Ive been reading threads on "howto wax" and stuff... And waxing multiple times keeps coming up.. Does this help the car become more shiny or is it just to last longer?

and also ive heard mixed reviews of Turtle Wax ICE.... I have the paste and it seemed to work very nice on my laser blue balt. what do you guys/gals think of it?

 

you generally...wax twice with different types of wax and claybar..it...1. wash 2.claybar 3. wash 4. polishing compound out scratches 5. cleaner wax 6. paste wax

 

o god... so many steps ... haha ... can you link the products you recommend? thank you for clearing it up for me

 

STOP USING ICE WAX... that stuff is horrible!

/rant


But most "STEP" processes have you wax your car 3-4 times (cleaner wax, polish, wax, sealer)

 

well i hear good/great things about Turbo wax which is the ones hatrickstu uses and he's the detail guru but you need to order those since Turbo wax isnt a national distributor at local stores....i use local store products and i use Meguiars Clay bar kit, Meguiars Gold Class car soap or Eagle One Wet car soap, Meguiars Cleaner Wax (you get some with the clay bar kit), and Eagle One Paste Nanowax, both wax's are hand buff'd off with microfiber cloths....tho hatrickstu uses a buffer i think...and the Polish compound i use 3M...you can get all these at you local auto parts stores and these are the best i've found for use on my black cars...and i've tried many many different waxes

 

well i jsut got it because the guy at autozone was like
" it woukld work great on your dark blue car" haha

but is there a "kit" that i could buy ... so i know what the hell im doing? or a step by step.... i havent found any step by steps on here describing multiple stages of wax

 

No it doesn't work good on laser blue... I have a laser blue car!

Turbo wax is damn good ****!

 

nvm LamboW9 posted while i was posting haha.... thank you lambo.... ill look into that stuff. How long does it usually take you to do all that?

 

a full on detail for me and my black balt will take me about 8-10 hrs...and i do that the day before a show...for the interior don't use Armor all use...Meguiars Gold Class leather wipes on your leather and vinyl (dash) and such...works great and you can get it for like a buck cheaper at wal-mart then at an auto store

 

This is from a long time ago, but after a hand wash, clay, polish, Mother's Carnauba Cleaner wax, and then Meguiar's Gold Class liquid. It looked this good even close up.

 

does it really make that big of a difference to use more than one kind of wax?

What i was thinking of doing next is
1.) wash car
do i have to dry it?
2.) clay bar
3.) wash car
4.) dry car completely
5.) Wax one coat


what kind of wax should i use if i do one coaT?

also waht is carnuaba wax?

 

ok...detailed for you snypez....1. Wash car and does not need to be dried 2. Use clay bar with supplied lubricant to get off road contaminants 3. wash car to get off excess dirt leftover and DRY as best as you can (wax does not mix with water) 4. Polish out scratches with polishing compound 5. Wax car with cleaner wax (this prevents road contaminants from adhering to your car paint again) 6 Wax car with paste wax..... if you feel the need then you can also re-wash and dry again after your final waxing....i detailed in an earlier post all the brands specific to those that i found work the best and yes the brands for specific detailing parts make a BIG difference

 

im sorry for being a ******* haha.. i am jsut so confused on all this stuuf... thank you so much tho

 

no problem...i forgot to add...if your doing the full detail as i said..then the first wash should be with Dawn dish soap to strip all existing wax off your car....it works better for doing the claybar and adding all new wax

 

ok thank you. I have to get new soap too...ill use dawn dish soap the first wash
then ill use either eagle one or Meguiars Gold car soap for the second one

Ive heard that as well but most ppl say its bad for the paint... but im goign to do it anyway haha

 

you only use dawn on it because it strips the existing wax off...thats why they say its bad for the paint...cuz you shouldnt use it for a typical wash because your stripping the existing wax off which if not wax'd again will definitely wreak havoc on your paint with the UV rays and all that

 

o ok... yea the car wash soap i have now is from like 1980 ... it was just sitting in my dads garage. It doesn't foam at all even tho it says ultra lather formula....

 

Sub'd for later.

 

lmao...yea don't use anything thats old like Zip wax or turtle wax or anything....you can experiment as you have the money but the brands an products i've listed are proven an i can verify they are the best i've used.....tho you can experiment as you get the hang of detailing your car and i encourage...everyone has different opinions but this is my 2nd black car and black is the hardest to detail and my buddy uses the exact same products as i do now

remember hatrickstu has a full on detail for detail on detailing...lol...however the product brands will be different...but the method is the same

 

yea he does... I jsut couldnt follow it... not sure why... btu thank you for your help. Im going to the store today. gonna get myself a full detailign kit and experiment on technique and brands and stuff

 

yea....i highly recommend sticking with the brands i recommend on those specific products to start out...all that stuff is not cheap and you should know what your doing with a good brand/product before you experiment and use a different product that you may "think is better" but maybe you just used it differently that made the difference when if you used the product i recommend and use it the same way that you did the other product then it may be immensly better....plus its always nice to start with a tried an proven product/brand to give you a good base idea for how good it looks....btw your looking to spend about 80$ i'd say in product for all the stuff i listed..if you want a full product brand listing pm'd to you let me kno...i'll include everything i use down to the tire shine

 

gimme the list .... haha... If you have time that is...thank you so so so much for the help

 

Microfiber cloths-Autozone brand is fine as most are all the same
Terry Cloths-Any brand is fine just make sure its not really rough
Wash mitt-Something soft but not linty *Chenelle is BAD
Wash soap-Meguiars Gold Class or Eagle One Wet
Clay bar kit-Meguiars kit comes with their cleaner wax which is good and also their "showtime" lubricant
Cleaner Wax-Meguiars is fine
Paste wax-Eagle One Nanowax
Liquid wax-Eagle One Nanonwax -used for inbetween easier waxings
Glass Cleaner-Stoner's Invisible Glass
Tire Shine- Eagle one Gel with tire swipes...for high gloss you can use Meguiars Hot Shine gel but that slings so you need to be careful (i use that at shows when it just sits)
Wheel cleaner/wax-Eagle One Nanowax wheel wax or Mothers Mag/aluminum Polish
Interior wipes-Meguiars Gold Class Leather Wipes
Chamois-The Absorber ~best on the market
Polish-3M polishing compound~removes fine scratches and works GREATT

i pm'd you the list but i figured i'd put it in here for others as well....i think i got everything

i did a quick cap and thats just over 100$ in product i guesstimate...of course pricing depends an varies on where you get it

 

wow....

From what you can buy at an auto parts store, Mothers and Meguiars are both pretty decent.

If you want a good detail... you have to spend money on good stuff.

Turbo Wax has an entire "kit" of everything they sell pretty much, from wash to leather/vinyl cleaner, to the bug/ oxidation block (compared to a clay bar) for like $150 bucks!

But to get rid of scratches and swirls... there is no contest to using a machine for it... Porter Cable has a good 7" dual action buffer www.autogeek.com sells it for like 175 bucks...

using compounds on it that you can't match the outcome by hand....

I have been using 3M professional polishing and rubbing compounds, but I am moving over to Optimum (Hatrikstu's advice), and Poorboys EX sealant!

 

no doubt a buffer prolly works better but if you don't know what your doing with a buffer then you can cause some damage to your paint....hand polishing/waxing is some labor but also is safer if you don't know how to operate a buffer and you still get great results when you do it right