timing chain tensioner...
11-05-2010, 10:03 PM
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timing chain tensioner...
Car is a 2006 SS/SC, has a little less than 59,000 miles on it.
Every once in a while I hear a faint rattling/knocking sound coming from under the valve cover. Last time it was doing it I took a long screwdriver and used it as a makeshift stethoscope and the noise is the loudest when listening by the left side of the valve cover, right where the timing set is and more towards the rear than the front. I've read about premature failure of the timing chain tensioners on the LSJ's, how likely is it that this is the noise I'm hearing?
Thanks in advance.
Every once in a while I hear a faint rattling/knocking sound coming from under the valve cover. Last time it was doing it I took a long screwdriver and used it as a makeshift stethoscope and the noise is the loudest when listening by the left side of the valve cover, right where the timing set is and more towards the rear than the front. I've read about premature failure of the timing chain tensioners on the LSJ's, how likely is it that this is the noise I'm hearing?
Thanks in advance.
11-05-2010, 10:06 PM
#2
Car is a 2006 SS/SC, has a little less than 59,000 miles on it.
Every once in a while I hear a faint rattling/knocking sound coming from under the valve cover. Last time it was doing it I took a long screwdriver and used it as a makeshift stethoscope and the noise is the loudest when listening by the left side of the valve cover, right where the timing set is and more towards the rear than the front. I've read about premature failure of the timing chain tensioners on the LSJ's, how likely is it that this is the noise I'm hearing?
Thanks in advance.
Every once in a while I hear a faint rattling/knocking sound coming from under the valve cover. Last time it was doing it I took a long screwdriver and used it as a makeshift stethoscope and the noise is the loudest when listening by the left side of the valve cover, right where the timing set is and more towards the rear than the front. I've read about premature failure of the timing chain tensioners on the LSJ's, how likely is it that this is the noise I'm hearing?
Thanks in advance.
You can get them from Crate Engine Depot for like $40.
11-05-2010, 10:21 PM
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Usually the Timing Chain Tensioners will make a very loud, distinct tick/clack right after start-up. Mine never did it after the car was warmed up. But its a cheap, easy part to change... so maybe you should just go ahead and do it. Its as simple as unscrewing and removing the old one... and screwing the new one in.
You can get them from Crate Engine Depot for like $40.
You can get them from Crate Engine Depot for like $40.
I can't really afford to just do it though if that's not the issue, I'm a full time student and I got laid off a few weeks ago, so cash is really tight. I'm hoping to get this noise taken care of, get the wheel bearing fixed, replace the i/c pump and reverse light switch and get rid of this car. It's been nothing but problems since I got it and it's nickle and dimeing me every single weekend.
11-06-2010, 11:00 AM
#4
The Timing Chain Tensioner is absolutely necessary... so I would set that at the top of the priority list. If it goes... you're buying a whole new valvetrain.
I/C Pump isn't that important, same with the reverse light switch. Actually, If you want... you can have the Reverse Light switch out of my old Transmission. Changing your's will probably be a royal PITA because of its location. If you buy the Timing Chain Tensioner then bring the car down here... we can change them both in one night. Maybe even help you out with any other problems you might have. You get a wheel bearing, we might be able to do that too. I have a press. But I've never done a Cobalt Wheel Bearing... so I'm not 100% sure on the procedure. Should be simple though. I'll even give you the Reverse Light Switch free of charge.
And that's how these cars are. They usually have two hands full of problems all at once. Can be a real bitch sometimes.
I/C Pump isn't that important, same with the reverse light switch. Actually, If you want... you can have the Reverse Light switch out of my old Transmission. Changing your's will probably be a royal PITA because of its location. If you buy the Timing Chain Tensioner then bring the car down here... we can change them both in one night. Maybe even help you out with any other problems you might have. You get a wheel bearing, we might be able to do that too. I have a press. But I've never done a Cobalt Wheel Bearing... so I'm not 100% sure on the procedure. Should be simple though. I'll even give you the Reverse Light Switch free of charge.
And that's how these cars are. They usually have two hands full of problems all at once. Can be a real bitch sometimes.
11-06-2010, 11:52 AM
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The Timing Chain Tensioner is absolutely necessary... so I would set that at the top of the priority list. If it goes... you're buying a whole new valvetrain.
I/C Pump isn't that important, same with the reverse light switch. Actually, If you want... you can have the Reverse Light switch out of my old Transmission. Changing your's will probably be a royal PITA because of its location. If you buy the Timing Chain Tensioner then bring the car down here... we can change them both in one night. Maybe even help you out with any other problems you might have. You get a wheel bearing, we might be able to do that too. I have a press. But I've never done a Cobalt Wheel Bearing... so I'm not 100% sure on the procedure. Should be simple though. I'll even give you the Reverse Light Switch free of charge.
And that's how these cars are. They usually have two hands full of problems all at once. Can be a real bitch sometimes.
I/C Pump isn't that important, same with the reverse light switch. Actually, If you want... you can have the Reverse Light switch out of my old Transmission. Changing your's will probably be a royal PITA because of its location. If you buy the Timing Chain Tensioner then bring the car down here... we can change them both in one night. Maybe even help you out with any other problems you might have. You get a wheel bearing, we might be able to do that too. I have a press. But I've never done a Cobalt Wheel Bearing... so I'm not 100% sure on the procedure. Should be simple though. I'll even give you the Reverse Light Switch free of charge.
And that's how these cars are. They usually have two hands full of problems all at once. Can be a real bitch sometimes.
The timing chain tensioner I'm not worried about either, from what I read you just take the vc off and change it out?
I'm taking the car to the dealership on Tuesday to see if I can get any of this stuff covered under the 60K mile powertrain warranty. They covered my the wheel bearing on my dad's '07 Silverado, so I'm hoping they'll cover mine as well. If not I'll just change the whole hub assembly (that's what I've always done in the past when I've changed wheel bearings) it's a lot easier than getting the old bearings out and pressing new ones in. I do appreciate the offer though
If I end up keeping the car maybe I can swing down sometime to meet up with some other css.net guys though, and maybe I'll take you up on that reverse light switch if it's not a pita to change out.This car definitely has "personality", I like it but I can't keep fixing one thing and having two things needing replaced the next week.
11-06-2010, 12:10 PM
#8
I heard the reverse light switch on the non-g85 transmission isn't too bad to change?
The timing chain tensioner I'm not worried about either, from what I read you just take the vc off and change it out?
I'm taking the car to the dealership on Tuesday to see if I can get any of this stuff covered under the 60K mile powertrain warranty. They covered my the wheel bearing on my dad's '07 Silverado, so I'm hoping they'll cover mine as well. If not I'll just change the whole hub assembly (that's what I've always done in the past when I've changed wheel bearings) it's a lot easier than getting the old bearings out and pressing new ones in. I do appreciate the offer though If I end up keeping the car maybe I can swing down sometime to meet up with some other css.net guys though, and maybe I'll take you up on that reverse light switch if it's not a pita to change out.
This car definitely has "personality", I like it but I can't keep fixing one thing and having two things needing replaced the next week.
The timing chain tensioner I'm not worried about either, from what I read you just take the vc off and change it out?
I'm taking the car to the dealership on Tuesday to see if I can get any of this stuff covered under the 60K mile powertrain warranty. They covered my the wheel bearing on my dad's '07 Silverado, so I'm hoping they'll cover mine as well. If not I'll just change the whole hub assembly (that's what I've always done in the past when I've changed wheel bearings) it's a lot easier than getting the old bearings out and pressing new ones in. I do appreciate the offer though
If I end up keeping the car maybe I can swing down sometime to meet up with some other css.net guys though, and maybe I'll take you up on that reverse light switch if it's not a pita to change out.This car definitely has "personality", I like it but I can't keep fixing one thing and having two things needing replaced the next week.
And push through the tough time with the car... and it should be fine after that. I went through a slew of small problems and nearly sold the car when it was around 60k miles, too.
11-06-2010, 12:39 PM
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I've never had to change the Reverse Light Switch... but I'd think that'd be covered under warranty, as well. And the new Timing Chain Tensioner is even easier to change than that. You literally just take the old one out, and put the new one in. The only thing you have to be careful about is making sure the old one doesn't completely fall apart before you get it out of the motor.
And push through the tough time with the car... and it should be fine after that. I went through a slew of small problems and nearly sold the car when it was around 60k miles, too.
And push through the tough time with the car... and it should be fine after that. I went through a slew of small problems and nearly sold the car when it was around 60k miles, too.
That makes me wonder what else I'm going to find out is wrong with this car, you know? I rushed into buying this car because I had sold my old gtp and the fall semester was about to start so I needed a car to commute to school in. I have some mods planned out for the car if I keep it but it's hard to justify keeping it right now.
11-07-2010, 01:14 AM
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You know, i drive an 07 ss sc and ive been up the dealers ass on this one and even showed them video, but they said they wont look until it actually happens for them. I will drive the car, hang out at Tim hortons for an hour or so, then i start it, and viola, the infamous rattling. Sounds like a bolt getting flung around inside my engine,and i rev to about 5000 and usually will go away. They always said its an exspensive job to do? Is that true?
11-08-2010, 11:26 AM
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I found this in another thread:
The manufacture date on the inside of my door says 04/06, so My car is definitely in that range. I'm taking it in to the dealership tomorrow for wheel bearings under the powertrain warranty. The timing chain tensioner is also part of the powertrain so this could be covered as well. They might even cover the I/C pump.
If not I'll just replace the stuff myself, but If I don't have to pay for the parts that's all the better.
Freek Posted this a few years ago but it wasn't made public in GM Service Information ...... It was on a call in basis only .
AIP3252
MODELS:
206-2007 CHEVROLET COBALT, COBALT SS
2006-2007 CHEVROLET HHR
2006-2007 CHEVROLET MALIBU
2007 PONTIAC G5
2006-2007 PONTIAC G6
2006 PONTIAC PURSUIT(CANADA ONLY)
2006-2007 PONTIAC SOLSTICE
2006-2007 SATURN ION REDLINE
2007 SATURN SKY
BUILT BETWEEN 4/1/06 - 11/1/06
WITH ANY OF THE FOLLOWING ENGINES
2.0 ENGINE (VIN P - RPO LSJ)
2.2 ENGINE (VIN D OR F - RPO L61)
2.4 ENGINE (VIN B OR P - RPO LE5)
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
CONDITION/CONCERN:
On rare occasions, a tick or rattle noise may be heard from behind the front cover of the engine and/or pieces of a timing chain roller may be found during an oil change. This may be the result of a timing chain concern.
Non-heat treated timing chain rollers were randomly installed in the assembly line hoppers. He advised that this happened sometime between 4/1/06 - 11/1/06 so it can randomly affect late 2006 - early 2007 models.
RECOMMENDATION/INSTRUCTIONS:
If this concern is experienced, inspect the timing chain for missing or damaged timing chain rollers. If a missing or damaged timing chain roller is found, replace the timing chain and gears using the part numbers currently listed in the parts catalog.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Yep that is the revised tensioner .... it stopped the ticking in my old car .
AIP3252
MODELS:
206-2007 CHEVROLET COBALT, COBALT SS
2006-2007 CHEVROLET HHR
2006-2007 CHEVROLET MALIBU
2007 PONTIAC G5
2006-2007 PONTIAC G6
2006 PONTIAC PURSUIT(CANADA ONLY)
2006-2007 PONTIAC SOLSTICE
2006-2007 SATURN ION REDLINE
2007 SATURN SKY
BUILT BETWEEN 4/1/06 - 11/1/06
WITH ANY OF THE FOLLOWING ENGINES
2.0 ENGINE (VIN P - RPO LSJ)
2.2 ENGINE (VIN D OR F - RPO L61)
2.4 ENGINE (VIN B OR P - RPO LE5)
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
CONDITION/CONCERN:
On rare occasions, a tick or rattle noise may be heard from behind the front cover of the engine and/or pieces of a timing chain roller may be found during an oil change. This may be the result of a timing chain concern.
Non-heat treated timing chain rollers were randomly installed in the assembly line hoppers. He advised that this happened sometime between 4/1/06 - 11/1/06 so it can randomly affect late 2006 - early 2007 models.
RECOMMENDATION/INSTRUCTIONS:
If this concern is experienced, inspect the timing chain for missing or damaged timing chain rollers. If a missing or damaged timing chain roller is found, replace the timing chain and gears using the part numbers currently listed in the parts catalog.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Yep that is the revised tensioner .... it stopped the ticking in my old car .
The manufacture date on the inside of my door says 04/06, so My car is definitely in that range. I'm taking it in to the dealership tomorrow for wheel bearings under the powertrain warranty. The timing chain tensioner is also part of the powertrain so this could be covered as well. They might even cover the I/C pump.
If not I'll just replace the stuff myself, but If I don't have to pay for the parts that's all the better.
11-08-2010, 12:33 PM
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I don't know if the heat treated tensioner actually makes a difference but I do know that the better design is a single piece and the one I have is not. Someone with more knowledge on this subject may be able to explain that better than I just did. I would assume the part number is different though, if it was some kind of revision to the tensioner.
11-08-2010, 02:30 PM
#14
You know, i drive an 07 ss sc and ive been up the dealers ass on this one and even showed them video, but they said they wont look until it actually happens for them. I will drive the car, hang out at Tim hortons for an hour or so, then i start it, and viola, the infamous rattling. Sounds like a bolt getting flung around inside my engine,and i rev to about 5000 and usually will go away. They always said its an exspensive job to do? Is that true?
IIRC, all 05-07's came with the old style Tensioner... the new tensioner that you can buy from CrateEngineDepot is of new design, and is MUCH better.
Ecotec Timing Chain Tensioner 12608580 - Crate Engine Depot
Buy that. Unscrew the old one (same size socket as the oil filter)... GENTLY pull it out. Screw in new one. Start motor. Car will probably tick for a few seconds... and then the Tensioner will set itself and all will be good.
11-08-2010, 03:13 PM
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No... it costs about $40.
IIRC, all 05-07's came with the old style Tensioner... the new tensioner that you can buy from CrateEngineDepot is of new design, and is MUCH better.
Ecotec Timing Chain Tensioner 12608580 - Crate Engine Depot
Buy that. Unscrew the old one (same size socket as the oil filter)... GENTLY pull it out. Screw in new one. Start motor. Car will probably tick for a few seconds... and then the Tensioner will set itself and all will be good.
IIRC, all 05-07's came with the old style Tensioner... the new tensioner that you can buy from CrateEngineDepot is of new design, and is MUCH better.
Ecotec Timing Chain Tensioner 12608580 - Crate Engine Depot
Buy that. Unscrew the old one (same size socket as the oil filter)... GENTLY pull it out. Screw in new one. Start motor. Car will probably tick for a few seconds... and then the Tensioner will set itself and all will be good.
Are the pieces (I'm saying pieces because I'm assuming the old one will come out in more than one piece) made of a metal that I can grab with a magnet? So that nothing falls down when taking the old tensioner out?
11-08-2010, 03:31 PM
#18
This is what mine looked like when it came out.
There is another piece or two there, as well.
01-14-2011, 04:45 AM
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OMG! Thanks for links about parts.
But I scaring about: if old tensioner will be disassemble inside ... and some parts of it will fall down in chain?
Or i don't need to scare about it?
But I scaring about: if old tensioner will be disassemble inside ... and some parts of it will fall down in chain?
Or i don't need to scare about it?
01-14-2011, 06:33 AM
#20
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No... it costs about $40.
IIRC, all 05-07's came with the old style Tensioner... the new tensioner that you can buy from CrateEngineDepot is of new design, and is MUCH better.
Ecotec Timing Chain Tensioner 12608580 - Crate Engine Depot
Buy that. Unscrew the old one (same size socket as the oil filter)... GENTLY pull it out. Screw in new one. Start motor. Car will probably tick for a few seconds... and then the Tensioner will set itself and all will be good.
IIRC, all 05-07's came with the old style Tensioner... the new tensioner that you can buy from CrateEngineDepot is of new design, and is MUCH better.
Ecotec Timing Chain Tensioner 12608580 - Crate Engine Depot
Buy that. Unscrew the old one (same size socket as the oil filter)... GENTLY pull it out. Screw in new one. Start motor. Car will probably tick for a few seconds... and then the Tensioner will set itself and all will be good.
01-14-2011, 10:25 AM
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I have an ecotec timing chain tensioner retracting tool, so when you take the tensioner out and need to compress it before putting it back in, this is the tool that does it.
For sale!
For sale!