Hatrickstu's Detailing How-To
Hatrickstu's Detailing How-To
Ok so I guess this is somewhat necessary since im getting alot of PM's and questions in threads. This How-To will not have many pics, but more or less the steps I use and the products I use on my car and my customers' cars. These will be steps to repair paint that is in need of some correction, and not just a typical wax job.
Step 1- Choose a good, high lather soap. Right now I am using Turbo Wax's car shampoo that can be found on their website here-
http://www.turbowax.com/cat/car-shampoo/
Step 2- Make sure you read the directions and use the correct amount. Mix in one bucket (preferrably a 5 gallon).
Get a good cotton wash mit from somewhere such as NAPA.
Also, have another bucket full of clean water only. You will use this bucket as a rinse bucket for the dirty mit once you wash off part of the car. The key in washing is to use the soapy mit, clean one surface, dip the mit in the clean bucket until you see little to no dirt on it, then redip in the soap bucket and do another portion of the car.
For example, here is a soap bucket I used after detail-
And here is the rinse bucket-
Step 3- Next you will clay the car. You need to be careful doing this and might want to expirement on the correct technique on a small portion of the car. Right now I am just using a Mequiars clay kit you can get at NAPA. The key to claying is to use LOTS of lubrication and fold the clay over often. If you run out of detailing spray you can just mix up soapy water in the bottle and use that (thats all I do anyways). You want to work in small areas until you get to be more experienced with the clay. In some spots you will feel the clay stick or hit gritty areas, this is good and the reason you are claying in the first place. Slowly rub the clay over and fold it over until the paint is smooth all over the car. Yes the car will look like **** at this point, its ok you will be washing it again.
Step 4- Rewash the car.
Step 5- Drying. You need three things for this to be done well. Shade, California Water Blade ( http://www.autogeek.net/calwatblad.html ), and good microfiber towels. Some local places will surely sell some, and there are different qualities. Typically, for what ive done the ones I have from Sam's Club actually do pretty damn well.
Step 6- Prepping the car. Make sure you get all the water off and get the areas you dont want wax on taped off. I prefer the green 3M painters tape.
Step 7- Compounding. Now you are getting into the harder, more time consuming part. I use a Porter Cable 7424 for all waxing steps, ( http://autogeek.net/po.html ). Now unless you have some serious clear damage, a regular cut compound such as Optimum Compound will be adequate ( http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-compound.html ). Depending on how deep you need to go you will start with something such as either an orange light cut pad ( http://www.autogeek.net/orlowpr55inp.html ) or a White CCS finishing pad ( http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-6inch-pads.html ) for less deep perfections. It is important to read up on compounding techniques and Autogeek has some good videos to teach you how ( http://autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html ). For most jobs I have to start with the orange pad, make two complete passes over the car, and then follow with the white pad for 2 more passes. This will take a good while and MUCH longer than polishing and sealing the car off. If done correctly your paint will show no clear coat scratches, swirls, or really any imperfections after this step. Remove all the compound after each pass with it with microfiber clothes. Take caution and think about what you are doing. You are taking off clear to get past the imperfections, so take your time and be patient.
Step 8- Polish. Polishing is what will bring your color and depth out for the most part. I choose between two products for this step, either Turbo Wax Swirl Remover ( http://www.turbowax.com/cat/swirl-remover/ ) or Optimum Polish ( http://www.autogeek.net/opt400.html ). I use a CCS grey pad for this step ( http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-6inch-pads.html ), and you should only have to make one pass. Again, watch the videos to help you with this step. Remove all polish with microfiber clothes. After this your paint is ready to be sealed and/or waxed. This step will also remove alot of "swirls" and light scratches if done correctly.
Step 9- Sealing/Waxing- Again, I choose between two products for this step, either Turbo Wax car wax ( http://www.turbowax.com/cat/car-wax/ ) or Poorboys EX Sealant ( http://www.autogeek.net/pbex16.html ). A CCS blue pad is used in this step ( http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-6inch-pads.html ). I let the product sit for around an hour before removing with microfibers clothes. I find the sealant lasts for around 2 months with alot of washing.
Step 10- Tire shine. I can not stress how important this is, its like cleaning the inside of your car without vacuuming. Mainly a user choice here, but you want something that will not sling.
It is important to note that there are a wide variety of products you can use for all these steps, and it is really just personal preference once you get into these good products. I will never argue with someone over which they like best once they start getting into the good stuff because they really all do a pretty good job. I listed the products I like using and have shown absolutely great results. Here are some pics of cars I have done all of which were in need of some serious work before I worked on them.
Step 1- Choose a good, high lather soap. Right now I am using Turbo Wax's car shampoo that can be found on their website here-
http://www.turbowax.com/cat/car-shampoo/
Step 2- Make sure you read the directions and use the correct amount. Mix in one bucket (preferrably a 5 gallon).
Get a good cotton wash mit from somewhere such as NAPA.
Also, have another bucket full of clean water only. You will use this bucket as a rinse bucket for the dirty mit once you wash off part of the car. The key in washing is to use the soapy mit, clean one surface, dip the mit in the clean bucket until you see little to no dirt on it, then redip in the soap bucket and do another portion of the car.
For example, here is a soap bucket I used after detail-
And here is the rinse bucket-
Step 3- Next you will clay the car. You need to be careful doing this and might want to expirement on the correct technique on a small portion of the car. Right now I am just using a Mequiars clay kit you can get at NAPA. The key to claying is to use LOTS of lubrication and fold the clay over often. If you run out of detailing spray you can just mix up soapy water in the bottle and use that (thats all I do anyways). You want to work in small areas until you get to be more experienced with the clay. In some spots you will feel the clay stick or hit gritty areas, this is good and the reason you are claying in the first place. Slowly rub the clay over and fold it over until the paint is smooth all over the car. Yes the car will look like **** at this point, its ok you will be washing it again.
Step 4- Rewash the car.
Step 5- Drying. You need three things for this to be done well. Shade, California Water Blade ( http://www.autogeek.net/calwatblad.html ), and good microfiber towels. Some local places will surely sell some, and there are different qualities. Typically, for what ive done the ones I have from Sam's Club actually do pretty damn well.
Step 6- Prepping the car. Make sure you get all the water off and get the areas you dont want wax on taped off. I prefer the green 3M painters tape.
Step 7- Compounding. Now you are getting into the harder, more time consuming part. I use a Porter Cable 7424 for all waxing steps, ( http://autogeek.net/po.html ). Now unless you have some serious clear damage, a regular cut compound such as Optimum Compound will be adequate ( http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-compound.html ). Depending on how deep you need to go you will start with something such as either an orange light cut pad ( http://www.autogeek.net/orlowpr55inp.html ) or a White CCS finishing pad ( http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-6inch-pads.html ) for less deep perfections. It is important to read up on compounding techniques and Autogeek has some good videos to teach you how ( http://autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html ). For most jobs I have to start with the orange pad, make two complete passes over the car, and then follow with the white pad for 2 more passes. This will take a good while and MUCH longer than polishing and sealing the car off. If done correctly your paint will show no clear coat scratches, swirls, or really any imperfections after this step. Remove all the compound after each pass with it with microfiber clothes. Take caution and think about what you are doing. You are taking off clear to get past the imperfections, so take your time and be patient.
Step 8- Polish. Polishing is what will bring your color and depth out for the most part. I choose between two products for this step, either Turbo Wax Swirl Remover ( http://www.turbowax.com/cat/swirl-remover/ ) or Optimum Polish ( http://www.autogeek.net/opt400.html ). I use a CCS grey pad for this step ( http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-6inch-pads.html ), and you should only have to make one pass. Again, watch the videos to help you with this step. Remove all polish with microfiber clothes. After this your paint is ready to be sealed and/or waxed. This step will also remove alot of "swirls" and light scratches if done correctly.
Step 9- Sealing/Waxing- Again, I choose between two products for this step, either Turbo Wax car wax ( http://www.turbowax.com/cat/car-wax/ ) or Poorboys EX Sealant ( http://www.autogeek.net/pbex16.html ). A CCS blue pad is used in this step ( http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-6inch-pads.html ). I let the product sit for around an hour before removing with microfibers clothes. I find the sealant lasts for around 2 months with alot of washing.
Step 10- Tire shine. I can not stress how important this is, its like cleaning the inside of your car without vacuuming. Mainly a user choice here, but you want something that will not sling.
It is important to note that there are a wide variety of products you can use for all these steps, and it is really just personal preference once you get into these good products. I will never argue with someone over which they like best once they start getting into the good stuff because they really all do a pretty good job. I listed the products I like using and have shown absolutely great results. Here are some pics of cars I have done all of which were in need of some serious work before I worked on them.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-01-07
Posts: 1,728
Likes: 0
From: Henderson, NV
Definitely sticky. Dude those cars look amazing!!! ******* flawless!!!
So when performing this process on your Cobalt, how long does it usually take you? Also, is there an outside temperature range that is preferred when doing this?
The whole cutting polish kinda scares me.
So when performing this process on your Cobalt, how long does it usually take you? Also, is there an outside temperature range that is preferred when doing this?
The whole cutting polish kinda scares me.
Definitely sticky. Dude those cars look amazing!!! ******* flawless!!!
So when performing this process on your Cobalt, how long does it usually take you? Also, is there an outside temperature range that is preferred when doing this?
The whole cutting polish kinda scares me.
So when performing this process on your Cobalt, how long does it usually take you? Also, is there an outside temperature range that is preferred when doing this?
The whole cutting polish kinda scares me.
all depends on which steps i have to take. its not cheap though 
thanks man
thanks man
Last edited by hatrickstu; Jun 11, 2008 at 09:47 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost