest part will be if it's rusted in there and pushing the rubber goumlet thing back through on the new shaft. Also make sure your steering wheel is perfectly straight before you do anything and make sure you don't move it at all or the spines will be off.

 

Ok I'll give it a shot, I hope I don't mess anything up lol

 

Is there a how to for steering shaft replacement??

 

I have a brand new in the box intermediate shaft. New rubber grommet on it.

PM for dated pics and a price.
I thought I needed it but don't.

 

Pm sent

 

Subd, need to do this myself. Any one have a link to buy the parts? Can't find them on RockAuto, or maybe I overlooked

 

I read somewhere on here that there was an updated gm design that was supposed to help the problem. My car does this too but only sometimes so i just leave it.

 

I found the steering rack on rock auto but I looked it up for a 2009 SS, I think they updated it in 08

 

Here's the rock auto one I found A-1 CARDONE Part # 231815
{#10373033, 15802533, 15816430, 25805999, 25956914} Reman. A-1 CARDONE Rack and Pinion Complete Unit (Electronic Power) Includes Inner Tie Rods
with Sport Suspension (FE3); Option Codes are on the Service Parts Identification sticker; Includes Inner Tie Rods
with Performance, Handling Suspension (FE5); Option Codes are on the Service Parts Identification sticker; Includes Inner Tie Rods

 

Here's the steering shaft

2009 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.0L L4 Turbocharged :
Steering : Steering Shaft Price
DORMAN Part # 425161
{#15799676, 15800140}

$63.79
Add to Cart

 

ACDELCO Part # 25956925
Original Equipment Service
GEAR KIT,STRG w/SPORT SUSP(FE3)

 

the steering column is a very common issue to. if the noise is made while driving straight on a some what rough road even with cracks in the raod and a rattle is heard its most likely the column. if the noise is heard while turning the shaft is most likely the noise. racks are the least common of the problems

 

Service Information Home Publications Number Search New Bulletins Bulletin Search Feedback Help
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt | Cobalt, Pursuit VIN A Service Manual | Document ID: 2896834
#04-03-08-006G: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns - Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair) - (Aug 14, 2012)
Subject: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns – Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair)

Models: 2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt (Including SS)
2006-2011 Chevrolet HHR (Including SS)
2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)
2007-2010 Pontiac G5
2003-2007 Saturn ION
This bulletin is being revised to update the Correction information for Condition #2. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-006F (Section 03 – Suspension).

This bulletin provides information on eight different steering/front suspension noise conditions.

Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a rattle or knocking noise that is heard in the front of the vehicle while driving at low speeds 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph). This condition may be more noticeable while making a slow turn or on a loose/rough surface.

This condition can be duplicated by the technician using the following procedure:

On a rough or loose surface (i.e., gravel parking lot), make a sweeping turn (either direction) at 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph to load the steering column, I-shaft and steering rack/gear mechanisms. The testing on a rough or loose surface will allow the wheels to oscillate slightly and will make the rattle/knocking noise more evident and repeatable.
Release the steering wheel while making the turn to take load off of steering components. This should initiate the rattle/shudder noise, which is generated by backlash in the steering assembly as it is in a no-load float condition.
Object ID: 1858410Click here for detailed picture of the image.
Remove the 60 amp EPS fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block.
Test the vehicle as in Step 1. Since the EPS motor is no longer powered, only the I-shaft and steering gear/rack will be loaded as you make the turn. If you hear the rattle/knocking noise during the turn, then the noise is being generated by the backlash within the steering column (assist motor gear mechanism).
Replace the 60 amp EPS fuse and repeat Steps 1 and 2 to verify that the rattle/knocking noise disappears when turning (loading steering mechanism) and can only be heard when releasing the steering wheel.
Correction #1
If the steering column is identified as the source of the rattle/knocking noise in the above test, replace the steering column.

Important: The noise in the steering column is generated from the metal to plastic gear backlash of the assist motor mechanism and will have a different sound than that from the steering gear. If the customer comments that they still hear a noise, it may be a different sound from either the I-shaft or the steering rack.

If the steering column is not identified as the source of the rattle/knocking in the above test, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Parts Information #1
For part numbers and usage of the column, see Steering Column Kit in Group 06.518 of the appropriate Parts Catalog. Saturn Retailers should refer to the appropriate model year Parts & Illustration Catalog for the vehicle.

Warranty Information #1
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7680
Column Assembly, Steering – Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #2 (Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR and Pontiac G5, Pursuit Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk or thump noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road surfaces. This noise will typically occur when the front suspension is returning to the upward position after a hard downward stroke, such as after driving through a large rut or pothole.

Cause #2
This condition may be caused by the jounce bumper slamming into the upper spring seat because it is not retained in the correct up position. The jounce bumper loses position due to oil being deposited onto its retention fingers. The oil is from the strut leaking.

Correction #2
For correction information, refer to the latest version of Corporate Bulletin Number 12-03-08-001.

Condition #3
Some customers may comment on a clunk/pop type noise coming from the front of the vehicle when driving over rough road surfaces.

Cause #3
This noise may be caused by the stabilizer shaft link ball stud becoming contaminated from moisture.

Correction #3
Inspect the front stabilizer shaft links for damage. To isolate the noise, the link can be also be disconnected from the stabilizer shaft. If the link appears damaged or if the noise goes away when disconnected, replace the link with the revised part.

Parts Information #3
Part Number
Description
Usage
Qty
20784686
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (300 mm Shaft)
2006-2011 HHR (FE1, FE3)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE1, FE3)
2005-2006 Pursuit (FE1, FE3)
2007-2009 G5 (FE1, FE3)
2003-2007 ION (FE1, FE2, FE3)
2
20784687
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (250 mm Shaft w/Washer)
2008-2009 HHR (FE5)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE5)
2007-2009 G5 (FE5)
2
20784688
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (250 mm Shaft)
2006-2011 HHR (FE1, FE3)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE5)
2005-2006 Pursuit (FE5)
2007-2009 G5 (FE5)
2
Warranty Information #3
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E2147
Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (Both Sides)
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #4
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition can also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 90° of steering wheel rotation in either direction. This clunk noise may also be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.

The following are characteristics of this noise:

This noise is very random.
This noise is independent of the steering wheel angle and independent of the bumpiness of the road.
This noise is a low frequency dull one and can be felt in your feet.
This noise can normally be heard from the driver seat.
This noise can be felt upon touching the steering gear from outside of the vehicle.
Note: You might also notice a slight scrub-type noise when turning the wheel back and forth. This type of noise is considered normal and repairs will not eliminate it.

Cause #4
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft.

Correction #4
Important: DO NOT replace the steering gear or steering column assembly.

Replace the intermediate shaft.

Important: If the vehicle has already had a steering intermediate shaft replaced for a similar noise concern that the dealer duplicated, determine from the customer if the noise went away for a period of time and came back, or if the service shaft made no change. If the noise was gone for a period of time and came back, have the dealer replace the shaft again to verify we do not have a defective service shaft.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Parts Information #4
Part Number
Description
15800140
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (Cobalt/G5/Pursuit)
15799676
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (ION)
22730246
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (HHR)
Warranty Information #4
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate – Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #5
Some customers may comment on a rattle/clunk type noise coming from the steering column when driving over bumps.

Correction #5
The following steps have been found to be very effective in removing this condition.

Object ID: 2003905Click here for detailed picture of the image.
Check for the possibility of the PCM and the TCM rattling/clunking together. If there is contact between these two modules, insulate the modules from each other using a small piece of foam.
Object ID: 2003906Click here for detailed picture of the image.
Check that the retaining clip on the engine coolant surge tank is fully seated. If not, push down to seat.
Rattles/clunks in this area of the engine compartment may be heard as coming from the steering column while driving.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Warranty Information #5
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E9458*
Repair to Correct Rattle/Clunk Noise in Front of Vehicle
0.2 hr
*This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
Condition #6 (FE1 Suspension Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk, thump or rattle noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road conditions or when braking.

Cause #6

Object ID: 2003907Click here for detailed picture of the image.
This condition may be caused by the lower control arm rubber bushing (rear) coming out of its steel sleeve (1). This will cause the lower control arm to make hard contact (2) with the body structure. This condition may be more prevalent in regions that use road salt during the winter months.

Correction #6
If the rubber bushing has moved out of the steel sleeve, replace the lower control arm bushing. Do not replace the bushing if it is still centered in the steel sleeve.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose using chassis ears to identify the source of the noise.

Parts Information #6
Part Number
Description
25984679
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (Cobalt/G5/HHR/Pursuit)
22688205
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (ION)
Warranty Information #6
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E3550
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Right) – Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
E3551
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Left) – Replace
E3557
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Both) – Replace
Condition #7
Some customers may comment on a squeak, rattle, pop, or clunk noise coming from the front of the vehicle during suspension movement.

Cause #7 (Saturn ION Only)
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft, the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and the front stabilizer shaft mounting clamp.

Correction #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.

Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) or the clamps:
Important: Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.
On vehicles built after VIN breakpoint 4Z125195, replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
On vehicles built up to and including VIN 4Z125195, replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and clamps. Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Part Number
Description
Qty
15820162
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2003-2007 FE1 Suspension)
2
20902787
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2003-2007 FE2 Suspension)
2
15820164
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2003-2007 FE3 Suspension)
2
22722387
Clamp, Front Stabilizer Shaft
2
Cause #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft and the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings).

Correction #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.

Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
Important: Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.
If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
Part Number
Description
Qty
20902784
(HHR Only)
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2006–2010 FE1 Suspension)
2
20902786
(Cobalt, G5)
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2005-2010 FE1 Suspension)
2
20902785
(Cobalt, G5)
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2005-2010 FE5 Suspension)
2
20902787
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2005-2010 FE3 Suspension)
2
Warranty Information #7
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E2180
Insulator and/or Bracket, Front Stabilizer Shaft – Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #8
Some customers may comment on a whine/hum noise from the steering column while making right hand turns at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h). A slight whine/hum noise is considered to be normal for EPS so it will be helpful to compare to another like vehicle. If the vehicle exhibits excessive feedback/noise when compared to another vehicle, follow the correction procedure below.

Correction #8
Important: DO NOT replace the steering column.

Object ID: 1858410Click here for detailed picture of the image.
Pull the 60 amp steering fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block. If this eliminates the whine/hum concern, contact the Technical Assistance Center for further information in order to repair the vehicle. If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

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Š 2013 General Motors. All rights reserved.

 

probably the cabs is they have not been replaced, and end links are popular. Its rare for the steering rack to go out but possible. They are the same all years all cars.
I am seeing steering intermediate shaft universal joints fail from corrosion on 07 cars. scary.

 

Jesus ******* christ copy and paste ******* king

 

I dont understand why you try to diagnose cabs in every suspension thread i enter...

 

perhaps you enter every thread that talks of suspension clunks? Ot because they are the principle cause for noise and fail so often.

SO. if you cant handle that , sucks to be you. No doubt I make and sell replacements that are guaranteed for as long as you own the car.

but I also pointed out that the steering shaft universal joint may fail, along with the sway bar end links.
I guess you cant handle that either.

some days.....smh. Not in the mood. I am a vendor here, I sell stuff. I help where I can.

 

I never said i couldnt handle anything. I respect you and your work and was not trying to put you down.
Personally my car has made a lot of suspension noises and my factory bushings have always checked out okay. The steering shaft or U joint is likely a better diagnosis given what has been said. Sorry if i came across the wrong way John.

 

no problem. I see cabs failed every week, i have a 2010 TC coming in saturday for just that.

maybe its the salt here on the roads, which is brutal.

 

That could very well be it. My car is from the south and even being FE1 and me endlessly driving it pretending im John Heinricy, my CABs are still intact until i upgrade to FE5 with your sphericals.