Stock clutch questions.
Stock clutch questions.
I got a 2006 SS S/C non-G85 3 or 4 weeks ago, and so far it's been a real pleasure. No problems yet, and this isn't really a problem (I'm hoping).
Any SS S/C owners notice that their clutch has a fairly large dead-spot before it engages? For example, with the clutch pushed in all the way, as you let it out there's (estimation) about 3-4 inches of travel before the clutch begins to catch. It's like it doesn't start to catch until the pedal is about half-way out?
It does engage progressively and fairly hard as I expect, it held very well under the 2 or 3 hard launches I've done with it, and by the time the pedal is all the way out the clutch has definitely fully engaged before the end.
Anyone else have this?
It's hard to make smooth take-offs, smooth shifts, and even harder to shift quickly when your clutch doesn't even catch until it's half way out. Just hard to predict. I'm used to the way the clutch in my last car (Cavalier Z24) worked where there was only maybe 2" of travel when letting the pedal out before it began to catch.
Is this a problem? Is the clutch getting worn out already @ only 11,000 miles? Is it a problem with the master/slave cylinders? Can the Master/Slave cylinders be adjusted to make it catch sooner?
Thanks in advance!
Any SS S/C owners notice that their clutch has a fairly large dead-spot before it engages? For example, with the clutch pushed in all the way, as you let it out there's (estimation) about 3-4 inches of travel before the clutch begins to catch. It's like it doesn't start to catch until the pedal is about half-way out?
It does engage progressively and fairly hard as I expect, it held very well under the 2 or 3 hard launches I've done with it, and by the time the pedal is all the way out the clutch has definitely fully engaged before the end.
Anyone else have this?
It's hard to make smooth take-offs, smooth shifts, and even harder to shift quickly when your clutch doesn't even catch until it's half way out. Just hard to predict. I'm used to the way the clutch in my last car (Cavalier Z24) worked where there was only maybe 2" of travel when letting the pedal out before it began to catch.
Is this a problem? Is the clutch getting worn out already @ only 11,000 miles? Is it a problem with the master/slave cylinders? Can the Master/Slave cylinders be adjusted to make it catch sooner?
Thanks in advance!
You clutch is OK. Our cars are not the easiest manual to drive I think everyone who has driven other manual cars will agree. It's tough to be smooth.
There actualy is a fix to the stock clutch problem. Here is what was found in a nut shell.
These stock clutches are capable of 300whp. The problem is people aren't shifting at high enough RPMs. You should be shifting around 3,000rpm for normal daily driving. That's what these clutches like. Most people shift around 2,000 or 2,500 rpms all the time and believe it or not that actualy causes the clutch to slip and create a varnish on the disc which creates slipage. We think we are being nice to the car but it hurts the clutch. If you start shifting around 3,000 or even 3,5000 rpm all the time the varnish goes away and the clutch grips like crazy. Here is the write up.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/drivetrain-79/how-make-your-clutch-stop-slipping-find-out-inside-36130/
I have been doing this lately and I have to say it works wonders.
There actualy is a fix to the stock clutch problem. Here is what was found in a nut shell.
These stock clutches are capable of 300whp. The problem is people aren't shifting at high enough RPMs. You should be shifting around 3,000rpm for normal daily driving. That's what these clutches like. Most people shift around 2,000 or 2,500 rpms all the time and believe it or not that actualy causes the clutch to slip and create a varnish on the disc which creates slipage. We think we are being nice to the car but it hurts the clutch. If you start shifting around 3,000 or even 3,5000 rpm all the time the varnish goes away and the clutch grips like crazy. Here is the write up.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/drivetrain-79/how-make-your-clutch-stop-slipping-find-out-inside-36130/
I have been doing this lately and I have to say it works wonders.
That is where it should be Just installed after Clutch masters clutch and you want the pedal 2-3" from floor so it will disengae completely. everyone who installed had disengagement problems until the system is bleed the proper way. So don't worry it's fine. but don't granny shiftall the time.
You clutch is OK. Our cars are not the easiest manual to drive I think everyone who has driven other manual cars will agree. It's tough to be smooth.
There actualy is a fix to the stock clutch problem. Here is what was found in a nut shell.
These stock clutches are capable of 300whp. The problem is people aren't shifting at high enough RPMs. You should be shifting around 3,000rpm for normal daily driving. That's what these clutches like. Most people shift around 2,000 or 2,500 rpms all the time and believe it or not that actualy causes the clutch to slip and create a varnish on the disc which creates slipage. We think we are being nice to the car but it hurts the clutch. If you start shifting around 3,000 or even 3,5000 rpm all the time the varnish goes away and the clutch grips like crazy. Here is the write up.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36130
I have been doing this lately and I have to say it works wonders.
There actualy is a fix to the stock clutch problem. Here is what was found in a nut shell.
These stock clutches are capable of 300whp. The problem is people aren't shifting at high enough RPMs. You should be shifting around 3,000rpm for normal daily driving. That's what these clutches like. Most people shift around 2,000 or 2,500 rpms all the time and believe it or not that actualy causes the clutch to slip and create a varnish on the disc which creates slipage. We think we are being nice to the car but it hurts the clutch. If you start shifting around 3,000 or even 3,5000 rpm all the time the varnish goes away and the clutch grips like crazy. Here is the write up.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36130
I have been doing this lately and I have to say it works wonders.
Know worry this motor likes to twist I'm set at 7250 rpm redline your just starting to wake it up.
Here is my list of performance mods so far hope to have NX kit installed in about 2weeks.
Performance Mods
1)GM Performance - exhaust manifold, Sport cat-back exhaust,Stage 1&2 upgrades
2) 2.8" Pulley
3) Injen Cold Air intake
4) Custom Progressive Methanol Injection system by Alkycontrol.com (Sponsor)
5) HP Tuner reflash and dyno tune
6) B&M Shifter
7) Inglis engine dampener
8) Clutch Masters Stage4 Clutch & pressure plate (Sponsor)
9) Clutch Masters Aluminum flywheel (Sponsor)
10)H& R springs
11)Aluminum Strut Bar
Here is my list of performance mods so far hope to have NX kit installed in about 2weeks.
Performance Mods
1)GM Performance - exhaust manifold, Sport cat-back exhaust,Stage 1&2 upgrades
2) 2.8" Pulley
3) Injen Cold Air intake
4) Custom Progressive Methanol Injection system by Alkycontrol.com (Sponsor)
5) HP Tuner reflash and dyno tune
6) B&M Shifter
7) Inglis engine dampener
8) Clutch Masters Stage4 Clutch & pressure plate (Sponsor)
9) Clutch Masters Aluminum flywheel (Sponsor)
10)H& R springs
11)Aluminum Strut Bar
Last edited by slacker; Jan 19, 2007 at 07:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Know worry this motor likes to twist I'm set at 7250 rpm redline your just starting to wake it up.
Here is my list of performance mods so far hope to have NX kit installed in about 2weeks.
Performance Mods
1)GM Performance - exhaust manifold, Sport cat-back exhaust,Stage 1&2 upgrades
2) 2.8" Pulley
3) Injen Cold Air intake
4) Custom Progressive Methanol Injection system by Alkycontrol.com (Sponsor)
5) HP Tuner reflash and dyno tune
6) B&M Shifter
7) Inglis engine dampener
8) Clutch Masters Stage4 Clutch & pressure plate (Sponsor)
9) Clutch Masters Aluminum flywheel (Sponsor)
10)H& R springs
11)Aluminum Strut Bar
Here is my list of performance mods so far hope to have NX kit installed in about 2weeks.
Performance Mods
1)GM Performance - exhaust manifold, Sport cat-back exhaust,Stage 1&2 upgrades
2) 2.8" Pulley
3) Injen Cold Air intake
4) Custom Progressive Methanol Injection system by Alkycontrol.com (Sponsor)
5) HP Tuner reflash and dyno tune
6) B&M Shifter
7) Inglis engine dampener
8) Clutch Masters Stage4 Clutch & pressure plate (Sponsor)
9) Clutch Masters Aluminum flywheel (Sponsor)
10)H& R springs
11)Aluminum Strut Bar
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



