Tcobalt421

iTrader: (14)

hey guys, here's my problem, after about 10 or so minutes in the car the check engine light will come on and go off periodically, but the T/C light comes on also and only goes off once in a while, while the T/C signal is on, the car lurches hard from 1st into 2nd gear, followed by me personally discovering as i climb through the gears she just doesn't run quite right. and suggestions on what this could be?

^ i have a 2.4 automatic

wollis1

dude, same boat as u. just started happening too..... im thinking the traction control modulator. as for the check engine light, do you have any mods?

Phil424

You have to get the code read, there are 100s of codes we can't help you until we know what code/codes the computer is throwing.

wollis1

yea i already booked an appointment for tmrw morning so its all good.

Cormyre

Having this same issue, any info would be greatly appreciated (06 NA SS)

wollis1

any updates on this? the guys at my local dealership are either too lazy or stupid to figure out whats goin on....... cant recreate the issue, blah blah blah.

SunburstSS

iTrader: (48)

I had the same problem on my old cavy...it turned out to be the wiring for the iat sensor on the air intake...the wire itself was actually fried...I rewired it and got it reset and all worked fine...check the codes 1st...

Tcobalt421

iTrader: (14)

i took it to my trusted mechanic, he said their is no issues with it but i explained to him that everytime the traction control button comes on, the car like lurches into gears very weird. im taking it back when i have a chance so he can go over it again, more in depth. that is bs dude what the dealership is telling you

wollis1

mmhmm..... im about to get a scanner and check **** out myself. u guys know if regular obd ii scanners will pick up **** like this?

SunburstSS

iTrader: (48)

it should pick it up...mine use to shift very hard as **** and the traction and check eng light were on....

wollis1

when i brought the car in the first time, both of those lights were on. they checked what was up, replaced the exhaust camshaft actuator, and the t/c light didnt come back on for a week. now its back to coming on after any drive more than like 5 or 10 mins, and once its on it stays on. only time it goes off is when i make an appointment, then its off by the time i take my car in lol

SunburstSS

iTrader: (48)

yeap happened to me too...its annoying when it shifts like crap lol...but yeah try gettting the code ! you dont by any chance have an aftermarket intake on the car do you ?

nvm saw that you have K&N Sri....Try putting the stock back on, reset the codes and see what happens

wollis1

so i went out this morning, jacked the car up and sprayed some contact cleaner on some of the elctrical connections under the car. just went for a drive and it seems like everything is normal, so fingers crossed this works for good. still gonna be picking up a scanner sometime soon just in case...

SunburstSS

iTrader: (48)

if you have a laptop you can pick up an ELMScan 327 OBD 2 to usb scanner off ebay fro 10-20 dollars and use your laptop to scan, it works perfect ! and cheaper than a brand new scanner

wollis1

lol i have a laptop, but i need to fix it. and i can get a new scanner for like $30 if need be

wollis1

update: damn t/c light is back on. FML

edit: been looking more in depth into this problem....... found some other threads, which led to this http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?p=461849

i know its an hhr forum, but the engines are the same. looks like its the intake and exhaust solenoids? maybe more

edit2: found another thread on a solstice forum.... http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ctuator-48080/

looked through it, and decided to then check my oil level. look like the guys at goodwrench put too much oil in my baby causing "VCT solenoid valve stuck open or continuous oil flow to piston chamber" most likely. how the hell can they honestly put too much oil in it?

Tcobalt421

iTrader: (14)

^yeah what the heck?

wollis1

hell, could even possibly be my intake was over oiled... i mean thats a longshot, but cant count it out

reaper89

iTrader: (2)

MAF sensor, check it. Ive send this in quite a few threads like this. I have forgotten to plug it back in before while reoiling my filter, and it through the TC light on along with the lurches in gear. never drove it like that but just putting it in R or D caused a nice jump.

Tcobalt421

iTrader: (14)

^exactly what mine does to it really slams into drive and reverse when the t/c light is on dammitt

wollis1

u have an intake too? and thanks reaper, ill check it out. what do i have to do, just clean it?

reaper89

iTrader: (2)

yea i got the injen CAI, get some MAF cleaner spray it and get it cleaned, then check the connections. Worst case scenario is the MAF is bad and youll have to replace if thats the problem

wollis1

thats the big question here lol. ill be taking the MAf sensor out and seeing if it and my TB need a cleaning. hoping its just the MAF tho, and not some other ****..... ive found various instances of this problem happening. Did u happen to check out those links i posted above?

reaper89

iTrader: (2)

from what i read in those threads, the maf sounds alot cheaper then the actuators. I dont have a 2.4, so those arent there. Getting the codes the car is throwing will definitely help you a little better though

wollis1

so, i took some contact cleaner, sprayed it around all the electrical connections in thje engine bay, and took the maf out and cleaned it( also with the contact cleaner). took the car out and it was driving fine. i even started beating the **** outta it and it took it like a champ. only think i notice now is the exhaust sounds a bit off sometimes, like the hard shifts may have messed with the downpipe or something..... either way, as it stands now im happy